Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

Neldred

Community Members
  • Content Count

    122
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Neldred

  1. Belgian candi sugar is an invert sugar, and it's usually used for adding a subtle rummy type flavor to the fermentation and increasing alcohol. It's not just boiled sugar, you have to boil sugar with ascorbic acid or cream of tar tar for at least 30 minutes. But I'm not sure I would use that for batch conditioning, it would be a big waste of time. Just use table sugar, corn sugar, or DME for batch conditioning. The very quick boiling is just to sterilize. Here is a good thread to read: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f37/priming-lme-corn-sugar-17069/
  2. Davjohn wrote: Dumb question, but isn't that what the muslin sacks are for? Pureed fruit will go right through a muslin sack or nylon sack. I would just rack to a secondary MB fermenter or carboy.
  3. If you want to steep you should read this http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/can-only-certain-grains-steeped-103379/
  4. Steeping grains in combination with extract has won countless awards in beer competitions. Some guys who have been brewing for 15+ years that I talk to say that they have tried to make big name craft brew clones and all grain is not as close many times as extract with steeping. Most longtime brewers recommend this as a good intermediate step between all extract no boil kits and full all grain. I personally just got all the gear to do that and move up to 5 gallon batches so I'm excited to start moving in that direction. I'm going to do an Anchor Steam and Pilsner Urquell clone first.
  5. Again, I didn't add any hops, and the head amount and head retention on my WM is A++ perfect. It's been that way since week 2 of bottle conditioning.
  6. My first batch was a Witty Monk. It's quite good (after a timely bottle conditioning), but it is very sweet. I wish I had utilized boiling hops in the recipe to balance it (I only used dry hopping which isn't going to do anything for head retention based on my research). I didn't know any better at the time. 7 minutes in itself isn't going to do a lot for hop bitterness (and bitter is a strong finite word depending on how you do things). I would recommend doing an hour boil, with less hops in general, than just 7 minutes of any amount of hops just by itself. Unless you like extremely malty beers, in that case just leave it alone completely and don't waste your money because there is already hops in the HME. If you use some simple noble hops, like Saaz, Styrian Golding, Fuggles (and I consider it noble->) East Kent Goldings then things will be pleasant and balanced. In a 2.13 gallon batch, use about half an ounce of hops and boil along 1 can of UME, or about a pound of DME (anything not hopped). It depends on what you want your ABV to be, you can look on one of the many beer calculators to pin it down precisely. .5 oz (depending on type and alpha acid, the noble types are generally more mellow) will take the IBU to approx 15-25 IBU which is still quite malty.
  7. I think with the simple one HME and booster, it tastes decent. Letting it condition in the bottle about 5-6 weeks @ room temp really goes a long way (time is your friend as a home brewer). The off flavors definitely mellow in general when you wait. The remaining yeast in the bottle will gobble off flavors. I still have some of my first batches in bottles which are now about 14 weeks old, and they taste really nice. Like the others here said, UME really helps, more malt means more quality in my mind. Quality Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast also is a big upgrade from the stock dry yeast to my taste buds. Bittering and finishing hops can add more complexity brew and balance the sweet taste of the malt.
  8. The only difference between and Ale and a Lager is the yeast. Mr. Beer sells a true Lager because they offer both dry and wet Lager yeast. Lagers are less forgiving and more complicated to make than an Ale because you have to ferment at a lower than room temperature (and higher than a regular fridge temp, meaning you either have to have a special fridge or put your fridge higher). If you live in cold areas and your basement is around 50 F then you can get away with it, but if you get a hot snap it could ruin the beer.
  9. I'm doing a batch right now with 1 St. Patricks (added after boil) 2 cans creamy brown UME (boiled with one, added 1 after boil) 1/3 oz (9 grams) Northern Brewer hops (hour boil) 1/3 oz (9 grams) Glacier hops (10 min boil) Liquid MB/Wyeast "stout" type OG @ 60F 1.058 It definitely smells and tastes much sweeter than Guiness even with the hops I've added, so we'll see after it bottle conditions for a few weeks or more to see if it comes together.
  10. Pilsner Urquell boils for 2 hours!!
  11. mcgrewc wrote: A rule of thumb goes like this. 30 min+ bittering 15 min or less flavor 5 min or dry hopping aroma +1 Also, make sure you add any and all hopped malt after the boil is over.
  12. esheppy wrote: Yes, that is based on regular table sugar, but it has been generally acknowledged here that Mr. Beer suggested amounts are on the high side, and I think that the difference will actually put you in a pretty good spot. +1 I use about 75% the recommended MB amount and the head amount turns out perfect.
  13. I've got 5 groups of bottles conditioning right now (although the older ones are almost gone). In the fermenter right now is 1. Stout (St.Patricks, 2 cans CB UME, Northern Brewer bittering and Clacier finishing hops) 2. Hybrid high ABV Amber (1 can Vienna Octoberfest, 1 can West Coast PA, 2 cans Light UME, 1 lb clear Candi sugar, 1 can Oregon Figs, hallertau bittering, fuggle and saaz finishing)
  14. Thanks. The boil for the hops were short, with a small amount so there isn't much hop influnce, probably around 15 IBU. Maybe it just needs to condition a bit.
