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mxstar21

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About mxstar21

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  1. "Header75" post=291842 said:What is a good price for a wort chiller? Thanx. What kind? Counter-flow or immersion? Copper is pricey these days... Pretty easy to make your own, but plate chillers are pretty decently priced. Just harder to clean.
  2. Maybe added too much sugar, need more details to diagnosis.
  3. "alb" post=291726 said:That unit will not force carb, it's only for dispensing. The fittings will allow you to hook up to a large CO2 tank to force carb if you wish, but those 16gm CO2 cartridges won't do it. When force carbing, you are forcing CO2 directly into solution, which can happen as fast as your liquid can absorb it, largely dependent on CO2 flow rate and the temperature of the liquid. Some prefer this approach for its speed and that it doesn't leave any sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Natural carbonation (which I prefer) is cheap and easy but takes longer because you are waiting for the yeast beasts to produce CO2 as a product of fermenting the small amount of sugar added at bottling or kegging. When your pipeline is full, you'll hardly even notice the time it takes to carb naturally, because you'll be drinking stuff that's already conditioned. You can force-carb with that setup if you buy additional equipment. It is so much better in my opinion to keg beer, and force carbonate. It is so much easier to regulate CO2 levels, and the Blichmann beer gun makes bottling easy.
  4. "mashani" post=291706 said:No, that's not what I intended. Your original quote was "If it is infected, it would look really bad, like a big mold farm, smell really bad and taste really bad." All that I am arguing is that "unexpected, bad results" is relative to the eye of the beholder. If you can separate the "unexpected" from the "bad", and also separate each of those things above into different possible things which could happen that do not necessary have direct correlation then we will be on the same page. IE one of my brett infected beers looked ABSOLUTLY HIDIOUS. It had what looked like a giant eyeball staring at you from out of the fermenter surrounded by freaky #*$$ (I posted pics of it here in various places).. But it didn't smell bad, it smelled like pinapple and touch of wet hay/barn like funk. (I suppose some people would think wet hay smelled bad, but I do not). So, unexpected yes, bad no. It tasted great, the pinapple complemented the tropical hops I used in it, and unexpected funk wasn't over the top, it was much less strong then in many commercial brett beers I've consumed and became a nice background note in the final product. Was it what I intended to brew? No. Did it look hideous? Yes. Did it taste or smell bad? No. Did I drink it? Yes, happily. EDIT: I've had 4 different beers infected over the last 2 years, due to this same wild yeast I believe, it's a summer thing in my neighborhood apparently - never had one spring, summer, or fall, only summer when the windows are open. All of them have turned out anywhere from decent to excellent anyways. I guess my problem is that I brew style, so if if something doesn't turn out like I expect, I would consider it an infection and would be upset. Doesn't mean the batch is bad, just means something went unplanned. I think we are on the same page, just what I typed may not have been what I what I was trying to say. I didn't mean to say an infection had to incorporate all: taste, smell, look, etc bad. If you are getting wild yeasts, something in your brewing program is wrong in my opinion. It may make some neat beers, but I like to know what I am making and why it is getting funky.
  5. "Brian1179" post=291660 said:how about star-san? thats what i use and i love it :banana: :banana: The OP is looking for stuff you can find at the local store, and not the LHBS. Star-San is awesome, but you will probably only find it at the LHBS. I would go with bleach, but rinse it really well!
  6. "mashani" post=291496 said:Tastes bad, smells bad is one thing. But this isn't necessarily the case. "Not what you intended in making" isn't a reason to dump your beer unless you cant RDWHAHB. Tell Yazoo that "Fortuitous" (which was an accident) was a bad beer. They bottled it. They sold it. It was awesome. All of my brett infections made more of a funky beer then a truly sour beer. It's lacto that makes a sour beer. My unintentionally brett infected beers were not sour at all. Just had funky pineapple aroma/flavor. Which was actually kind of cool, especially in my IPA even though it wasn't what I intended. I enjoyed drinking those beers. I'd actually brew them again if I could. I am confused, are you quoting me saying to dump it? I told the guy to let his beer sit and keep it. I never said to dump it. I get it you may have an off chance an unexpected infection turns out good beer, but for the most part when you get an infection in your beer you will know it pretty fast from the unexpected, bad results.
