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cm11599ps

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About cm11599ps

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. yankeedag wrote: swenocha wrote: Cribbing Yankeedag... The yeast is done eating the sugar and pooping, and now it's time to eat the poop. Or something like that... I may have misquoted... Actually, at five days, it's still wizzin and pharting. But this is the start of the feminine side of the process... we all know they do it, they just don't want us to catch them. :stout: Simply brilliant!
  2. BeerConnoisseur wrote: yankeedag wrote: And yes, more and bigger jugs will soon be needed. Mmmmm, more and bigger jugs. Me likey!
  3. yankeedag wrote: That 2-2-2 rule is mainely to keep the noobz from drinking it right out the can from MB. Sometimes I open my HME and dump the yeast packet right in the can. I let it sit for 2 weeks pop the can in the fridge for an hour or two and then enjoy.
  4. Not sure if it helps, but I apply 12 PSI to any kegs in my kegerator wether it's store bought or home brew.
  5. jopa wrote: [img size=877]http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af1/4jopa/FP4.jpg[img size=877]http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af1/4jopa/FP2.jpgFirst pour of my ADIPA (tweaked a bit). I know it was a bit early, only 15 days in the bottle; but I wanted to have one on Super Bowl Sunday. Overall it came out better than I expected .... nice carbination, one even laced down the glass as it was drank. Flavor was more hop forward than malt forward (which is how I like an IPA). Gotta say I was a little skeptical of making good beer with Mr Beer. Not any more!! .... this was pretty darn good. And it will only get better with time!!. Its a little pre-mature ..but I may be hooked!!. .. bottled my second batch Saturday (tweaked Shillelagh Stout). .. Fermenting my third (tweaked Munton's Gold IPA). Looks good and love the pint glass! Read my signature to see what's in my kegerator. lol
  6. I'm assuming you mean you are getting a lot of foam. This is not solely because your pressure is too high. 1) The 12 PSI may have been perfect but for how long were you forcing it at 20PSI? 20 PSI will overcarb your beer if set at that level too long. Even if you turn the pressure down and vent the keg you will not get instant results. It will take some time for the beer to get to the correct pressure. That's why I suggested the 12 PSI for a week and then drinking instead of trying to carb it it one day. 2) Temperature plays a HUGE role in the foam issue. Take a look at the following pic. It's basically a mini fridge with a beer tower on top. The problem is that the beer tower is being cooled by the fridge since it shares the same air. Of course, hot air rises so that beer tower is going to be the WARMEST part of the setup. There is insulation in that tower but it is still going to be the warmest part of your setup. This is called "first pour foam" and is experienced by almost all kegerator owners. As a result, the beer that is in the beer line in the tower will get a few degrees warmer then the beer in the keg. When this happens the CO2 in that warmer beer comes out of solution and results in this foaming action. What people do to combat this problem is to pour that foam into a glass and then immediately have anotehr glass handy. The beer that comes out then will be perfect since it is actually cold since it coming straight from the keg now. The warm beer in the line is only about anough to fill a shot glass but when it foams it can fill an entire pint glass. Lowering the pressure MAY help after a day or two but that lower pressure will do you a disservice because in a few days you will have flat beer since there is not enough pressure being applied. Serving temperature should be about 38 degrees. You get the serving temperature by pouring a glass, then pour a second glass and take that reading. The beer in that glass is coming straight from the keg and gives you the correct reading. In my case, if you have people over and people are constantly drawing pints every few minutes then the beer never has a chance to warm up and you always get perfect pours. If I let the keg sit for an extended period then you may get some foam due to temperature increase. FWIW, I have a blower setup which blows cold air from the bottom of the fridge up through a hose that goes right into my beer tower. This cools the tower to help maintain an even temperature level. Another thing you can do is to pour into a pitcher. The pitcher will still get the initial foam but as you continue to pour the beer from the actual keg will start coming out and you'll get the beer you want. Then pour into a glass. 3) Moving the keg before pouring has a huge impact, especially if you have such a small amount of liquid in a larger keg. The liquid has more space to slosh around and get foamy. Have you ever tried to tap a keg soon after bringing it home? Instant foam from all the bumps and keg took coming home. That's why if you're having a party you should get the keg as soon as possible that day and ice it down. Then don't tap it until you are ready to serve. 4) Beer ling length. If the line that goes from your keg to your faucet is too short then you may have a problem with foam. Ideally the line should be about 5-6' long because that length will add more resistance in your line and forse the beer to come out more slowly. 5) When pouring be sure to open the handle all the way in one quick motion. Opening the handle slowly or halfway will lead to foam as well. 6) Your elevation above sea level is key too. The higher you are above sea level the more pressure you need to apply. I believe it's about one more PSI for every 2,000 feet above sea level. (Normal serving pressure is about 12 PSI) It may take some time to get your settings right and you will probably be dumping lots of beer. Well, you may be dumping foam anyway. Even if you have a glass of foam it may only be about a shot glass size of beer so don't feel like you are losing that much. Remember what I said though. It will take time for your pressure and temperature adjustments to take effect. You will NOT get instant results. Make gradual adjustments and then check your pour again a day later. If there are still problems then make another gradual adjustment and check it a day later. My theory is that you are trying to pour your beer too warm.
  7. I'm starting another thread in the drain pipe forum so we can stop hijacking this thread. lol
  8. Beerlabelman wrote: Also, you've got to admit, my Angry Dragon label is good right? Nice label but I'm still liking the mug better. lol Kicked the Devils butts tonight too. What can I say about Marion. It would be a horrible season without him.
  9. I would highly suggest you force carb for a week at the serving PSI of about 12. It's easy to over carb your beer by trying to carb it in a day.
  10. The PSI depends on the temperature of your beer, they type of beer, the length of your beer line as well as your elevation above sea level. Other than that, a good rule of thumb is a serving PSI of about 12.
  11. I mean no disrespect to anyone in this thread or the labels, but the best thing in this thread is the New York Football Giants mug. lol Islanders? LET'S GO RANGERS!
  12. I would still get the real thing. It's $23 for the part that dispenses only 3 gallons of beer according to your link. You said you are brewing 5 gallons of beer. You would then need to purchase additional cartridges and then you're at about the price of a a gas tank. What you posted is really just if you brew a beer and want to take the corny keg to a party somewhere.
  13. You can boil the water on your parents forehead when they find out you are using a gas burner in the bathroom.
  14. Just but the 5# tank and be done with it. I don't know if it's possible to use those BB gun things but even if you do they are going to be more expensive in the long run. It only costs me about $12 to get my tank filled. I drop it off at a place about 10 minutes from my house and pick it up the next day.
  15. You can get a new 5# tank for about $60 http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/gas-equipment-cid-19.html It should last through roughly 15-22 corny kegs. It also depends on if you want to force carb because that will use up more gas. You can get your tanks filled at any welding supply shop or a fire supply store. These places should take your tank, freeze it and fill it up. You will have to get it the next day. You can drop off your tank and swap it with a full tank that day but then you are not getting the same tank back. Some scuba shops may also fill your tank. I suggest you go to a place that freezes you tank because that seems to be the best way to get a proper fill.
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