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ZekesWickedHardCoreBrew

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About ZekesWickedHardCoreBrew

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    Brewmaster in Training

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  1. Brewed this on Sunday night.... Doesn't get much easier .... 2.5 gal 1 4lb can Muntons Yorkshire Bitter 1 cup light brown rice syrup 1 pouch Wyeast 1278 Thames Valley Yeast pitched at 74 degrees OG : 1.070 ... ( this was bigger than I anticipated should be an interesting brew when done ) Chugging away happily in the basement at 66 degrees.
  2. oly wrote: Congrats on expanding your horizons. It's definitely easier to keep you pipeline filled when working bigger batches into your repertoire. Won't be long now before you've got a nine or ten gallon pot and a 50 lb. bag of two row in the corner. Hee hee. :banana: Baby steps Oly baby steps.... my wife isn't yet prepared for the AG set up in the garage yet ... :barman:
  3. haerbob3 wrote: a 6 gallon better bottle for a secondary. That is to big for the secondary you run the risk of oxidation! Mea Culpa I meant a 5 gallon , I have a 5 gallon glass carboy as well.
  4. My brewpot is 16 qts but I kept it lower to avoid a boil over. Can't wait to brew the next batch. I already ordered another 6.5 gallon fermentor ( pail) and a 6 gallon better bottle for a secondary. The next batch will be an English Mild ....( extract kit from Williams Brewing)
  5. I would go the temp route first. You seem to be on the low end of your range. If that doesn't work I would call Wyeast and see what they suggest.
  6. Well I finally got the 5 gallon kit going last night. I brewed an Irish Red Ale , Here was the Kit: 6 lb. Gold liquid malt extract, 12 oz. Caramel 40L, 2 oz. Special B, 2 oz. Roasted Barley specialty grains, 1 oz. Cascade, 1 oz. Fuggle pellet hops I used the White Labs WLP01 California Ale Yeast with this. It was a 30 min steep at 155 degrees and then a 60 min boil. 1 oz cascades for 60 mins 1 oz fuggles for 4 mins I have the stainless steel wort chiller and it worked great. got the Wort down to 80 degrees in under 7 mins. I had an extra pouch of booster left over so I added this to the boil as well. Oricinal gravity = 1.050 at 68 degrees. I will check on this in a week and see when I will rack it to the secondary. I am very pleased with my first attempt we will see how the end results are. FWIW I got the whole Kit and Kaboodle from Midwest Supplies , it was their everything plus a carboy kit.
  7. I have seen both Northern Brewer( Brewing Classic Styles ) and Cluster ( recipe from BYO)used. I had the Cluster so I used them. I was a little off on the SRM , mine is @ 6-8 and I have seen the average to be @ 14-16 .... oh well. Holding steady at 62 degrees . Has a healthy kreusen after 4 days. I can't wait for this one to mature. I will post the final results whemn I bottle.
  8. Here is my Sticky Wicket that was brewed in Oct and will be opened on 3-17-11... :stout: 2 cans Sticket Wicket Oatmeal Stout HME added at flame out 1 lb dark DME 1/2 oz Bullion hops 40 mins boil 1/2 oz Bullion hops 25 mins boil To answer your question on the booster if you want to bump your abv by all means add it. I prefer using DME with the premiums but its your beer .... I would not add the booster and the honey that would be too many adjuncts IMHO.
  9. Rick978 wrote: Hey, I learned something new today. Seems to be the norm around here. So to clarify, you first fill all the bottles and once they are all filled, then you cap them? I thought for some reason you had to get the caps on the bottles as soon as possible? Like the Avatar Rick ! :drinking: I do mine a little different I fill all with the sugar and then I will cap in groups of six.
  10. Brewed this yesterday afternoon #1 California Cowboy 1 lb Breiss Pilsen DME 1.4 lb Alexanders Pale Kicker added with 10 mins left in boil 1/4 cup brown rice syrup 1 can MrB Cowbay Lager HME added at flameout 1/2 oz cluster hops 45 mins 1/2 oz cluster hops 10 mins 1 pouch Wyeast 2112 California Lager yeast. Shooting for a California Common ( Steam) beer with this one. OG: 1.056 Fermenting at a steady 60-62 degrees.
  11. Racked this to a secondary yesterday . I have it sitting @ 57 degrees and I am going to keep it there 4 weeks until I bottle it.
  12. EekDaGeek wrote: Just starting with homebrew - I see you did a winter wheat twice so I'm guessing it was good. Is that a standard Mr Beer recipe or did you do something different? Tips appreciated. I only did one ...some is still conditioning and some is in the fridge .... :stout: Here is the recipe it is my own w/o any MrB. This is the link to the thread http://community.mrbeer.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=124&func=view&catid=20&id=95190
  13. The MrB ingredient that cannot and should not be boiled is the HME ( Hopped Malt Extract) the reason for this is that it has already been boiled ( with the hops in it) and you will alter the hop profile of that style. UME ( LME ) is designed to be boiled. As I said it is the foundation of all extract brews. Here is a sample ( it is for my American IPA ) for a 2.5 gallon LME/DME recipe with no HME. 1lbs Breiss Golden light DME 1 can MrB UME Pale Export added w 15 mins left in the boil 1/2 cup Agave Nectar added at flame out 1/2 oz Amarillo Hops 50 min 1/2 oz Citra Hops 40 min 1/2 oz Amarillo Hops 25 min 1/2 oz Citra Hops 25 min 1/2 oz Williamette Hops 6 min 6 gr Coopers dry yeast pitched at 74 degrees OG = 1.058 Note the DME was boiling for a full 50 mins and the UME was add with 15 mins left in the boil. I couild have used light LME for the 50 mins instead of the DME and it would have made very little difference to the brew. Your SRM will be effected if your scorch your LME but it is not effected if you boil it for a reasonable time.
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