  15. This batch had 1 can Whispering Wheat Weizen 1 can Golden Wheat UME 1 can Mellow Amber Argentine & Cascade hops (partial boil, partial dry) With the MB/Wyeast liquid Wheat yeast So with all these wheat-y ingredients and the right yeast, I expected the typical lemony/sour (but pleasing) taste that it is supposed bring, but it's just not there. I fermented @ 71-72 degrees for 3.5 weeks. Batch conditioned, bottled, and tasted after 1 week. It's not a bad tasting beer, but just tastes like a plain light amber ale. Is it just because the beer is still green?
  16. If you don't have a bottling bucket, then I recommend against batch priming in the MB fermenter. You definitely need to get the beer away from the sediment on the bottom and you don't want that reintroduced back into the beer, which is probably what will happen if you try to batch prime in the MB 'keg'. Better to put the appropriate amount of sugar in each bottle individually. The first 3 batches I did, I didn't sterilize the sugar in boiling water, and they still came out without any problems, but not I batch prime and sterilize just in case. It's so much easier than doing individual bottles.
  17. It's more of a question about the future, more than what is happening at this moment. I've got a HUGE beer in the fermenter, it's only been 11 days, I've left lesser ABV's in for 30 days and they've been great. This one is 11.6%. I think that a secondary would be good for clarifying the beer, but if it's not a big difference to putting it in the bottle, then I'm not worried about it. I'll just bottle when the hydrometer says to, and leave it in the bottle for a couple months.
  18. Thanks DRock, that got it much closer to 21 IBU. I put each HME to 1 oz for 5 minutes, is that correct?
  19. First, thanks for the QBrew recipe calculator, it's great, and nice to see a calculator with MB ingredients. I have a question about equating IBU's, for the values of the MB hopped extract. In this last batch I got a little crazy, and combined a Vienna Lager HME, a West Coast HME (love them both!), two cans of light MB unhopped extract, a can of Oregon Figs, and 1 pound of clear candi sugar. Boil was 1.5 gallon for one hour (boil off was about .5 gallons). So it should come in right around 11.6% (I'll need to bottle condition this guy for a long time!!). In the Q brew I first put the two hopped malts in the malt section and it didn't add any IBUs. So I took them out of there and I put them under the hops section. Just with those two alone (there were also 3 other hop types at various boil lengths) come to 41 IBU (again, without the other hops added to Qbrew). On the MB website, the two only add up to 23 IBU (they were added after the boil was over since that will produce lighter beer and MB says not to boil the hopped extract since it will mess with the hops). 10 IBU for the WCPA, and 13 for the Vienna. Also, I noticed that none of the Oregon fruits are in the malt or misc list, I only know the final AVB based on the MB 1% estimate.
  20. First, thanks for the QBrew recipe calculator, it's great, and nice to see a calculator with MB ingredients. I have a question about equating IBU's, for the values of the MB hopped extract. In this last batch I got a little crazy, and combined a Vienna Lager HME, a West Coast HME (love them both!), two cans of light MB unhopped extract, a can of Oregon Figs, and 1 pound of clear candi sugar. Boil was 1.5 gallon for one hour (boil off was about .5 gallons). So it should come in right around 11.6% (I'll need to bottle condition this guy for a long time!!). In the Q brew I first put the two hopped malts in the malt section and it didn't add any IBUs. So I took them out of there and I put them under the hops section. Just with those two alone (there were also 3 other hop types at various boil lengths) come to 41 IBU (again, without the other hops added to Qbrew). On the MB website, the two only add up to 23 IBU (they were added after the boil was over since that will produce lighter beer and MB says not to boil the hopped extract since it will mess with the hops). 10 IBU for the WCPA, and 13 for the Vienna. Also, I noticed that none of the Oregon fruits are in the malt or misc list, I only know the final AVB based on the MB 1% estimate.
  21. I couldn't find this on the forum or on a google search... Is there a chart or description somewhere of the flavor properties (and or their appropriate style usage) and SMR/color for specialty steeping grains? For instance, which grain(s) will add flavor and complexity to a pale ale with extra light pilsen extract as a base (but not add color)? Thanks in advance.
  22. crazybrody wrote: I have transferred to a secondary before. It worked fine no infections or anything. Just be careful not to splash and aerate the beer. I also feel that its not really necessary to rack to a secondary just an extra step to cause problems. Do you think that a 8.5%-11% would be ok only conditioning in the bottle? I've read that all the Belgian beers get put in the secondary for a long time and then re-yeasted for bottling (which adds to more even more complex flavors).
  23. I haven't gotten to the point of steeping yet (but am ready on the next batch or so and have been reading non stop for weeks), but for a 5 gallon batch from my research it only seems to require a total of 1-2 lbs of specialty grain. That amount would probably be ok for a 2 gallon batch, but it might be overkill.
  24. I always read 'dont ever open the lid for anything', but I'm brewing a really big 5 fermentable right now, and it's going to need to go to a secondary I think. I'd like to use an auto siphon to pump it to the secondary. Do you guy think this would be a problem, it probably will only take less than 60 seconds to get the entire 2 gallons out of the MB fermenter. Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...