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JerseyBrewer

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About JerseyBrewer

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  1. I'll throw in my 2 cents.... Bayou Classic for $53 This will do a couple nice things for you: 1) It is 30 quarts which is about the minimum for a 5 gallon boil. Keep in mind, when you do a 5 gallon boil you usually start with 6 gallons and boil off 1 gallon before you are finished. 2) When you do a 5 gallon boil in a 6/7 gallon pot, your #1 risk is a boil over. What is nice about this kit is you can do your boils outside (imagine a boil over in your kitchen!?!?!?). 3) The kit is flexible should you want to boil some clams, oysters, lobsters, crabs or whatever else you wanted to boil in the summer. Keep us posted on how things progress. PS - Keep in mind, you get what you pay for. When I bought mine, it arrived the pot had minor dents and hardly looked prestine. However, it is still a very functional 30 quart pot with a propane burner setup. PSS - I almost forgot, it comes with it's own thermometer which mounts on the brew pot, another bonus.
  2. So my first brew is about consumed and I realized that although my first brew did taste quite delicious, it really could have used another week or two fermenting and in the conditioning stage. The 2-2-2 is definitely a bare minimum. High Country Canadian is up next.
  3. LaraK3 wrote: Now I feel pretty ignorant. Trub? I'm guessing that that it build-up/ waste in the bottom? Yes.
  4. Honestly, if all you did was the WCPA plus one package of booster and kept the keg at a temperature range between 66-72, two weeks should be enough. At this point, if I were I would bottle and I will defend this recommendation as 'sweet' can be a relative term; what is sweet to one may not be that sweet to another. Here are some other questions: 1) How do you feel about your sanitization job? 2) Did you take any liberties with instructions? Maybe added some honey or something else? Good luck!
  5. If the concept of being a beer-brewing addict with the majority your time and money being completely consumed by the hobby does not appeal to you, you only need to ferment for 3 days and bottle for 3 days. However, if it does appeal to you than follow the directions, concentrate on doing a good sanitization job and do the 2-2-2 format and you will have great beer and a new hobby!
  6. There are a lot of variables, but maybe you used the right amount of priming sugar but didn't leave enough space? Seems wierd there was enough force to shatter the glass, but not enough force to to blow the caps off.
  7. yankeedag wrote: Can you say: "Resistance is Futile"? Sounds like someone just got assimilated into the BeerBorg. You have beer. :stout: Resistance is most definitely Futile.:in:
  8. Let me first say, I was a bit skeptical about the West Coast Pale Ale (with booster) and it was a home brew from Mr. Beer. Secondly, I have found very few Pale Ale's that I like. I figured many of the borg got caught up with the concept of the beer being 'theirs' and much of the enthusiasm was just hyperbole. Low and behold, MrBeer’s West Coast Pale Ale is a pretty good tasting beer. I was seriously impressed! Not only was the process simple and fun, it was genuinely good tasting beer.
  9. Gymrat wrote: Jersybrewer I have used both booster and UME, plus a little brown sugar for some really good tasting beer with a nice kick :gulp: We could probably drink together. I see no reason the booster should not be added to any standard or deluxe recipe, so my next order I am ordering a box of the booster.
  10. Winningjob wrote: WOW....Talk about a LOT of stirring! I am wondering if anyone has tried an electric mixer? In short, yes. There is some good information in the following links.Stirring Vigorously and then my follow up... The Follow Up
  11. gophers6 wrote: I've often wondered how it works for a brewer with multiple sites. For example Bud has a brewery in New Hampshire and Missouri. Wouldn't the beer taste a little different from each because of the different water supply? I think I read somewhere that it is easier to put minerals in (into soft water) than to take minerals out. I wouldn't be surprised if a larger brewery actually purified (or contracted out their own water purifying) and then added certain minerals to their water.
  12. A quick google and I found this page which (although not validated), sounds to be far more creditable than my own opinion. Brewing with HardSoft Water
  13. gophers6 wrote: Gallons of spring water are less than $1. Not worth taking a chance at ruining your beer if your tap is questionable. And don't use water that's been through reverse osmosis. It removes the good minerals. Actually, I think the reverse osmosis puts all the minerals and nutrients back into the water. It seems I framed the concept of 'hard water' in a negative light. Actually, I believe the ‘hard water’ is a very good thing for beer.Here is my humble opinion based on the individual research I have done…and that research is dated and old so I may not have this exactly right. Hard water is full of lots of good minerals and nutrients for drinking. I can only assume this is also true for brewing beer! The negative aspect of hard water is it tends to be very corrosive on water pipes. Therefore, a lot of big cities soften their water before it enters city pipes as it reduces the frequency at which your local city has to replace andor repair and damaged water pipes. I don’t live in a big city, so I have pure natural and delicious hard water with all sorts of delicious minerals and nutrients coming right up to my door. Yummy! But to protect my house from potential (and inevitable) water damage from corroded and ruptured pipes, I had a water softener installed to protect my house. Ideally, I should have a reverse osmosis on my facet so it can replenish my water with all those healthy minerals and nutrients as it exits the water pipes and into my house for consumption. However, I do not. I suspect most of the ‘spring water’ is unfiltered and ‘supposedly’ fairly natural…as well as hard.
  14. Because beer is about 70% water, anybody experiment with different bottled water? I am fairly skeptical about bottled water (Deer Park, Poland, etc...) as I feel the regulations regarding these products are fairly liberal. Because my tap water is extremely hard and we have a water softener with no reverse osmosis (SP???), I have been using bottled water for my brews. Do you use your own tap water? Have you had your tap water tested? Do you prefer a particular brand of bottled water? Just curious.
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