  7. "mashani" post=291424 said:The only infection that is guaranteed to destroy your beer is Acetobacter, as it turns your beer into vinegar and the stronger the beer the worse it will get because it actually eats your alcohol. Anything else, it could be ok. You can go to any beverage store and buy infected beers. Many traditional styles of beer are infected beer. Berliner weiss, Flemish red, lambic, geuze, some saisons, some bier de garde, traditional old ales, and some modern brett infected IPAs and the like as well done on purpose or even by accident by modern breweries, and then bottled anyways. Until only a bit more then a century ago if anyone brewed anything BUT infected beer they were lucky. Nobody even know what yeast was. Yeast was just something that *infected* the beer along with other things. (yes yeast is an infection too, it's just the one we want). I've made a handful of unintentionally brett infected beer and they all were good. Other beer infecting organisms have "limits" and as long as the yeast got a strong foothold, it's quite possible your beer will be ok. The visible signs of infections by anything but the yeast we use tend to only appear with enough oxygen exposure. So if you bottle in 2 weeks you might not even notice it, except for something "weird" that happens after its bottle, IE it gets a bit overcarbed, maybe a touch twangy or tart or gets some strange flavor like tart citrus or pinapple or wet hay or something else that doesn't belong in it. But that doesn't necessarily make them undrinkable, sometimes it's actually really nice. You are much more likely to notice it visibly if you leave your beer in the LBK for 3+ weeks or rack it to a secondary. The stuff you see visibly is not the actual infection, it's simply a "cap" that the organism makes to protect the wort from oxygen. Nothing that can infect your beer can hurt you as long as your beer actually fermented to 2%+ abv. I understand there are beers that are "intentionally infected",but if you get a sour beer when you are not planning on making one, that is an infection, not a special beer. You add Brett yeast to get a sour beer. A beer can turn out well if it is infected, but its still infected, and looks bad, smells bad, or tastes weird if that is not what you were planning on making.
  8. "mashani" post=291253 said: "mxstar21" post=291204 said:Probably not an infection. If it is infected, it would look really bad, like a big mold farm, smell really bad and taste really bad. None of that is necessarily true. But it doesn't matter, if it tastes fine it's still beer, regardless of if it's infected. Knock on wood I haven't yet experienced an infection, but if it doesn't look bad, smell bad, or taste bad; how else who you be able to tell your beer is infected? Maybe I worded it wrong in that it only needs one of the following (bad taste, bad smell, bad look), but usually all three are hand in hand from my research. Again, maybe I am way off since I haven't experienced an infection yet.
  9. Probably not an infection. If it is infected, it would look really bad, like a big mold farm, smell really bad and taste really bad. If its infected, you will know...... Quit tapping your keg and let it ferment!!! :banana:
  10. I am with FedoraDave on this one. Mix them up in the mash, and stir it is how I do all of the flaked grains.
  11. Do it up with Creamy Brown UME and a 1/2-1 cup brown sugar and it is amazing! Use White Labs or WYEAST Londaon Ale yeast for an even better beer. One of my favorites.
  12. haerbob3 wrote: I would favor DME over the booster. No matter what you add you will change the flavor somewhat. You could always try a yeast strain that has a higher alcohol tolerance to get that bit more ABV Make sure your read and understand 'Malt To Adjunct Ratios' and the other topics post the help you get a good start. Just remember DME and Booster aren't intended to be the same. Booster is basically sugar, where DME is malt extract, and you use less DME than LME because DME is more concentrated.
  13. Growlers aren't designed for carbonating. They are for holding a already carbonated beverage for a few days to a week. You may be able to pull it off using them, but IMO, I wouldn't risk the cost and time to bottle in growlers.
  14. Not sure where to find passion fruit though. I have been in Hawaii for about 4 years, and still haven't found it at the grocery store.
  15. alb wrote: There's a brewpub in Hawaii that makes passionfruit beer. It's not a wheat beer. Anyway I was thinking of using the "Bill's Brew" recipe and just adding passionfruit juice, but I don't know how much. Passionfruit juice isn't sweet, it's very tart. Not like lemons but kind of mango-ey/citrusy. Not like a can of fruit in heavy syrup. Any ideas how to do it, when to add it, and how much? Actually it is a wheat beer. It is called Wailua Wheat made by Kona Brewing Company. I would add it to the secondary to get the fruit flavor to shine through. See it here.
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