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kedogn

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Everything posted by kedogn

  1. I can only speak of my experience and my studies. Beyond that, I am not able to have an opinion. So if you say it is thus, I have to believe you... so no reason to "argue"
  2. You are, basically, making your own coconut extract ("Tincuture") is what you are doing. I used to do this with cocoa nibs for my chocolate porter. Toast, soak, toss. However, what I have learned as a 'professional' now is that this isn't allowed unless you get TTB approval prior. Putting anything that isn't Reinheitsgebot approved, basically, needs TTB approval. Most certainly liquor. While still needing approval, to me, a good coconut extract is the way to go.... keyword: good. Not some cheap ass extract, it's gotta to be a good, true flavor. Again, the biggest factor for me is, this allows us to control the flavor profile. We can add to the fermenter or we can add it just to the keg as we are kegging and we will always get the right amount of flavor we are looking for.
  3. I have yes. I have done it with toasting my own coconut and tossing it straight in... that was a HUGE nightmare. I have done with toasting and putting it in a sack and DH'n with it. The problem I see is that what you really want is the oils that come with toasting and a couple of things happen here: 1) It takes a boatload to get a decent coconut flavor and 2) These oils reduce head retention and basically make the beer look flat and IMO, almost unappealing when it is poured. I like a good, chocolaty, head on my porters when poured. The way around this is coconut extract. Using extract does at least 3 things for you: 1) No toasting, no mess! 2) Easier to control flavor profile & be consistent with it and 3) Gives you head!
  4. Honestly, don’t know much about those set ups. I’ve seen them mentioned on a few videos I’ve watched. Always down to watch brewery related videos, so thanks for that. Heck, the last few nights I have been up waaaaay past my bed time doing just that. I posted this pic on FB last night and tagged Mitch. Cool to hear what he had to say in 2011 back when he was with Stone. Watched a couple other interviews with him from 2011/2012 last night also.
  5. I don’t do sours, yet. Too small of a confined space we are brewing in to risk it right now. #Eventually.
  6. I didn’t go to OU, but nice try. Im just saying, if it was Seattle, I could show y’all an amazing time. Then again, maybe schedule Seattle next year and I host y’all at Manfish.
  7. Is that a technical brewing phrase? Lol 😂
  8. Nothing I would specifically say to go to, no. I am under the belief that “aimlessly wandering” is learning and learning is good.
  9. It was never a thought for me when I started out either. Then friends kept telling me I needed to be able to sell my beer because they loved it. I kept reminding them: a) You’re drinking for free and b) You’re drunk lol. however, they were right and here we are.
  10. Very easily. From my experience all it took was trying that first batch (looking back it was terrible, temp issue I think, but I made it). Then I stepped up to 3 LBKs and got a pipeline started. Within 5 months of my 1st batch I was on to All Grain doing 3 gallon batches, then it went to 5, to 10, to 15 and eventually to 35 gallon batches and well, now, in 2018 we sold 20 BBLs (620 gallons) of Manfish beer. Yes, “obsession” is right.
  11. US-05. For what I brew, I can use it in almost everything... almost.
  12. Agreed! I brewed my 1st batch 9 years ago today. Had it not been for the help of people here, who knows where I would have been or if I would have even stuck with it.
  13. You want the temp of the wort. The ambient air temp around can be quite different from the wort temp, especially with the heat of fermentation. Best thing to do with a probe is to attach it to the side of your fermentation vessel (below the wort level), under something thick, like styrofoam. It’s an easy way to get a pretty accurate reading of the wort temp. Best way is to have the probe in the wort itself, but that’s not usually the easiest way.
  14. Problem is, there is no specific “One Stop Shop” or “Magic Powder” that will do that. You can literally start with the same water and the same grainbill (and hop schedule) but use different mineral adds (or amounts) in your water and you will have different beers in the end. One might be a bitter hoppy bomb, while the other might have the hops muted some as it brings the malt more forward and is more balanced. #ILoveThisStuff!
  15. 100% in agreement. It’s not possible. It will help you get closer, sure, and for an all-in-one powder, fine. However, since not all starting water and not all grainbills are the same... it’s not possible to do exactly what it says. For that reason, I’ve never used it. Same thing for me with “Just add some gypsum to your water for IPAs to make them better”. While “Better” is certainly subjective, nope! Depending on your grainbill and what you already have in your water makeup, you can make things much worse. Personally, I would suggest that until you know what it’s going to do to your water for sure, don’t be adding anything.
  16. I started looking at water chemistry in early 2015 thanks to @Screwy Brewer. What I learned helped take my beers to the next level be that with clarity, mouthfeel, or taste. Back then I was doing 5-10 gallon batches and I too started with distilled water. Before a scheduled brew day, I would literally go to Winco or Safeway to buy jugs of distilled water (wherever it was the cheapest I could find for the quantity needed). When we moved to this location, I sent a sample of our well water in to be tested and that gave me the baseline. The first beer I brewed here was to be just a "sample batch" to test the new water and a the additives to see how that batch would turn out (as it is, we were begged for that keg, so it became our first official release on 8/3/17 - #IPA4Life - the same beer we just brewed 56 gallons of this weekend). It is really amazing how I used to be like "My water is good" and thought that was fine. Then after reading Screwy's blog posts, that fired me up to read more and more and to give it a shot myself. "Water" was something I kept putting off learning. I always seemed to be afraid of it for lack of a better way to say it. However, like you said, "water is the only thing we have most control over" and of the 4 main ingredients, that is completely true. I tell you what, there is no comparison when it comes to my Porter when I did it straight up vs when adding CaCo3 to the water. No doubts. Which reminds me, I better find out how much CaCo3 I have, as we are running 60 gallons of Porter (aka "John") next weekend
  17. I’m obviously not Creeps, but neither have I. The only reason I answer is I have 11# in my hop freezer. Is there a specific reason you ask?
  18. That would be a great use of it. Seems like a pretty straight forward, easy to use (once programmed) set up. I look forward (most likely) to Brewing on it.
  19. We know a local, fairly local, brewery that has one. Not sure if it’s the same company or not though. What I like about it is that you can basically run 2 3bbl beers at the same time. The thought of the ease of running 12bbls in a day or even 4 3bbl batches of different beers excites me. Would mean a need for several different fermenters/brites, but could be done and with the savings vs a standard 7bbl system, wow!
  20. I have done a ton of research today on that 300 gallon set up. I have yet to find a reason NOT to get it. Hmmm?
  21. Yeah, not sure I’d know many home brewers that would be willing to pay that to brew at home. Interesting though. Thanks for sharing that link. Edit: Intersting.... if this is accurate: “The average time to brew 2 batches of beer with this system is 3.5 - 4 hours +/- meaning that you can brew up to 12BBL of beer with the 300 gallon version in a single 7-8 hour brew day.” Edit2: this really has me thinking. REALLY has me thinking. The brain is churning. Edit3: @Creeps McLane, I just might be owing you many beers in the future!! #JustSayin
  22. I gotta say, that’s impressive, but what a major PITA that must be. Some of my beers use 90+ lbs of grain (before they are wet) and I am a-ok using a scoop to get that outta the mash tun (our yard waste bin currently has about 900# of grain in it - wet - and I can’t wait to see them dump it when they pick it up today - took 2 guys to move it to the curb lol). I am also quite happy to use pumps to move the wort and sparge water. I get the “simplicity” of the BIAB, but after 10 gals, to me, it was more of a hassle than it was worth.
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