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Everything posted by btomlin75

  1. Response #1, 99 more to go. A beer count down would be better though. :gulp:
  2. Waiting time last soooooooooo much longer than drinking time.
  3. What is extract? It is merely all grain that some else mashed for you.
  4. If they fit and they seal then sanitize them and use them.
  5. bpgreen wrote: "Actually, 3.2 beer is 3.2% ABW, which is 4.0% ABV. They did this to get beer legalized during prohibition" I might be wrong about what the 3.2% was ABV or ABW but NO alcohol was legal during prohibition in the U.S. Anhauser-Bush had a brewery in Columbus, GA that produced what they called "military beer", it was only sold to military clubs and PX's, the DOD's logic for this was that 18 year olds would get sick of the beer before they got drunk(at least that's what we were told by AB in the late 60's). That video is the best reason to not drink anyone's light beer. Anyway, get a good hydrometer and make a few beers different ways to get the taste and feel that you like. It's fun and you get to enjoy beer while you practice.
  6. Depends on the brew and/or the yeast. Some might overflow during the first few days of fementation. This is generally krausen and the biggest problem it causes is a mess. It can clog the keg's venting system and that is a problem. If you have an overflow be sure to do a good clean up and loosen the cap slightly to clear the vents. You might not get an overflow at all if luck is with you.
  7. Things Change and things don't sell. Could be just pure economics. But somewhere in the great brewing universe the recipe still exist, the ingredients just be hard to find.
  8. As asked above, what exactly is the taste you are looking for? Light does not equate to low ABV, high ABV does not equate to "alcohol bite". It is easy for terms to be confused and sometimes it is difficult to accurately describe the taste you desire. 2. anything ABV is very low for any beer, the army used to require 3.2 ABV for distribution to U.S bases and that was considered to be low alcohol beer. Try a few brews as they are normally made, 1 standard brew(HME + booster), 1 deluxe brew (hme + ume) and 1 premium (double hme). All brews should use the same hme to give you the same basic taste. None of these brews will take you much above 4.0 ABV so you are just judging the affects of more malt or more hops.
  9. Less unfermented sugars means "dryer"(not sweet). Increased attenuation, more fermentable sugars or increased none sugar adjuncts (rice starches, flaked corn etc) can all be used to increase the dryness. The major brew houses all use non-fermentable adjuncts to "dry" their brews out. Better yeast, better malts and more hops "dry" my beer out if it needs to be dryer.
  10. Longer than 2 weeks I would be sure to keep a eye on the temp and not let it get high. I have done 26 days with no problems but the temp was around 66 degrees.
  11. Knew it was spot on but I didn't get a taste like the judges.
  12. It looks like the yeast are having one major party. They should leave a tasty brew for you.
  13. If MB gave out their HME recipes they would not be in business very long.
  14. The many methods to boost the yeast. :woohoo:
  15. Practice with what you have to start with, then try something else. I have used the 1 liter bottles, 2 liter growler, 5 liter mini-keg, 12 oz glass, 16 oz glass, 8 oz water bottles and just got some 22 oz flip tops. The use of the beer as well as the type beer help determine what I use. General low gravity brews get what's available but mainly 1 liter PET or 5 liter mini-keg cause I can drink more at one setting. Medium gravity get 1 liter PET or glass but sometimes 5 liter if I have a party planned. High gravity brews and specialty get glass only and mainly 12 oz cause I generally give them away or only drink 1 or 2 at a setting. I'm thinking about a 2.5 gallon keg system for bigger parties. So you see that each type of bottle and/or keg has it's use. Have fun and try different things once you get going.
  16. Good eyes help in the brewing process, especially when they save money,
  17. When it comes to cost you have to factor all cost in, not just ingredients. Yes, MB extracts ar more expensive than others but time is also money, equipment cost money and they all build up. For me it is a matter of brew size. My wife might drink 1 beer per week and I only drink one per day, that's not much beer per week and I like to have different types of beer to drink. Most other HMEs are designed for 5 gallon runs so for me MR incredients are cost effective because there is none wasted and I can try 15 to 20 different brews per year.
  18. Fermenting process kills many a bacteria and saves us from a lot our own errors. You should be OK and have beer.
  19. lager yeast at ale temps can work but you should try to keep it at the low end of the range. It's steam beer when you do it that way.
  20. Use a powered whisk for all my aeration. Just stir the wort(carefully) and not the keg as metal can and will scrach the plastic. What you are trying to do is get oxygen into the wort so that the yeast can grow.
  21. Batch prime sometimes and bottle prime sometimes. When I'm doing all 12 - 22 oz bottles or 5 gallon runs I batch prime (just easier). I also batch prime with liquid sweetners (again easier). I do growlers and 5 litre kegs from time to time and batch priming makes it difficult to get the sugar right. You prime based on what are doing and the results you want.
  22. Welcome to the borq. MB makes brewing simple but you still need to read the instructions and follow them. Especially the ones for sanitation. With the exception of the fermenting, carbing and conditioning times that come with the standard brews MB instructions are very simple and right on the money but even standard brews can use 2 weeks in the fermenter, 2 weeks carbing and 2 weeks conditioning. More time conditioning helps most brews. Practice with MB brews just as they are until you get comfortable with the process. Delux and premium kits generally don't use booster but are really simple to brew.
  23. As with any mass packaged product READ the label. Some "spring" waters are merely treated water, some is reverse osmosis water, some is ozonated and some has added preservatives. MB says "tap water" but everything MB does is to make the process as simple as possible. What you want is good clean water with natural nutrients left in. Distilled water has nothing in it(pure H2O) and needs nutrients added to help the yeast work properly. City water has sanitizer (chlorine, etc.) and other things. Well water can have dissolved minerals and bacteria. Simple statement is "if the water taste good by itself then it will probably taste good in your beer".
  24. If the temp is going to be off you are better to be too cool than to hot. MB yeast is optimal at 70, at 60 to 64 it will still ferment but slower and fewer esters, at 76 to 80 it will still ferment but quicker producing more esters, some that can produce off flavors. Too hot and you over cook, too cold and you don't cook. Sorta like smokin' meat, too hot and it's dry and like jerky, too cool and it doesn't get done, just the right temp and it's sweet, moist and tasty.
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