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Everything posted by gophers6

  1. Can't go wrong with Creamy Brown. Stuff is awesome. FD, I've thought that too that it'd be nice to know which hops & malts are in the HME's. I suppose from MrBeers side it would make it too easy to duplicate. Look under premium refills. IBU for ADIPA is 58.
  2. Midlands Mild recipe is good. That's just the BRA+Booster+1/4 cup molasses. I added 1/3 lb steeped carapils. Nice foam.
  3. Steeping grains add to foam and head retention. But wheat beers usually have better foam anyway. Probably why they're not used together alot.
  4. Hmmm. I've always gone 17-20 days in the fermenter. No complaints yet.
  5. That's the importance of a full pipeline. It makes it much easier to let your brews condition longer.
  6. Did you use the same method for washing and sanitizing the bottles?
  7. I just had a glass of Midlands Mild that I steeped 1/3 lb carapils into. Wonderful head and lacing.
  8. bpgreen wrote: How light are you looking to brew? If you mean light in color as well as in flavor and calories, you could probably do one of the lighter colored standard refills. They're about 3.5-3.7% ABV. They won't have a lot of calories and will be light bodied as well. The standard refills I have in mind are the Classic American Blonde Ale, High Country Canadian Draft, Cowboy Golden Lager, West Coast Pale Ale. If you make the standard refills as-is, they'll be pretty light. If you add anything to them, add something like rice syrup. You may want to let them condition at room temperature for 3-4 weeks to get the taste to mellow a bit. I've been wondering what the Stout standard refill would be like. Seems like a contadiction: "Light Stout"
  9. gophers6


    I guess I'm in the minority here with the WCP that came in the kit. Sure it was kinda thin. But damn it, I made beer! And you can make a lot better ones after you got the first brew under your belt.
  10. When it sloshes around some will come out the vents around the lid so be sure to put something under it to soak it up.
  11. Did you steep grains in all of them? Other posters have said Coopers tabs are a lot better than Muntons.
  12. BP, 99% agree that the standard refills aren't the greatest. But I think Midlands Mild, which is even more out of whack on adjuvants because of the molasses, is awesome. I did add 1/3 lb steeping grains, that probably helped.
  13. bpgreen wrote: I've been reading a distressingly large number of posts recently where people are brewing batches with ingredient lists like 1 HME, 1 booster, 2 cups of (sugar, brown sugar, honey, etc). I'm less critical of booster than many regulars are, but it's still an adjunct. The FAQs say that you should get at least 2/3 of you ABV from malt and no more than 1/3 from adjuncts. Note that they don't say 2/3 of the weight or 2/3 of the volume, but 2/3 of the ABV. I've been brewing for about a year, but I'm still brewing with extracts. If I start a batch with a standard refill, I use the booster since it's there, but other than that, all I ever add is 1/2 c honey. And I only add 1/2 c honey if I also add at least the equivalent of an additional can of UME. Recently, I've seen people posting recipes where the adjuncts not only exceed 1/3 of the ABV, but account for more of the ABV than the malt does. BP, wouldn't a standard MrBeer refill fall outside this 2/3, 1/3 guideline? Seems odd that their standard product would have too much adjunct.
  14. more beer here wrote: Here is a "first pour" photo of my "Cowboy Honey Lager" Here is the recipe: 1 can Cowboy Golden Lager HME 1 lb LME 2 cups Honey Crystals 1 packet Saaz Hops 2 grams Saflager s-23 yeast Nice honey flavor but not overpowering.Will be making this again real soon. Looks fantastic. I've got Cowboy Honey Wheat fermenting now. What the heck are honey crystals? Never heard of em.
  15. Ya, my first batch I stirred booster till my arm fell off.
  16. Mutsy wrote: Yup I know the book says "when we say clear we mean clear" thats about the only thing in the book I really disagree with. They will be cloudy at bottling. That, and mixing the booster into cold water.
  17. The standard refills are basically light beers, even though some have the color of a heavier beer.
  18. Rookie Brewman wrote: Thanks for the advice. I would like to try some DME and also some steeping grains. I live in a very rural area, and there aren't any brew shops around. Do you buy supplies online, and if so, who do you recomend? Northern Brewer .com is pretty good.
  19. Before I brew I write down on a different paper what I'm gonna do and bring that to the kitchen, not my official notebook.
  20. That's an awesome first brew. My 5th batch was the red + MA. It turned out fizzy like soda pop. Gotta tip my hat to you!
  21. I'm surprised I was able to figure out how to post on the forum, let alone all that other stuff. And my trusty notebook never goes near the kitchen during brewing.
  22. Ya need a decent flashlight. Move it around till you find a spot where you can see the top of the liquid. After about a day and a half you should see a layer of bubbles.
  23. I'll bet the bottles with the sludge in them will settle out and result in decent beer.
  24. Rookie Brewman wrote: I'm going to be brewing my second batch of beer with my Mr Beer kit, and would like to bump up the abv percentage. I was planning on using 1 UME, 1 HME, and a pack of booster. Is the booster the best way to add additional body and alcohol content, or are there some better options? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. I'm drinking Jamaica Mon right now that is HME + UME + Booster. It has a definite alcohol taste that is not what I'm looking for in a beer. If I were you I would maybe use 1/2 the pouch of booster with the 2 cans. That'd get you in the 5.3% range. Just my $.02.
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