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  1. docpd

    NWPA Ideas

    I like the NWPA as a base for other brews. One of ny favorites: Cascade Pale Ale 1 can NWPA 1 lb Amber DME 0.25 oz Cascade 30 min boil 0.25 oz Cascade 20 min boil 0.25 0z Cascade 7 min boil 0.25 oz Cascade dry hop S-05 yeast, 1 packet
  2. I have had great results with soaking 1 oz of oak cubes in 4 oz of bourbon for 2 weeks and then pouring the cubes and bourbon in the fermenter for the last (3rd) week. I have done this with Pale Ales, Porters and Stouts. Just recently used Honey Bourbon in a Pale Ale and a Porter. The Pale Ale is very good, but the Porter is awesome.
  3. Great advice from Rick. We have all been there as new brewers, anxious to try our first brews and ready to begin experimenting. Patience is both the best and hardest piece of advice to follow. For everything except IPA's the more time in the bottle the better. I just found a few Bourbon Oatmeal Stout bottles that I brewed nearly 2 years ago and were buried under my other brews. They are awesome and much better than they were at a month or two in the bottle. I rarely will sample a beer at less than 4 weeks in the bottle, again except for an IPA, which I will try at 2 weeks.
  4. Yes it it hard to wait. Just to see how aging helps, you might try one bottle at 2 weeks then wait 2 more weeks to try the next one. You should notice a significant improvement.
  5. I have found that putting the LBK in a cooler and using the blue freezer packs allows me to maintain a temp of about 68 degrees. I use 1-2 packs and change them every 12 hours or so.
  6. While bottle bombs are indeed rare, they can occur anytime from 2 weeks to many months in the bottle. They are most common in the first few weeks. I keep my beer enclosed in a plastic trash bag for the first 4 weeks after bottling just in case. I have yet to have a bomb in over 100 batches though.
  7. Welcome to the obsession. You will find lots of great advice and fellowship here. Remember the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
  8. Jim is right in that more information is needed. However is this is a Mr Beer recipe, most of those that include hops call for the hops to be added at flame out (when you turn off the heat and add the HME). You then leave the hop sack in the fermenter for the full 3 weeks. This will give you more hops aroma; almost like dry hopping.
  9. I have brewed a nice Pilsner using the Czech Pilsner as a base, with 1 lb of light DME added. I also did a 20 minute hop boil using 1/2 oz of Saaz and brewed a a true lager using lager yeast. It came out very well.
  10. Unless your sanitation technique is really bad, you should never have a problem with mold. The green apple taste is just usually young beer and will condition out. The most common other off flavors are usually the result of fermenting at too high a temperature.
  11. Using the American Light and adding about 1/2 lb of light DME should get you in the 5% ABV ballpark and taste MUCH better than Bud. It will still be an ale, and as you likely know Bud is an American Lager. I think as you continue to brew your tastes will gravitate to more flavorful beers. I cut my drinking teeth on Bud and Miller High life 40 years ago, but no longer can drink either one of them. To each his own. I won't judge you for drinking American Lagers.
  12. Radical Brewing by Randy Mosher is another great book to look into once you have a few batches under your belt. The Palmer and Papazion books are both great for the new and not so new brewer.
  13. Good discussion of bottle choices. While it is purely personal preference, I have used glass starting with my first batch, 5 years ago. I have yet to have a bottle bomb, but I always ferment for 3 weeks and go easy on the priming sugar.
  14. Listen to Rick. A growler would make a hugely messy bottle bomb.
  15. If you want to use a bottling wand, the same 3/8 inch tubing will connect it to the spigot. Just cut a 2-3 inch section. The tubing fits over the spigot and the wand fits into the tubing. That is what I have been using for the last 4 years.
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