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Everything posted by gophers6

  1. crazybrody wrote: If your interested in the tabs try the coopers tabs. It sounds to me like you used the muntons which some people have had some trouble with in the past. The coopers are bigger and you use one drop per 12 oz bottle or three for the 1 litre pet bottles. I have used them several times and when I dont batch prime I grab those. Thisis a picture of my beer carbed with the coopers tabs. And as for the floaties they will sink to the bottom of your bottles as well just give them a couple days in the fridge and pour gently and leave the last little bit with the sediment in the bottle. Can the tabs be broken in half if you're using 16 oz bottles?
  2. scott 31 wrote: Hey Ruz, I made this beer for my second batch with creamy dark UME and booster. Dark beers are my fav as well. Unfortunately, I opened the HME last and for lack of a better word- it looked and stuck to the side of the can like tar.I had already poured the UME and didn't have any more supplies to change to. So I scraped it out and tryed anyway. It mixed well and didn't clump so I thought I was fine.( I sat them both in hot water before opening but it didn't matter). Anyway, I bottled after 14 days, conditioned (warm) for 5 weeks,put in the fridge for a couple nights, and was heartbroken because it tasted medicinal and way off. I have made several other batches since with no probs. Hope yours turns out. I would like to know if it's worth making again. I always check the experation dates now! Brew on! So what was the expiration date?
  3. BeerConnoisseur wrote: I would recommend that the first few brews by a newcomer be in plastic. That way you can give the bottles a squeeze test when carbing. Nothing eases the fear of over or undercarbed beer as the feel of a tight bottle. Once I have priming down and are SURE, then I will go with all glass. I drink a lot of beer straight out of the bottle and plastic just does not feel right. :gulp: Just can't see drinking homebrew out of the bottle. You gotta pour it into a glass so you can admire it.
  4. I figured it was the pellet hops that didn't need the sack. That's all I've used, never used a sack, never had a problem. Yet.
  5. Carb/condition 3 weeks at 68. Cool condition 4 weeks at 58.
  6. That's a heck of an experiment BC. I have to say that even though I've primed every batch with table sugar, I've seen a lot of variability in carb results between batches and even between bottles in a batch.
  7. Only change was I steeped 1/3 lb carapils. So far the first 2 bottles were good, only the trub bottle was way strong. Never had that happen with other batches.
  8. Mr Beer says to seal up the hops and put them in the freezer.
  9. Just had my trub bottle of JM. Had a real strong alcohol taste, more like malt liquor.
  10. FedoraDave wrote: Well, that's that. My first foray into DME-only brewing is in the keg; Indy Cherry Wheat. It's got an OG of 1.070, so it's gonna have some kick when all is said and done! I'm gonna make sure I save a good amount of it for RibFest in July, especially if it turns out well. Updates as the situation warrants. Unless I missed it you haven't said yet what time we should be there for Ribfest.
  11. dpip75 wrote: I realize my profile pic of the templar knight may have been offensive, but I assure you I am not a follower. I just liked the picture. anyway I have changed my picture, but it will not change on my posts. Can someone help me? I've been gone for a week. Would you please post the picture again so I can see what everyone is talking about? I don't think it's fair that I didn't get a chance to be offended.
  12. Eddie wrote: gophers6 wrote: Whether it's cloudy or clear is not a good indicator of being ready to bottle. Mine are usually cloudy at bottling. It'll clear up during conditioning. gophers6, please tell me how you do your extended lagering. Since you said your lagers are still cloudy when you bottle is it safe to say you lager in the bottles rather than a secondary? I'm much interested to hear how that works out for you. I'm bottle lagering mine in the fridge for 2+ months on this one. I know a secondary would be better, but I don't have a proper vessel to put it in. I appreciate your insight into lager brewing. It's very helpful. Thanks. I don't have a secondary, just lager in bottles. My basement is 58 degrees now, works good.
  13. Time will tell but I wouldn't worry about it. You probably need a keen sense of taste to pick up the tannins that were released. I've got a glass thermometer that clips inside the pot, never thought about it breaking. Now you guys gave me something else to worry about!
  14. You could cover the fermenter with a blanket or put it in a large cooler to help keep the temp even.
  15. Whether it's cloudy or clear is not a good indicator of being ready to bottle. Mine are usually cloudy at bottling. It'll clear up during conditioning.
  16. If they were glass bottles and the necks deformed from the pressure I'd be very concerned. :laugh:
  17. BeerConnoisseur wrote: The aroma and a big part of the honey taste are in oils that will boil away. To test this out, take a mix of honey and water and boil it for about 10 minutes. Let it cool and then taste and smell the results. I have a Honey Wheat on my list of future brews. From what I have read on doing Fruit brews, I plan to add the honey when I transfer to secondary. Bill Nye the science guy (AKA BeerConnoisseur) is correct.
  18. tabasco wrote: gophers6 wrote: Wheat beers usually have better head retention. The corn sugar may have had nothing to do with it. Interesting. I got a wheat beer UME from LHBS that I'm going to boil some hops into .... should be interesting ... may add some honey .... Yesterday I got my Mr. Beer Canadian w/ Pale Export refill, and I got it going in the new fermenter Yeah, I'm a big fan of wheat+honey.
  19. A week is too short. I'm a big believer in fermenting 2-3 weeks. Doesn't hurt a thing to be in there that long.
  20. Welcome! Had great results using the Wheat HME + 3/4 cup honey + 3/4 pouch booster. Like Yankee said put the honey in after the other items. The reason for not using all the booster is to keep the malt/sugar ratio balanced.
  21. I buy spring water. For 90 cents/gallon I figure its not worth the risk of using my marginal quality tap water.
  22. Perception is everything. When I drink different beers in one setting the first one usually seems the best. I think the taste buds get conditioned to it, everything next seems off. Oh, and I think they put WCP in the kits cause it most closely resembles standard Bud and Miller.
  23. Pretty sure it's just simpler for Mr Beer to package all HME with yeast under the lid. That's why you get 2 with the premium kit. There's no downside to using your extra with the HME + UME.
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