Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

gophers6

Community Members
  • Content Count

    3,300
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Everything posted by gophers6

  1. This time of year I condition in the basement at 60. That solves the problem of having to take some out of the fridge to make room.
  2. I put my grains in the waxy bag that comes inside Cheerios boxes and then crush with a rolling pin. Doesn't work worth a crap. I poke holes in the bag before the grain cracks.
  3. jungerer wrote: gophers6 wrote: I asked that same question of 2 different online suppliers. They both told me that once specialty grains are cracked they have a 2 week shelf life no matter how you store them. (Northern Brewer & Austin HB Supply) If what you guys are saying works it would be a great thing for me as I have no store nearby and have to order everything and get nailed for shipping. It costs $7 to ship $1.50 of grain. If I could store it I could stock up. Please update if you have any more info. I'll let you know this weekend. Brew day is sunday, and my grains will have aged about a month and a half. Can you tell at brewing time if they've lost their pizzaz?
  4. I added Mellow Amber + 1 cup honey to the ENB. Very tasty!
  5. I asked that same question of 2 different online suppliers. They both told me that once specialty grains are cracked they have a 2 week shelf life no matter how you store them. (Northern Brewer & Austin HB Supply) If what you guys are saying works it would be a great thing for me as I have no store nearby and have to order everything and get nailed for shipping. It costs $7 to ship $1.50 of grain. If I could store it I could stock up. Please update if you have any more info.
  6. I've been using 1/2 liter plastic soda pop bottles. Been working good.
  7. JerseyBrewer wrote: yankeedag wrote: sure: 68~72* Then prior to drinking, (for at few days at reglular frige temps) Sorry yankeedag, I was not clear. I was looking for a particular temperature range for the conditioning stage (fridge). From what I understand the average temperature for a fridge should be between 35 and 38 degrees F. I am pretty far north and my garage temperature is between 40 and 45 degrees F, do you think I can condition in my garage during the winter months? That would be ideal. Just be sure it doesn't freeze out there.
  8. jungerer wrote: Kenny wrote: Would you please xplain how you steep .25lbs Crystal, .25Carapils with each MrB recipe. I measure out .25lbs of each, put them in a muslim sack. If I am using booster with the MrB recipe, I disolve that in the pot, bring it up to boil, turn off the heat, soak the grains for about 20 min. Bob the sack, like making tea, then take it out and bring the water back to boil. Continue on with the MrB recipe instructions. Usually after its back to boil thats when I'll go ahead and add the DME and get it past the hot break. That's exactly what I've been doing, except I use a Muslin sack. It's make out of a thin material like cheesecloth. Not sure what Muslim sacks are like. Must be a religious thing.
  9. Sounds like you might be reading too much. You dissolve the booster in lukewarm water, then boil, then remove from heat and add the cans and the hops. Stir it all up and then pour into the fermenter. Don't boil after adding the cans.
  10. CaliforniaKulak wrote: Well, my first batch of beer is ready to be bottled and I have a couple of questions. (1) Do I need to sanative my measuring spoons? If so do I wait for them to dry before dipping them into my sugar bowl of not? (2) Is it ok if the bottles are a little emptier than the instructions call for? My fermenter is at the 8 and not the requested 8.5 mark. 1) I sanitize my teaspoon and then wipe it with a clean paper towel. 2) I think I would fill the bottles to the prescribed level and then partially fill only the last one.
  11. I don't use a sack, never plugged the spigot. Gonna bottle my Snow Drift tonite so I probaby just jinxed myself.
  12. That's why I don't use the sack. I just mix the pellets into the wort before pouring into the keg. I would leave yours alone at this point.
  13. Never seen a table here but each can adds 2.3% ABV. Booster adds 1.4%
  14. I totally do not understand how Mr. Beer's flavor scale of malty/balanced/hoppy works in relation to IBU. I'm looking at their 180 recipes page. For instance Prince Ludwig Lager uses 2 HME's + Saez hops and has IBU of 40, and is called Balanced. Good Witch Red uses 1 HME + Cascade hops and has IBU of 11, yet is called Hoppy. I thought hops were used as bittering to balance the sweetness of malt. So if you have an IBU of 40, wouldn't that be hoppy compared to an IBU of 11?
  15. Yeah but, the deluxe refills for VL and ENB both use Mellow Amber. All I changed was add honey.
  16. The 2 batches I'm drinking now are: 1. Vienna Lager + Mellow Amber + Honey 2. Englishman's Nut Brown + Mellow Amber + Honey I swear I can't tell the difference. Is it because the additives are the same or are my tastebuds shot?
  17. That's been the only dissappointment for me in home breewing is the inconsistant carbing. Some batches are a little under carbed, some have poor head retention, some are fizzy like soda pop. Maybe it just goes with the territory. Seems like my favorite boughten beers are always carbed just right.
  18. Good catch VT, I didn't look close enough.
  19. Been looking at the 180 recipes and planning an order. I happened to notice both Riptide Red and Roses Rambling Red contain 2 cans + booster but are listed as 5.3%. Seems like they should be about 6.0%.
  20. Does anybody know what's in carbing tabs?
  21. gophers6

    honey

    I stirred 2/3 cup of honey into the wort after adding the can of BWA. I also only used 3/4 of the pouch of booster so as not to have too little malt percent wise. Turned out awesome.
  22. If you ferment too long (generally over 21 days) the yeast might get burned out and won't be able to process the priming sugar into CO2 for carbing.
  23. The cloudiness settles to the bottom of the bottles in a few days, supposedly loaded with B Vitamins.
  24. Anybody know what's in carbing tabs?
  25. JustEd wrote: Ummmmm,I don't want to sound stupid, but, other than the obvious(WCPA, and others), how do you know if you are making an ale or a lager?? Ale is fermented warm, Lager is fermented cold. Since Mr. Beer is fermented warm they are ales. I don't know why they have names like Cowboy Lager and Vienna Lager since they are not really lagers.
×
×
  • Create New...