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Everything posted by btomlin75

  1. Never had that problem but since flies move from place to place, love sugars of any kind and reproduce rapidly they could have gotten there from anywhere in the house or through an open window or door. Good luck with finding the source and clean, clean and reclean after you bottle.
  2. Corn sugar, cane sugar, tubanato, light brown or dark brown sugar, honey, maple syrup, rice sugar, the list of fermentable sugars is vast and we need to try them all. Do not close your imagination to the flavor possibilities.
  3. Has anyone counted the number of times a thread similar to this has progressed thru this and other sites. Fact: using the instructions from MB exactly as written for a standard mix you will have beer 99% of the time. It may not be the best example of beer but it will be beer. Fact: using the 2-2-2 method for the same standard mix will give you beer 99% of the time. This beer will taste better than the beer brewed following the MB instructions that come with the fermenter. Depending on the actual brew the conditioning time helps improve the final taste for any time between 2 weeks and 6 months, some brews require more than a year to reach full maturity and some barley wines are aged well beyond a year. Be sure to put a bottling date on all your bottles and the start testing the taste once a week after 2 weeks (be sure to chill each bottle for 3 or 4 days before tasting). You will quickly see the need for conditioning and how it affects your beer.
  4. "Good things come to those who wait." MB products are ales and the yeast used are ale yeast and they do not function well once they get below 60 degrees for the most part.
  5. Interesting temperature control equipment SB. As to the use of a secondary, maybe for a high gravity 8% ABV and above, but as said above for most MB brews 3 weeks in the primary works well.
  6. Did the Cooper Australian as a 5 gallon run. The yeast action was awesome. The finished quality was along the lines of MB, Munton's and other canned HMEs. It is an extract kit that is a basic brew, good but not great.
  7. Welcome to the borq. Do you like Coors Light? If so you will probably not like MB. If you like the beers in Germany then you will probably like MB, especially the deluxe and premium blend. Have fun and enjoy.
  8. Bigger cans or more of MB HME equal a 5 gal batch. The marketing arena is saturated with 5 gallon kits but the small MB kit is the only one available. MB system works real well and if you have a five gallon fermenter just double the receipt.
  9. A little too cool is better than a little too hot. I tend to start mine cool 64 to 66 and let it move up to 70 over 3 or 4 days. Seems to work well for me.
  10. That will get the results that you are looking for sure.
  11. Change the ingredients and change the results. Booster adds alcohol and does not change the taste much. DME or LME adds alcohol and does change the taste. The number of combinations is as amazing as your own imagination. have fun and brew creative.
  12. even at 67 the MB yeast will work, been there and done that. Just be sure to let it work for 18 to 21 days because the process will be slowed. the main thing is to keep the temp consistent, up and down is not good, below 63 or 64 really slows the MB yeast and above 75 is not good either.
  13. I also have started putting 1 or 2 bottles back, have not made it a full year on any yet.
  14. Did 1 Cooper's and one Munton's and had no problems splitting the wort between 2 kegs. Used a measuring cup to split the wort and filled the kegs to the 8 quart mark. Makes 4 gallons not 5.
  15. I am very fickle, my favorite is the brew that I am drinking at any given moment. I have to say that it is hard to chose only one or two of the MB brews especially if you are using any of the premium recipes. So look at the list below and pick one.
  16. Should have good hop breath when ready to drink.
  17. The MB yeast will work at that OG but with all those adjuncts you are going to have to watch the process closely. Fermenting temp should be held on the low end, at least below 70 and preferably at 68. In addition this brew is ripe for a trip to a secondary fermenter after the first week. Once bottled you probably are going to want to give it at least 60 days or more of conditioning time.
  18. Bottle the brew, it is going to take a long conditioning time but should mellow out fine. I would not even try one for about 60 days after capping.
  19. It will take until at least Thanksgiving for you Christmas Ale 2002 to condition. You then have 3 weeks or so before the giving spirit takes over most, if not all, of you brew could disappear. Then you would not have to worry about giving anything away.
  20. The use of extended fermentation in a secondary versus extended time conditioning was the original question. There were a good number of thoughts on both options but none addressed the original question about Christmas 2004 beer. The need in this brew is time for the the spice flavors to mature and be infused throughout the beer. This need is best served through a long conditioning period.
  21. 21 days is not normally a problem. 7 days carbing and 7 days conditioning is more often than not going to leave you with a very immature beer. Try one after 14 days, if it taste good, drink on. Even if you find it good after 14 days be sure to keep 2 or 3 for a few more weeks to get a more mature taste.
  22. Temp control is difficult for small batches. The consensus above is that the short high spike might not have any affect and if it did conditioning will probably clear any off flavors out. Only goes to show how tolerant current home brew yeast actually are.
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