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Tanarri

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About Tanarri

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. "rev_evans" post=360546 said:The huge amount of sugars compared to malts may be some of your off favors. Is there a dryness or cider taste? Its not an off flavor its just a flavor I dislike. Its not too dry and with longer conditioning times it is extremely good no cidery taste left over As far as yeast, go with either wyeast American pale I or II. Both very clean and good for the style it seems you are shooting for. The right yeast can make all the difference. I am actually shooting for an amber ale however I do believe that that would be a great choice for a yeast Edit. Just my personal opinion but I would scale back all of the adjuncts. I understand its a lot of adjunct much more then I use in any other brews I do. Most of my brews have no adjuncts aside from this one the only other non hard raspberry/lemon/cider type brews that I put sugar in are Belgians and big dark beers. The reason for making this beer this way is by request and it was a collaborative effort on our first try and has evolved from there. I have tried making this with just dme and hme I think that was evolution 2 or 3 it wasn't a favorite of anyone. So I have continued the evolution one step at a time evolution 4.1 and 4.3 didn't last long once they were introduced to the group. I imagine 5 will be the same way and it will let me know if its the honey that's the problem flavor or the ginger Do a few basic brews with an adjunct here or there and learn what they do to the beer. Then you'd be better prepared for the more complex stuff. Too many changes and you'll never know what change made the difference.Yep that is the whole point of this endeavor one change at a time until its as good as its going to be Thank you for your reply and the suggestion on the yeast
  2. "Gymrat" post=360082 said:I have been here a little longer than the hat and you dont remember me? Sorry but I don't. I started about the same time as the Hat. It's extremely hard to forget the nong. The others I interacted with the most(Sirius and bpgreen) seem to have left the boards. I was on a long board hiatus too so. Sorry again. I'll do my best to correct that error though.
  3. It could be water chemistry I know alot of chlorine is bad but other then that I am not an expert so I will focus on what I do know(still not an expert but I have been brewing for a few years so I know a little) Not knowing the exact recipes used the lack of maltiness is probably just that too much bittering hops for the amount of malt. Which goes into the next point of why there is too much bitterness. The fruity flavors could be from fermenting temps being in the 70s. Or the fruitiness could be from the hops depending on what kind of fruitiness you are getting but I would bet on the fermenting temps. The dryness could be the yeast sometimes US-05 is a little dry I haven't used 04. Again I am not an expert and since my break on the forums the only people I know are the Nong and the Hat so if they or anyone with related experience say different listen to them.
  4. I have to pick up the name brand stuff from walmart I have yet to find it unfragranced anywhere else. Also to actually answer the question I soak them over night if I am trying to remove labels and then rinse them thoroughly before sanitizing and bottling.
  5. "Gymrat" post=359980 said:Though as low as your OG is on this particular beer you may also just have a really fast turn around time. I have heard of beer going grain to glass in 2 weeks. Using US-05 I have had beers hit FG in as few as 5 days, though I believe I waited until day 10 to make sure it really was at FG (I am lazy and don't want to look through my notes to be 100% sure that that is how long I waited) A beer is done when it is done, will letting it condition longer in the keg hurt most likely not, will it help probably, will you need to let it condition longer in the bottle probably. I know its been stated before but the 2-3 week rule(guideline) is there to prevent anyone not actually checking the gravity of their beers from bottling too early. On a side note this is probably bad form but when I brew lagers I take a sample after the yeast has been pitched and keep it next to the lbk and the secondary for the duration so I don't lose a ton of beer checking gravity readings so that I do the D-rest at the right time. Cleaning the sample jar is a pain in the but after but that's a negligible compared to the amount of beer I would waste doing gravity readings. To each their own but if any one does have a better way of doing it I would be glad to hear it.
  6. My wife prefers it without carb, they are for her so no carb.
  7. Being that I am an impatient person myself I am not sure how I manage to but I generally don't drink them for 6 months to a year. The plan is usually to drink 1 or 2 at 3 months if its amazing its good to go but usually its wait another couple of months drink one or two if its amazing its good to go or wait a few more months. Most beers its 6 months the big dopplebocks seem to take close to a year to get where they are best. On another note it is sad to hear that BPGreen is not really around much anymore.
