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bpgreen last won the day on February 4 2020

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  1. Before using Beano, make sure you understand what it's doing, when you're using it, and how long it will do what it's doing. Beano has one of the enzymes that breaks down starches and complex sugars into sugars that are fermentable by yeast. If you use it before the boil, it will convert starches and unfermentable sugars into fermentable sugars. When you bring the wort to a certain temperature (I forget what it is, but it's below boiling and above temperatures at which yeast survive), the enzyme is deactivated and no more unfermentable sugars are converted to fermentable sugars. If you try to use it to restart a "stuck" fermentation, then you need to ensure that you denature the enzyme before you bottle. It converts a bunch of starches and unfermentable sugars right away. Then it continues to convert unfermentable sugars, very slowly, until they're all converted. Since this happens really slowly after a certain point, you won't notice a change in hydrometer reading. So you'll bottle. And if you're lucky, you'll get beer stains on your ceiling. If you're unlucky, you'll get bottle bombs.
  2. I've read that you should boil some water in it before using the first time to create a coating, but I just did a quick search and couldn't find a reference for that. One thing that you should be aware of is that you shouldn't use oxygen based cleaners or sanitizers (Oxiclean, One Step, etc) on aluminum pots.
  3. I'm going to disagree with the consensus on this for the simple reason that I've been successful in getting rid of the root beer smell from bottles. I never tried it with an LBK. I used to buy root beer in PET bottles and use them for beer back when I was bottling in PET. I preferred them to other soda bottles because they're amber. If you've already rinsed them in warm or hot water, you're probably out of luck. If not, rinse them in COLD water several times, then fill with cold water and a small amount of unscented Oxiclean and cap. Leave them for several days (watch for bulging and vent if necessary). Rinse in cold water again. Let them air dry for a few days. Repeat if necessary. You may need to do it a few times, but the smell will go away.
  4. Years ago, that recipe was called "Three Hearted Ale" but they changed the name to avoid a lawsuit from Bell's. Does that answer your question?
  5. I bought a kegerator some time back. For a while I was still bottling some batches, and until I got enough kegs, I'd bottle the last bits of kegs to free them up. At some point, I kind of forgot about my bottles. I'm now working through beer that was bottled in 2012 and 2013. A lot of it is over carbonated, but it's all ok (although I see that my tastes have changed over the years).
  6. I don't post here often anymore. I usually only post when I see somebody trying something that can be problematic. I think this qualifies. I posted on this topic earlier. Rick also posted (earlier) with similar information. Nevertheless, you persisted. Please stop this. You're not propagating yeast from your bottles. There was no viable yeast in those bottles. There are beers that are naturally carbonated and have the yeast they were brewed with in the bottles. There are also beers that are pasteurized after brewing and then naturally carbonated with a different yeast. This beer is not either of those. If you want to try to brew a beer with the yeast from a naturally carbonated beer, it can be done. But to do it, you need to use a beer that is naturally carbonated. I've done it as a learning experience a couple of times, but when I did it, I always checked to make sure that the beer I was using was naturally carbonated with the yeast that was used to ferment it and that it was not a yeast that was otherwise readily available. Why bottle harvest a Chico strain (US-05, Wy056, WLP001), for example (and there are beers that are naturally carbonated with the Chico strain). Don't get me wrong. I'm not trying to dissuade you from experimenting and learning new techniques. I'm just trying to guide you to doing so in a way that can lead to success. I've bottle harvested yeast from Red Tail Ale and from Rogue. I only brewed a few batches from each. I did it mostly to prove that it could be done. I harvested from Red Tail Ale as a learning experience. When I harvested from Rogue, the PacMan strain wasn't readily available, so bottle harvesting was about the only way to get it. There are lists available that will tell you what beers are naturally carbonated, and which of those are carbonated with the yeasts that were used to ferment them. I know they exist, because I found them when I was experimenting with that. I'll leave it to you to find more current lists, because I'm no longer interested in doing this. Find one of these lists. Get a few bottles of one of these beers. Try this same experiment with one of these. I'd suggest using at least 3 bottles. More is better, but IIRC, I was successful using 3. Sanitation is even more important when harvesting yeast than the brewing. Sterilize what you can and sanitize the rest. If you want to see the difference in harvesting yeast from a naturally carbonated beer and a beer with dregs, but no viable yeast, try harvesting some yeast from some beers you brewed and bottled, adding some sugar at bottling time for carbonation. Watch what happens when you add the live yeast from 2-3 of your beers to some wort and let it sit a few days and compare that with the (in)activity of the wort where you added the dregs from the Guinness wheat bottles. That's the difference between live yeast and dead yeast.
