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About dpip75

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  1. I start with 3.5 gallons. Boil down to 2.5 or close to it. I don't really stress it as long as it is close. I think the top of the Q is 2.5. That is how little the difference is.
  2. I always rack my beer after primary then dry hop. No bottling problems. Better beer from moving to a secondary keg. I wait five to seven days before racking.
  3. I just use a five gallon pot. I collect 3.5gal of wort and boil down to 2.5 gal. That is up to the Bottom of the word Quart on your Mr. Beer keg. I just pour until there is just sludge. I might get a keggle from my lhbs. If I bring him a keg shell he will have one made for me for only 25 dollars. I wouldn't worry about a thermometer on the pot. One can make great beer with a digital probe thermometer ($9.99). I mean just boil the beer right? Lol! Hoppy brewing Header75. By the way 75 is a good # I named one of my amber ales 1975, tribute to the year I was hurled onto this rock.
  4. First i must ask is the reason for spigot because of weight and pouring issues or keeping the residual turd out of your keg? I would not waste the time or effort. More than likely you will soon move onto a bigger pot, so just wait. Pouring everything into the ferm. keg is not a bad thing. Use half of a whirfloc tablet at the last 15 min of boil. More importantly, after 5 to 7 days please drain from one keg to a clean one. This is key for a great brew. You can dry hop or spice here if desired. Also prevents off flavors from primary yeast cake. Hope I helped.
  5. Lovely beer you have there. I bet it tastes just as good as it looks too. Cheers! :chug:
  6. I did a 60 min continuous hop APA with Centennials on the 4th of July. I did a first wort hop for the bittering and then scheduled out a certain weight within certain times throughout the hour. I broke pellets and dropped in hops the whole 60 min. It was fun and smelled great! The beer is now in the secondary after dry hopping with 1oz of Centennials. Can't wait to taste this one.
  7. Sounds great! I love Simcoe hops! Doesn't it feel great to brew a really good beer? Share some pictures. :chug:
  8. Here is a red ale recipe. batch size 2.4 gallons. That is at the bottom of the Q on the keg. Yeast: 1/2 of a sachet of Safale US 05 1 can of Bewitched Red Ale HME 1.5# amber DME .25# crystal 20 .25# carapils 1 oz Hallertau bring 1.25 gallons of water up to 160 and drop in your grains. Steep for 30 minutes and maintain at 150 to 160 degrees. remove grains and place in a strainer over your pot. Then run clean 170 degree water very slowly over your grains. 4 quarts is plenty. Bring you water up to a boil remove from heat and add your DME and mix well return to heat and wait for the hot break. Do not leave the stove after adding your DME. boil for at least 30 min or an hour. Remove from heat and add the Mr. beer HME and finishing hops. Hope this helps. I have more recipes if you want them.
  9. Welcome!! :woohoo: You can read recipes on this sight or others and then get a better idea of how to create a recipe. You can use DME and steep some grains (carapils and maybe some crystal malt) with your Mr. Beer ingredients. You can also do a finishing or a dry hop. The limit is endless when it comes to making beer. Go for it and have fun! :chug:
  10. I am putting it in the mini fridge when I get the temp right. In the meantime I am chilling the keg in the fridge so I can pitch 1/2 os the 11.5 gram pack of yeast. Or should I just pitch the whole thing for 2.4 gallons? That seems a bit much to me, and I don't want any eruptions ya know. :laugh: Any way thanks for the encouragement, and it smells wonderful in here! Starting another brew know! :woohoo: :chug: :party:
  11. I am doing a Cowboy golden lager refill using 1# of pilsen light DME, 1# extra light DME, mashed .25# crystal 20, .25# carapils, 1.5 oz of centennial hops, and Saflager S-23. I am doing the boil now and so far i have had to extend the boiling time due to too much water and no hot break yet. Going for 90 min. Adding the cowboy HME at the end. Going to drop centennials the last 20 minutes continually.
  12. bpgreen wrote: What's the humidity like where you are? If the humidity is low, you can use the "wet t shirt) approach that works in much the same way that a swamp cooler works. Basically, you put the fermenter in a pan of some sort (maybe a cheap aluminum pan from the dollar store), put some water in it and drape a cloth over the fermenter, with the ends sticking in the water. The water wicks up the cloth and evaporates, cooling off the fermenter. It might cool a little where the humidity is higgher, simply because of the water, but in low humidity areas, it can drop the temps pretty dramatically. You got it right bpgreen. I take the shirts off at night because it does get down to 69 or 70 degrees with the ac running.
  13. bigd wrote: dpip75 wrote: Congratulations Dave! How is being preggo going? The name's Doug The wife is doing good thanks for asking. Only 8 more weeks left :woohoo:DUH!!! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: My bad bud! I know your name is doug. I sincerely apologize. Too much partying in the past does that. I call my kids the wrong name all the time. :laugh: Glad to hear everything is good. The best day of your life is right around the corner. :chug:
  14. I have central air and it is still so hot out side it struggles to keep the apt at 78 so I use the this method. I drape the wet shirts on the kegs during the hotter hours of the day. I have an inch of water in the containers and I rotate a frozen jug of water at the beginning of the day or whenever the melt. Kegs are staying in the low 60's.
  15. Carboys are clear. Just keep them out of bright light. Brew City, I believe Yankeedag cold crashes with the slimline.
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