  8. Thanks for the advice. The reason for the malt is while I was looking for stuff on dunkelweizen I came across Weizenbock which sounded extremely similar and I am much more comfortable brewing bocks then hefs. So I used the steeping malts and hops I use in my bocks though I opted for chocolate wheat in place of just regular chocolate seemed more to style. My lagering fridge can only hold 1 lbk at a time and if I were to do a weizenbock it would be a couple of months. My past wheat beers have all been drinkable but not good. I also wasn't sure if I should use Hallertauer or a different hops that would go more with the style. Though the link Gymrat posted uses Hallertauer so I guess I am on the right track. So trying to stay in style guidlines I know I am over in the SG but I can either use some Special B or change the crystal to 75 without going to far over, though if I change nothing then I am at the very top of the color scale. Do you have any experience with Wyeast 3463? I was wondering how it would compare to 3068. Thanks again for the advice!
  9. This is what I have so far 3lbs Wheat DME .25 lbs crystal 10 L steeped .25 lbs chocolate wheat malt steeped .5 oz Hallertauer for 60 min Wyeast 3463 I want to try my hand at a Dunkelweizen but I can't find a whole lot of info on them aside from the fact that they are a dark wheat usually with hints of chocolate. Any suggestions on different steeping grains, hops, or yeast feel free to comment. I have never had a Dunkelweizen I just like darker beers. Thanks
  10. So I figure I should post an update on the off chance anyone who had read this and commented still cared. Funny thing is it did turn out to be my best brew at the time. The first few were ok so I let them sit for 6 more months and then it was amazing.
  11. I have a few questions for the borg and I will explain the reason for the recipe as it stands after I post the ingredient list The current evolution 5 is 1 can WCPA 1 lb amber DME 1 cup brown sugar 1/2 cup honey(clove, orange blossom, or Aguangan Blossom) 1/2 TBSP zested ginger root .25 oz glacier at 30 min .25 oz glacier at 20 min .7 oz glacier at 7 min and fermentis safeale us 05 What different strains of yeast would you suggest? Also I would like to steep some grains with this as well any suggestions? This was the first beer I brewed using the WCPA and me and a friend decided instead of booster we would use alternative sugar sources because we would rather use honey and brown sugar then corn sugar. It was ok, the second one had no sugar but DME and was thought to be worse then the first by many, the third evolution added the sugar to the dme and switched to using US 05 instead of the standard mr beer yeast, the fourth evolution pitted a batch with cascade against a batch with glacier against a batch with centennial trying to get all of the beers as balanced on the hops/malt scale as possible while making sure each had a 20 minute flavor hop. Glacier won though centennial came in a close second. The fifth evolution is in the LBK now 3 batches all with different honeys, clove honey, orange blossom, and Aguangan Blossom. All previous batches were made with the clove honey the 4th evolution winner tasted exactly like a local brew and I know they use clove honey and it had a slight taste I don't like which I think is the clove. So this one is honey. If the taste is still there I will know its the ginger root I don't like and that won't be in the next batch. The 6th evolution I would like to either steep different grains or use different yeasts and then the 7th evolution will use the other one. I know there is alot of sugar which is part of the reason I went into the explanation so you understand why it is there. Thanks for the suggestions.
  12. .25 oz Hallertauer for 45 min boil.
  13. I use a Johnson controller on my mini fridge for fermenting all my lagers, which tend to be bocks or dopplebocks
  14. As someone that went mad scientist right out of the gate with only the information mr beer provides with their starter kits I can tell you that while using sugar or honey can be a good thing, usually when you are trying to thin a big beer, however your best bet would be to add DME or LME. If you use too much you will need to add some hops to help balance it out. Also I am not advocating using sugar I am just saying it does have its place.
  15. I am not sure what the hops smell like but they are still green. I'll crack one of the bags open and see what it smells like. There being no Linebacker replacement is kind of sad it was probably my favorite. NWPA being better then WCPA however is good news. Thanks guys!
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