  7. You're wasting your time. At least, you're wasting your time if you're trying to use the Guinness yeast. If you're trying to brew a wild yeast beer, you're fine. Any fermentation you're getting in the starters is from wild yeast and bacteria in the air. Guinness used to naturally ferment their beers, but they stopped doing that years ago, and they now pasteurize and force carbonate all of their beers. Any dregs you collect will have no viable yeast. There are beers that are naturally carbonated, and I've successfully bottle harvested yeast before, but if you're trying to harvest from a pasteurized beer, you won't get any viable yeast.
  8. If I can be blunt, this is not a product design deficiency. This is a process deficiency. ON YOUR PART. You either bottled before fermentation was finished or you added more sugar than was necessary to carbonate the beer. If you want the bottles to stop bulging, you need to stop over carbonating. It's that simple.
  9. Plunk the magic twanger, froggy.
  10. I apologize for my previous post. I was trying to be humorous, but I should probably pay more attention to my daughter, who often says, "Dad, you're just not funny." I was unnecessarily snarky. I've never tried (or wanted to try) to clone Miller, either. I just thought it was pretty common knowledge that they used hop extracts instead of hops. What I should have posted was something along the lines of: Miller uses a hop extract (different from hop oils) that has had the compounds that react with sunlight to produce the skunk smell removed. I thought that was common knowledge, but it seems that it isn't as well known as I thought. Here are some links that will explain that (links without the lmgtfy snarkiness)
  11. For those of you who are new to the internet. There's something known as a search engine. Let me google that for you. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=miller+hops+skunk As an aside: Seriously? You didn't know this?
  12. There's a Rubbermaid container (maybe a 2 qt container) with a lid that is the exact same size as the LBK lid. At least that was the case for the LBK ca 2009. There are also containers of nuts (Planters and Kirkland) that are close, if not exact, fits.
  13. You're joking, right? Or you're confusing Nottingham with Windsor. Nottingham ferments even more cleanly than US-05 (there is no S-05). And it does well at even lower temperatures. For a west coast style IPA or APA, I'd use Nottingham over US-05 any day (unless temperatures are above 65). The second one is a package of Munton's yeast. It's a general purpose yeast, like S-33 or Cooper's.
  14. It's over carbonated. Remove the co2 connector from it. Bleed off the excess using the release valve if it's a ball lock or a pin lock with a ball lock lid. Or just pour over carbonated beers until it goes down. Once it calms down, reconnect the co2.
  15. I don't post here often, but I think you're making a grave mistake. After I typed that, I realized that it could be literally true. Do a google search on something like malt extract bulging can. If the can is bulging, even a little bit, you could get botulism poisoning. If you boiled it for 5 minutes, the toxins will be destroyed but spores can still be alive. And you probably didn't boil it for 5 minutes. Botulism is potentially fatal. DON'T MESS AROUND! If there was enough pressure that some of it leaked out, it's almost certainly tainted. Never use any canned goods (not just Mr Beer, but ANY canned goods) that are bulging or dented at seams. Also, you mentioned that the date appeared to be altered. Did you buy this from Mr Beer directly, or did you buy it from some other source? I've read that there are Mr Beer cans with altered "Best By" dates being sold on Amazon by third party vendors. Please do yourself a favor and dump this batch. If you bought it from Mr Beer, contact their customer support. They may replace it for you even though you've already started the batch. If you bought it from Amazon, take a picture of the altered date and send it to them and ask for a refund. I'm not sure if it will work since you've opened the can, but it's worth a shot. Even if you don't get your money back, brewing and drinking this beer could cost you much more than throwing it out would. It's possible that you can brew the batch and not have any ill effects, but it's really not worth the risk. You do realize that that old Jack Benny sketch where a guy pulls a gun on him and says, "Your money or your life," followed by Jack stroking his chin and saying, "I'm thinking, I'm thinking" was intended as humor and not advice, right? I'm about as cheap as they come, but I once bought a bulk order of canned extract and threw out more than a hundred pounds of extract rather than take the risk of poisoning. The vendor refunded the money, but I would have thrown it out, anyway. And they didn't make me return the damaged cans, so I could have used them, but it wasn't worth the risk. Here's a link to an article about bulging cans. It's about food cans, but the concept is the same, since it's something you're consuming. http://www.livestrong.com/article/432937-what-should-you-do-with-a-can-of-food-that-is-bulging-out/
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