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Everything posted by gophers6

  1. Wheat beers usually have better head retention. The corn sugar may have had nothing to do with it.
  2. I wouldn't worry yet. A lot of times you don't see anything for 2 days.
  3. This is why it's a good idea to put 2 gallons of water that your gonna use in the fridge ahead of time.
  4. I used the Mellow Amber UME with the Vienna Lager HME. It tasted OK but I was not happy with the color. Way too dark for Octoberfest. I think the Pale will be a better way to go. Brew On!!
  5. I don't put sugar in the last bottle until I see how full it gets. Then add a proportionate amount of sugar.
  6. Usually better to err on the cool side than too warm. You should be fine. I know it's hard to wait on the 1st batch but 2 weeks isn't really long enough to carb/condition. 4 weeks is more like it.
  7. Congrats. This one's on my "to do list." Did you add anything to the recipe?
  8. So how long before I can drink it?
  9. Not sure the Carapils did a whole lot for this one, fairly meager foam. I guess you'd have to have some with and without to compare.
  10. Teddie wrote: place bottle to lightly parted lips....raise bottom of bottle in upward away arching motion until liquid touchs lips...Allow liquid to enter mouth...When mouth receives liquid...Swallow...That step is very important...When thirst is quenched...Lower bottle...say AHHHHHHHHHH.... There's something wrong with a homebrewer drinking out of the bottle. You gotta pour it into a glass so you can admire it.
  11. jungerer wrote: gophers6 wrote: I hope/think you guys are wrong because I've got 2 batches conditioning now that I steeped with CaraPils. You should be okay. I've got three batches I'm drinking with steeped Carapils, and many more conditioning. My LHBS said they would be fine for steeping. Now you tell me. I just dumped 2 batches down the drain because I thought I wasn't supposed to steep with CaraPils. Just kidding. Actually I had a Midlands Mild for supper tonite that was steeped with carapils. Very tasty.
  12. Pretty sure carmel malt and crystal malt are the same thing. But Wondergut is saying not to steep with carapils which is what I've been doing for a few months.
  13. I hope/think you guys are wrong because I've got 2 batches conditioning now that I steeped with CaraPils.
  14. wondergut wrote: I've used 1/3 lb crystal 20 in some and 1/3 lb carapils in others This from Palmer: "Dextrin Malt 3 L Also known as American Carapils, this malt is used sparingly and contributes little color but enhances the mouthfeel and perceived body of the beer. A common amount for a five gallon batch is 1/2 lb. Dextrin malt has no diastatic power. It must be mashed; if steeped it will contribute a lot of unconverted starch and cause starch haze." I would also add (with credit to BigDave3124 and another poster here-I think SiriusDG) that adding unconverted starches can be an invitation to uninvited nasties. The Palmer citation is chapter 12.1 Hmm. I thought carapils was made specifically for steeping.
  15. I don't think there is a right or wrong answer to conditioning temps. It's more a matter of what your situation is in regard to temps in your house and fridge space. For example my basement is 60 degrees in winter and I can condition there indefinitely. In summer my coolest room is 78 degrees so I condition in fridge only.
  16. With Mr. Beer size batches you'll want 1/4 to 1/2 lb of grain. I've used 1/3 lb crystal 20 in some and 1/3 lb carapils in others. Some batches I've mixed 1/4 lb of each. They improve the foam without changing the flavor.
  17. Just got my order via UPS. It's 18 below here today and the cans feel like ice cubes. I'm wondering what effect freezing would have on the HME/UME and especially the yeast. I won't use them for a week so I won't know for sure if they froze. Anyone have experience with this?
  18. I noticed the instructions say to store your bottled beer in a cool dry place. My 1950's era beer fridge has a freezer on top inside that constantly drips water onto the contents of fridge. Since the beer is in sealed bottles I'm wondering why that would be a problem. Any thoughts?
  19. I almost always have floaters at bottling time. They will settle out during carbing and conditioning.
  20. Ignore what the directions say about going from cloudy to clear. That is not a good indicator that it's bottling time.
  21. Have a couple magazines handy. As the keg goes down put them under the back to tilt it a little. That way you don't leave much in the keg.
  22. yankeedag wrote: I guess you'd have to have one of each to do a side by side... Too much driving.
  23. SiriusDG wrote: Hey, good timing, I have been reading a lot lately, and as much as I wanted to ignore this part of it, it seems that may not be the best idea. Brewing Classic Styles really brings it out, as local water was such a big part of why certain beer style emerged out of certain regions. So while, Zephyrhills Spring Water, which is what I use, generally makes good beer...well, two things; First, it makes the beer that it makes, and if I make that same beer with some other water, I may very well get quite a different beer. And Second, if that water is not like the water of the region where the beer I am trying to make came from...well, I won't get that beer. So, does it really matter? I see two instances where "I use this water and my beer is okay" may not be good enough...first, if you are trying to hit a very specific style target, such as for competition. And second, if you need something very specific for flavor (whether true to some style or not) and your water is not balanced to bring that flavor out for you. In either case, you wont know what adjustments you need to make until you actually know what is already in your water...which is why I actually had the Zephyrhills water analysis pdf open on my desktop since last Friday, when I decided to seriously look at this. Since I know what beers I normally like to make, I am going to take their chart, and dig through Brewing Classic Styles and Joy of Homebrewing, and see if the numbers are generally in my favor or not; and if not, what I need to do. I will try to do that tonight and report back. Brew On! David I've often wondered how it works for a brewer with multiple sites. For example Bud has a brewery in New Hampshire and Missouri. Wouldn't the beer taste a little different from each because of the different water supply?
  24. Gallons of spring water are less than $1. Not worth taking a chance at ruining your beer if your tap is questionable. And don't use water that's been through reverse osmosis. It removes the good minerals.
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