Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

crazybrody

Community Members
  • Content Count

    2,056
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About crazybrody

  • Rank
    Brewmaster

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. This is a tough one. The reason being is that all the sugar you put into the beer gets fermented by the yeast leaving your beer dryer. Even if you wait and add it after primary fermentation the yeast will ferment the honey plus you have the risk of infection. If you heat honey at all it will lose most of the flavor you want even before it ferments. If you really want a honey flavor maybe try steeping some honey malt.
  2. Here is the product description right from the Mr. Beer online store Booster™ is made from corn syrup solids, and is ideally suited for use as a brewing adjunct. It provides a full and balanced range of both fermentable and unfermentable sugars that is designed to mimic the carbohydrate profile of all-malt wort, consisting of 8% glucose, 56% maltose, 16% maltotriose, and 20% dextrins. You can make the kits without booster but you will want add more malt. Either in the form of a can of LME from Mr. Beer or some DME from a homebrew shop.
  3. I got mine. It was totally unexpected but pleasant surprise in my mailbox. :banana:
  4. I was in the cheap ass club for a long time. Then I decided to try liquid, wyeast in particular. I have used liquid since. I love knowing that my yeast is healthy before I pitch with the swollen smack pack. I also think the liquid leaves less off flavors that take the dry yeast time to condition out. Thus making my beer drinkable in far less time.
  5. I love the list of pry offs. My favorites are Sam Adams, Sierra Nevada, and New belgium. I have never bought empty bottles. I always get the bottles with free beer in them. :laugh: It just takes some oxyclean free, a little hot water and some elbow grease to clean them.
  6. How long was it in the bottle? If you followed the directions then you'll be OK.
  7. Interesting I need to make a batch of this Swen. Its been a long time since I have made a Hard Lemonade.
  8. Carbing the beer should be done for two weeks after bottling at the temp that you fermented the beer at. If its still flat after that then you added too little priming sugar.
  9. Yes you can ferment in pretty much and vessel that can hold liquid. I have even heard of a few people that boil in their pot. Then cool pitch the yeast and just put the lid on top to ferment the beer. You would need a way for the co2 to vent. You could drill a hole and buy a grommet and airlock for about 3 dollars for both pieces. Or just cover it in foil. That will vent the co2 and keep the boogies out.
  10. Interesting. I have used white labs only once.
  11. You get all kinds of weird flavors at this point of fermentation. Relax, Don't worry have a homebrew.
  12. I only use tap water. I still make great beer I don't want to lug the water from the store to home, and add (I know its minimal) yet another cost to brewing. I guess I'm lucky to have decent tap water.
  13. Hallertauer would probably not fit well with the west coast Pale Ale style. But its your beer and you never know it might be killer. To keep it simple I would just boil them for 10 minutes in the the DME. If you want a super hop aroma from these then dry hop them.
  14. Check the temp of what your measuring and the hydrometer should have come with a correction scale. However, I dont think its going to mess you up by ten gravity points. You may also calibrate your hydrometer to see if it was made incorrect. Your hydrometer should say what temperature they calibrated it at. So just take some distilled water and get it to the temp that the hydrometer is calibrated at and it should read 1.000. Also I would leave the beer as it is and not add the water.
×
×
  • Create New...