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D Rabbit

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  1. Yeast does tend to impart characteristics into the beers they ferment. Been away for a bit, assuming CAL is a type of extract kit, probably a lager style using the fromunda yeast. Only thing I can really think of is maybe while pouring out in to the cup you had more yeast sediment get in to this glass than the others. If it is really that overpowering maybe try letting them age a little longer before chilling them as maybe they have more work to get done. Otherwise, let them chill and enjoy.
  2. "pete rose haircut" post=318316 said:Seeing as how most of the beer that I now enjoy runs $6 to $9+ for a 6 pack, yes it is cheaper, especially if I do 5 gallon batches, The last few beers I bought were $6 for a bottle, $9 for a 6 pack, and $10 for a 4 pack. Depends on what you compare the beer to. It will be more expensive to brew beer than buying keystone in a case but cheaper than buying Long Trail Double IPA in a case.
  3. Good luck with only 1 trip. Had an exact list of things needed and still made 3-4 trips. It's inevitable when doing DIY projects. Good advice with bigger cooler though. Can always do smaller batches in big coolers but can't do bigger batches in smaller coolers.
  4. "losman26" post=308925 said:Screwy, have you ever seen these ball lock faucets? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004RT2AMQ I have one of these but only used it once. I got quite a bit of foam, but that could be because I had too much pressure in the keg. I was also using a corny keg charger and had to vent off a lot of co2. I might try the keg faucet, without the charger. Picnic taps get a great pour though. I use this set up for parties. I bring a keg and attach that with a tap handle. I use the little CO2 cartridges to supply the pressure for dispensing. Best method is to purge the keg entirely and than give it a touch of pressure for dispensing. I was having the foam issue with this setup too until i figured out that the least amount of pressure works best.
  5. "philm00x" post=312546 said:as the others have said, carry on for 3 weeks! even though the chaos has subsided, the yeast are still fermenting and cleaning up after themselves. Best advice! Although it looks like they have finished their job, they are still silently working.
  6. "berryman" post=310757 said: "swenocha" post=310750 said:We all tried our first born well before 28 days. :party: And we'd all be lying if we said different. True Dat! I wait 21 days because, and only because, it takes 21 days for full carbonation to take place.
  7. "Wings_Fan_In_KC" post=309949 said: But 4 batches at 2.25 gallons per batch (Mr. Beer sized batch) comes out to more than 8 gallons. Bazow! Yep, that's why math is hard! With barrels you need to make sure they are absolutely full, so extra is better. You will also lose some to trub. Plus the barrel will soak up a little so its nice to have a little extra to top off after the first week. I didnt see original post. My bad. Make sure to soak barrel with water first to swell it up so no leaks. Blow odd might be necessary Scot first week but can be dumped aafter that as there should be nomore fermentation. We did this for a 55gallon batch in my brew club. Came out well but did sour. It's hard to avoid an infection with barrels unless treated properly, by professionals.
  8. "yankeedag" post=308487 said::borg: welcome to the beerborg information center. You will be assimulated. Resistance is quite futile: we have beer. Good to see you have dusted this off. Been a little while since I've seen it used!
  9. Next time just toss it all in. It will settle out with the trub. That seems way off too. I'm surprised by such a low reading with 7lbs of LME. Boil up a pound of DME and add to fermenter. Could do a short hop boil if you want too also. That should bring it up.
  10. "D Rabbit" post=307200 said:I agree with the above. Add some roasted malt to it and maybe increase your mash temp for a bit more body. My mash temps for my porter recipes are typically no lower than 156. I should add that this also depends on the attenuation of the yeast. I try to use a yeast with low attenuation for porters so they have that thick mouthfeel taste to them. Lower attenuation means you can lower the mash temp though.
  11. I agree with the above. Add some roasted malt to it and maybe increase your mash temp for a bit more body. My mash temps for my porter recipes are typically no lower than 156.
  12. What they all said. Plus, get a spray bottle with star san and water mix. Once I need to sanitize anything I just give it a little squirt and its ready to go.
  13. "CigarHombre" post=305716 said:Hello everyone I have a concern. I was in the process of pouring the wort into my LBK mixed with the cold spring water when I put my stirring spoon into the sink that had been filled with tap water. Since I had sanitized the spoon before I has used it and then placed it in the sink and used it to stir my wort with the spring water will my beer taste bad? It's been about two weeks fermenting... Should be fine. Anything introduced, if anything was, would be killed by the yeast most likely. Not like you dropped it in dirt than gave it a good stir. Give it a taste at bottling time. That will be your best indication.
  14. You can start by adding some Flaked barley and Carapils to your steeping grains. I would use .25# of 2-row, .25# Flaked Barley, .25# Carapils and bring some water up to about 160 degrees. The 2 row will give the grains a little added boost for extraction and converting. Its basically a very mini mash. Drop those grains in for about 30 minutes and add that to the boil pot than start your hop boil. That will help quite a bit. Until you get in to mashing grains and temperature control it can be difficult to really replicate the mouth feel your looking for.
  15. I have never understood the process of calculating how much sugar you need while batch priming before you know how much beer you actually have. for example, how do you know you have 1.75 gallons of beer before you transfer it to your priming bucket. I have always transferred to my priming bucket first before calculating out how much sugar water I need to add. after adding the sugar water solution I will stir it in gently so it mixes well. I let it sit for about 5 minutes before I start bottling. Mike bottles are uniformly carbed a majority of the time.
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