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gophers6

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Everything posted by gophers6

  1. I'm looking at Midwest Supply online at their Safale yeast (04, 05, 33.) It says if you pitch it directly without making a starter the wort must be over 68 degrees. When I use MrBeer yeast I use cold water to make sure the wort isn't to hot for pitching, and then put the fermenter in a 68 degree place and let it warm up. Can someone explain why it has to be over 68? Also they say to let the yeast sit on top 30 minutes before stirring.
  2. Amen to piplines. I've got 2 batches warm conditioning for 4 weeks that I'm not even tempted to rush because there's 4 other batches available for drinking.
  3. I've done some at 66 and they did fine. Most guys on this board say it's better to err on the low end of temp range than the high end.
  4. yankeedag wrote: just leave those bottles at room temp for another month... it should be better by then...heavey on the "better" part.. and some of the "should".. ok, I'll shut up now. The bad news is they've already been at room temp 4 weeks. The good news is it was the trub bottle. Nowhere to go but up from there.
  5. I just had my trub bottle tonite of the Basic Brown (standard nut brown plus Liberty hops.) Not real impressed. Kinda thin and cidery. Hopefully the other bottles will be better with age.
  6. What Yankee said. They condition better at room temp, but a week in the fridge really helps em clear up.
  7. Not an expert on this at all since I have only used MB yeast but I have a couple of thoughts. 1. If that common taste in our brews is from the yeast, would it be worse if they doubled the amount in the packet? 2. If the packet is barely enough, how come a brew like Jamaica Mon (2 cans + booster) is so good?
  8. Looking at the Northern Brewer cat. that came today. Is the yeast (for instance 04) the same size as if you ordered it from MrBeer? It's about a $1.50 cheaper at NB. Is it enough for 2 MRBeer batches?
  9. Anybody else ever notice on the back of the keg where the lines are they have 8.5 quarts on one side and 8.5 liters on the other as if quarts = liters? Typo by them on the keg.
  10. Probably not ideal but it would seem like the yeast would still be up to the job.
  11. Northern Brewer told me crushed grains can't be stored no matter how you seal them. I'll be curious how you turn out. It's not very practical for me to pay $7 shipping for $2 of crushed grain. And they're a real pain to crush with a rolling pin. Another thing I'm wondering is if they don't keep do they wreck the beer or just lose some of their pizzaz?
  12. If you dissolve it in warm water it goes pretty easy. Then you don't have to sanitize a blender.
  13. Are you using the whole lb? I only use 1/3 lb. Seems to really help the foam.
  14. I think you get more flavor from the hops in the MrBeer method if you skip the Muslin sack. They get mixed up throughout the fermenter.
  15. There's too many variables to answer this question. Things like ingredients and conditioning temps enter in. I kept Oktoberfest in the fridge 7 months and it was fine. MrBeer probably says 4 months to be on the conservative side.
  16. Ruz wrote: Thanks dpip75 I thought 4 cups of water sounded a little light if I was going to be boiling for 30 minutes, but as a newbie I wasn't going to argue with it. -Ruz Take it from someone like me who is all thumbs. If you can make tea, you can steep grains. It's that easy.
  17. Like the sheet in the background. Nice.
  18. You gotta pour it into a glass so you can admire it.
  19. Maybe I'm wrong, but I figure the leaf hops would be more likely to plug the spigot than the pellets. I've always stuck with pellets.
  20. dpip75 wrote: I just came across Munton's Kreamyx in my northern brewer catalog. It is a priming agent made with DME, dextrose, and a heading agent to aid head formation and retention. I haven't had problems with head, but it might be something to try out for shits and giggles. :laugh: 7 oz pack will prime 5 gallons $3.50 I was looking at that heading agent in their catalog too, but I'm skeptical of what might be in it. I don't want anything unnatural in my homebrew.
  21. StandupGuy wrote: SiriusDG wrote: Hold the phone... Ahhh, you are presuming LME comes in some predetermined size, like a can of something. Ohhhhh, I see...yeah, that would change everything. My LHBS sells LME out of a big drum, has a tap on it, you set your container on the scale, open the tap, and when you have the amount you need, close the tap. I take a tupperware bowl, so if I need 3 lbs Light LME, 1 lb Amber LME, and 1/2 lb Wheat LME for a given brew (just an example) it all goes in the same bowl. When I make the brew, all my LME for that beer is in one tupperware bowl, pre-measured and ready to go. Stick it in the microwave at low power for a minute to thin it up, then into the pot at knockout...couldn't be simpler. If I had to buy a 3 lb can of each, that would be WAYYYYYY different. David Wow, that's cool. I wish my LHBS had that... I wish I had a LHBS.
  22. more beer here wrote: I use mostly 16 oz bottles but I do use 10 oz and various Larger size bottles.I use the "standard" amount that MR. Beer calls for and I put the honey in the microwave for about 30 seconds to "thin it out" a little and I use a syringe to draw it up and put it into the bottles.I bought a infant syringe at my local drug store and it is perfect for this.You should try it out and see. So how much honey do you put in the syringe for a 16 oz bottle?
  23. FedoraDave wrote: This is very perplexing. I had a bottle of my Berry Pacific in the fridge. It had been in there a couple of days, I'm guessing. I opened it tonight and turned to toss the bottle cap in the trash and put the churchkey away and when I turned back to pour, there was a gusher of foam just pouring out of the bottle. I put it in the sink, and it kept erupting. I lost about half the bottle because of this foaming action. None of the other bottles did this, and I batch primed, so the carbonation should be uniform throughout. Unless it somehow got shaken up without my knowing it, but I can't see that happening, either. Weird. I had the same thing happen with my Snow Drift. 20 bottles with no problem, one bottle foamed over right after opening. Can't explain it.
  24. bigd wrote: :laugh: At any rate, the bitterness will not be the same as it would with less malt...agreed? When I punch my numbers into Beersmith, the more malt that I add with the same amount of hops, the IBUs go down. I'm just going off of this. I could be wrong and I am no expert by ANY means. Like I said, at any rate, the more malt you add to the same amount of hops will lower the bitterness. Hard to argue with BOM. Congrats.
  25. bigd wrote: You could probably make a nice mellow amber ale with the ADIPA with the Creamy Brown or Mellow Amber UMEs. I bet that would be a nice sessional beer without too high of IBUs. Maybe something like 1 can ADIPA 1 can UME of your choice 1/2 lb steeped grains (really doesn't matter which one since the color will be darker anyways) And you could also add some extra malt for higher ABV and more backbone. But I wouldn't add too much more malt unless adding a little more hops since you don't want it to be too cloying and sweet. I bet a nice Amber Ale with moderate IBUs would be good. The ADIPA sounds like a good HME to play with. I believe the IBUs are in the 50's. So, spit it in half it'd be in the mid to higher 20's. Rememeber, more malt you add to it, the IBUs will be lower since the malt will take away bitterness. Here we go again. This was debated about 6 months ago. I think the conclusion was the 58 IBU will still be in there no matter what else you add. But it won't seem as bitter because of the extra malt.
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