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About rniles

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    Brewmaster in Training

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  1. So do you think you would prefer Saaz or Hallertauer? I've done Hallertau and Tettnangers but not Saaz in a hefe. (wasn't a fan of the tettnangers but it was ok.)
  2. The part that I don't get is that I've been doing Shift-F5 ever since I can remember ...and all this time I thought it was working ...I can't recall drinking while IE'ing - but maybe IE caused me to black out. Thanks for the lesson GWCR wrote: rniles wrote: I stand corrected. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306832/en-us GWCR wrote: rniles wrote: Hold down the shift key while clicking "reload" (or F5) Actually, it is ctrl f5 to do a full refresh of the page in IE, not shift f5. It's all good. I actually had to teach that one to the CTO at my company too!
  3. kedogn wrote: No sir. Here is what it actually reads: This is based on a recipe with a 1.053 OG, using 1 pkg of Wyeast 1056 with a package date of 6/15/2011. Yeast Cells Needed : 370.2 Billion Yeast Cells Without Starter 85.3 Billion Recommended Starter If Using Liquid Yeast Yeast Packs to Use if No Starter : 5 pkgs Yeast Packs with Starter : 2 pkgs Recommended Starter Size : 3.94 qt I'm curious ...what amount do you have for your equipment and batch size?
  4. Edd1619 wrote: So as stated in a reply to this post (btw, thanks for the suggestion miles), I could use half the LME for the boil then add the rest at flame out? Or I could possibly modify the recipe to include a half pound or so of DME which will give the boil the malt needed? I wanted to hold off on trying a DME boil but if it will help then I will try it. IF you take my suggestion then make sure you add the first half off the flame ...in other words, get your water nice and hot, take it off the stove, mix in the first half of the LME ensuring it is completely mixed before putting back on the stove. Bring to a boil and then add your 60 minute additions. When at 0 mins take off the stove and add the the second half of the LME and then mix well. I've done this repeatedly without inky tastes (heavy maillard reactions) or extract twang and is how I make my hefeweizen. On page 35 of "Brewing Classic Styles" they say to "Boil all your hops in half of your total malt extract". It's what I do and I think does make a difference.
  5. I stand corrected. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306832/en-us GWCR wrote: rniles wrote: Hold down the shift key while clicking "reload" (or F5) Actually, it is ctrl f5 to do a full refresh of the page in IE, not shift f5.
  6. I can't imagine you need 370B yeast for a 1.053 and approx 9 qts. ...you should need around 100B
  7. Maybe put half the LME in with your 60 minute boil ...you need to have some malt in there for your hop boil ..then add the second half of your LME at flame out (0min).
  8. Hold down the shift key while clicking "reload" (or F5)
  9. The 16 qt should be fine. That's what I use.
  10. I'm a fan of liquid but have nothing against dry yeast. I find that for Mr. Beer sized batches (under OG of 1.060) I don't need to make a starter. I like the variety of the liquid yeasts and they seem easy for me. Wyeast has smack packs. I haven't had a problem with them. White Labs ..well just open the vial and pitch. I also have started to wash my yeasts and re-use them for a few generations (just pitched a third generation Wyeast 1272 yesterday). I would say that you should try a few different brands, wet/dry and just do what you like for what you're brewing.
  11. Chuck N wrote: Okay. Now to my original point; I've also noticed quite a bit of trub at the bottom of each bottle. ... So the last bottle I poured I stopped half-way through the pour, swirled the bottle to mix the trub and then poured it in to the glass. I didn't like what it did to the taste of the beer. Yeah - don't do that ...unless it's a hefe. If you don't want to waste that last bit then just drink it by itself ..not too tasty but not that bad ...and lots of B vitamins!
  12. packerduf wrote: BTW, I'm out on pouring in the trub. I know, I know.....Whimpy on my part, but I can't bring myself to do it intentionally. Don't call it trub ..call it yeast ..and yeast is what makes a hefe a hefe!
  13. c_s_stanley wrote: What is the life I should get out of this keg? What's the most brews you guys have gotten out of them? I've been using mine for a year and a half now.
  14. Sheldoni wrote: I wouldnt use campden in beer. Sodium metabisulfate is specifically designed for beer. Campden can give beer off flavors also. I haven't noticed any off-flavours with (potassium metabisulfite), although I only use a 1/4 of a tablet. Recommended by Palmer http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter4-1.html for chlorine and chloramine problems in the water. ...but I'll check into your Sodium metabisulfate - I'm always willing to try something new. Thanks!
  15. Sometimes caused by chlorines: http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html If this is the case, rinsing helps or if it's in your water a 1/4 campden tablet might help.
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