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BeerConnoisseur

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About BeerConnoisseur

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. A good color printer is your best bet to get the colors right to compare to a brew. I have taken pics of things and then printed them. The color will be right in the printout but not always on my Laptop.
  2. Not TOO quick. Too much air movement above the opening is what you do not want. Just have EVERYTHING ready and proceed at a normal pace. Ok, just being silly I guess. Still, try to have everything ready and to not leave the top off while you puree the fruit which you forgot to do beforehand.
  3. ClaymoreCharlie wrote: fuzz wrote: packerduf wrote: fuzz wrote: I drop't my keg after 21 days fermenting, I was putting it in the fridge to cold crash.....after bottling it had an "alcohol burn" off flavor that didn't mellow out with time. Had to toss :S . Shake with caution. You tossed it? :ohmy: Someone, anyone.....key the NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I know, it hurt, but it was only two bottles. lesson learned Do you bottle in gallon jugs :woohoo: No. He said and I quote, “that didn't mellow out with time.” How would he know that unless he had been drinking it? He just finally got tired of looking at the last two bottles and dumped them.Dang guy, pay attention.
  4. FYI… For those wanting the MrBeer BeerSmith file to work. Save the .bsm file to your hard drive. Open Beer Smith. Select the Grains and Extracts list In the File menu select Import & Merge Select the “mr_beer_extracts.bsm” file to import Now when you are building a recipe the MrBeer ingredients are there for you to choose. (Remember the MrBeer cans are 1.21 lbs not the default 1 lb amount and batch size is 2.13 gallons.)
  5. btomlin75 wrote: Somewhere in the forum is a link for MB extracts to work with BeerSmith. ... Linkie ThingThanks to D Rock
  6. First thing I do on brew day is put about a cup of sterile water heated to around 80* (Per Fermentis instructions) in a sterile jar. Sprinkle the dry yeast pack on top. Do not stir and then cover with paper towel. By the time I am ready to pitch (2-3 hours) I have cloudy water with a thick foam layer on top. I use a sterile spoon to gently mix in the foam and pour this into my fermenter. Fermentis says to use either water or wort. My feeling is I want the cell walls to rehydrate first before they begin doing ANY work. Stronger cell walls make healthier cells. I mix my nutrient into the fermenter by aerating. Then pitch healthy HUNGRY yeast.
  7. The most accurate way would be to use a measuring cup and add 2 liters into the growler. Then mark or make note of the water line fill mark. Then remove water, add primer for 2 liters and add beer to full line. Condition as normal.
  8. Ok, the reason for the post was to point out this error. It needs to be fixed. Leaving the Room Temp part in and simply changing the temp range will slip by most new brewers. This was probably done by some copy writer who does not brew. In my opinion, note it in BOLD letters that Lager yeast needs LOWER than “Room Temperature” fermentation.
  9. In the instructions for the MrBeer Zealous Bock it says: 2.8. Ferment by placing the keg out of direct sunlight and in a location with a consistent temperature. Allow beer to FERMENT A MINIMUM OF TWO WEEKS at room temperature (between 48°-58°F). Where do these guys live?
  10. I guess someone may need to clear up something. In brewing there are two uses for the word Lager. 1. Lager: To ferment at low temps. (45*-55* or so) 2. Lager: To Condition a bottled beer. (Done at optimum temp for yeast used.)
  11. Let me start by saying Thank You and an early Welcome Home. Now to the issue… FedoraDave wrote: … Too much time on the yeast cake can affect the flavor. … Mutsy wrote: … You just don't want to go past 21 in the fermenter for sure. … Not to pop too many bubbles, but… The idea of removing from the yeast cake has been updated by Palmer and others. With improvements in yeast since “How to Brew” (The online version) was written, there is no longer an issue with leaving too long on primary in a home brewing situation. In a LARGE craft brewery where there are 100s or 1000s of pounds of liquid on top of the cake, yes, but in our little jugs, kegs and Carboys, no. Back to the OP question; I would leave it a full 3 weeks, maybe 4, to be sure the yeast have finished their cleanup. Without a hydrometer there is no way to tell if fermentation is complete. If you are in a big hurry, then shoot for the low side of the Co2 range for the style. Better slightly under-carbed, than bottle bombs. I would say 4-6 weeks of bottle conditioning will be plenty. If you have the time before coming stateside then give the yeast time to clean up after themselves.
  12. I am LAZY!!! :whistle: I bought a cheap aquarium pump, tubing, flow valve and a big air stone. I sanitize the stone and hose. Then turn it on, drop it in the fermenter and fire it up. After a few minutes the foam may come out the top so I have to adjust the flow. I let it run for 30 minutes. Remove stone with the pump still on to keep the wort out of the stone’s pores. Rinse it off and let it dry out before storage in baggy till next time. (Tip: On big beers, I use a 5 gallon bucket to aerate in before adding to the smaller fermenter. This way the foam becomes a non-issue.)
  13. I don't. But I'm weird I guess :silly: , but I have a reason. The reason I don’t is when I over fill a bottle :whistle: , I can just pour a little back into the bucket. Once I have six or so filled just right, I then add the primer to them and cap. Place them in their six pack holder, grab the next holder of empties and repeat.
  14. Also, when and if you start using more expensive yeast you may look into reusing them. In that case a hop sack makes the trub cleaner and it make it easier to wash the yeast. I now use mostly whole hops and wash most of my yeast for reuse. A hop sack is a real benefit to me. I can make an $8 vial of yeast last several brews this way. Like Dave said, look into doing Lagers in winter and Ales in summer. Wish I had that option.
  15. Gypsy wrote: ... It's made by faberware. ... Food grade I bet.The ones at an auto store would not be, but since the main issue is the leaching of chemicals over time, I say go for it if you cannot find a food grade one. The small amount leached out during the pour is by far too little to be an issue. Edit: Never mind. Faberware POT. Still get an auto store funnel if needed.
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