Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About ronnydobbs

  • Rank
    Brewmaster in Training

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. FedoraDave wrote: You can find smoked malted grains that would probably work better than Liquid Smoke. Rebel Brewer has smoked specialty grains, and the site even has descriptions of them, recommendations for what percentage of the grain bill will produce what level of smoke intensity, and what recipes (such as a dark porter) they would complement. +1 If you decide to use the liquid smoke I would go with a dark beer. They tend to be the best for such an addition.
  2. Add the DME/LME! Not only have you found that it is cheaper, but it really is the next step in progressing as a brewer. It may not go right, our first time doing anything usually doesn't go as smooth, but it is the best way to learn. Plus it will make you a more versatile brewer and willing to take the next step after this. I love Mr. Beer and their products, hell I just made the Sticky Wicket with added grains that got rave reviews. If I just brewed it straight up it would have been good, but not great. So do yourself the favor and take the plunge.
  3. Colby wrote: Screwy Brewer wrote: Colby wrote: CPVC is very common in mash tuns and won't float like the SS mesh has the potential to do. Colby I used braided stainless steel in my mash tun and it never has floated or had the potential to do so. [img size=300]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8JNvH67LADs/TQTwIxiuYwI/AAAAAAAAAf8/Y-awL7JZzqY/s1024/flowrate.jpg Screwy's 5 Gallon Mash Tun I know that a lot of the braided hoses at Home Depot are made of plastic, which will float, and they look almost exactly like the stainless steel braided hoses but they should never be used in a mash tun. [img size=300]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s8mbPljBVbk/TQTGdO4_0NI/AAAAAAAAAfM/PL77rDBBp-Q/s1024/parts2.jpgMaybe 'float' was the wrong term and 'stirred up into the mash' would have been more appropriate. I couldn't tell what the plug was in the end of Dave's braid was, but if it's some sort of metallic part, it's probably ok. This is the situation I was referencing: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/floating-ss-braid-155805/ The other end of the braid is usually weighed down with a plug that is the same metal as the spout. I have never had a problem with it staying on the bottom of the cooler.
  4. I would buy that, the $15 labor is worth it.
  5. FedoraDave wrote: texasbrewer0069 wrote: Looks good... since you had a cooler wat was total you had to spend? No, I had to go out and buy the cooler, too. I didn't keep track, but I figure the entire cost was probably between 35 and 50 bucks. $50 is about what I spent, the LHBS sells them for $129 so you really get over. If you are even somewhat handy you can build one.
  6. I would take it out of the fridge to let the yeast wake up and do their magical cleanup work. If you leave the bottles in the fridge then it will just be cold and the same sour taste. Take them out for a while (2 weeks at least) and then put one in the fridge and see how that taste.
  7. Looks just like the one that I made a while ago...you will be pleased sir!! The braid rocks because it is stainless and the wort flows great through it. I have made 13 batches using this set up and love it.
  8. k9dude wrote: bucknut wrote: SenorPepe wrote: TheConserver wrote: Right. I get the water in the second pot to about 180. I pull the grain bag from the mash and put it into the second pot. This should drop the temp to around 170. I let that go for about 10 minutes, stirring pretty consistently. The grain bag then goes in a colander suspended over the original mash pot and the liquid from the second pot gets poured over the grain. I've gotten efficiencies of 85%, 87% and 89% using this method (although I have also gotten 67% and 71% as well) Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying. I was trying to decide which method to go with for my upcoming BIAB...but now I'm thinking...why not both? Could you just do a "mash in", then remove the grains from the brew pot, put them in a strainer over another pot, then pour some of the wort from the brew pot over the grains to do a sparge? Just thinking it might be easier than worrying about going over the 170 and constantly stirring. Just thinking. Actually no, the sparge is to extract as much remaining sugars from the grains so needs to be done with clean water at around 170 degree mark. The wort in the boil pot has already been "saturated) with the sugars from the mash so will not extract the way clean water would. Mash out is done to help loosen out grains and ready them for sparge (they tend to clump during mash at the bottom of mash tun) and is really an unnessary step for BIAB. At least this is what I have read and I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will come and clarify. I would side with you on this. Now I don't BIAB at all anymore, but I would say to leave the first runnings in the pot and sparge with clean water to extract the left over sugars. Three pots are really needed for this to actually occur. Unless you are sparging into the main pot.
  9. Okay, so this should go in the Basic Brewing Recipes forum, except I used steeping grains. This recipe has my dad calling me for more every weekend. So without further ado, here is what I did to the Sticky Wicket Premium Refill: (2) Cans Sticky Wicket .5 lbs Carapils .5 lbs Crystal 10L That totally killed it! All you have to do is steep that for 30 minutes at 150* and you are going to end up with one hell of a good beer.
  10. tywinter wrote: Screwy Brewer wrote: I used two different sized jars when washing my Stout yeast. The process was really easy to do but as it turned out I haven't brewed another batch of stout since and the jars have been in the refrigerator for aver 6 months now. [img size=300]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5fUZNObuKuQ/TUKvOq3LAkI/AAAAAAAAAik/S5TIrXX4Phg/s912/jars1.jpg Yeast Harvesting And RanchingHow long will your harvested yeast last in the fridge?? Won't it go bad/die at some point? I have heard that it is good up to a year. Personally, I would watch older yeast and have a packet of dry on hand just in case. Myself, I have been harvesting yeast that I know that I will use within a batch or so. I have no plans on harvesting the Mr. Beer Seasonal Dubbel yeast because I am most likely not to brew it within a year. Not to say that the Dubbel is not good, took a taste of it before bottling and it is fantastic, just not something I would brew regularly.
  11. I tried BIAB and I was bad at holding temps. So I thought about the cooler Mash Tun Lauters and found this: MTL It was ridiculously easy to make and I have been using it for the last...15-20 batches of AG that I have made so far. I have been getting awesome efficiency and love it. If you have the spare cash, I would do it.
  12. I was dumping them into my yard as well, until the roaches decided it was their favorite eating joint. Now I either go with dog treats or down the disposal. I know, but roaches stink worse that the smell coming from Tabasco's trash can.
  13. GWCR wrote: This brew is gone as of last night, and so is my pipeline. Two LBKs full and one case conditioning, but still 2 weeks to go until the next tester. This was a good brew, but I liked the German Hefeweizen recipe better. That won't keep me from drinking the other batch of IH that is currently conditioning though...just sayin'. Totally agree that the German Hefe recipe was better. Hell it might be the best recipe that Mr. Beer offers as far as I am concerned. I am drinking my second batch of IHs, 13 weeks in the bottle and this batch is better than the last. Only because it aged longer I think. Really good and I still have about 12 of them left, so should be good drinking for a little while.
  14. Luckily I have a 1 Gallon growler from the Local Brewery that I use since 1 Gallon of beer goes flat quick and I usually have them fill the 32oz. ones. Good Luck D Rabbit!! You will be kicking yourself for not doing it sooner. But it is awesome when the first batch you do starts kicking from a previous batch's yeast. And not just the money part, but that you can actually do it.
  15. I have a 4.4 CU min fridge that holds (2) lbks and a Slimline if I duct tape the door shut. Two lbks fit perfectly in it and I got it at Wal-mart for $125. The Johnson Control was of course extra, but well worth the money. Mini Fridge (4.5CU for less than I paid for mine): Mini Fridge Johnson Control (You can find a better deal elsewhere, but this is what it looks like): Johnson Control
  • Create New...