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dpip75

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Everything posted by dpip75

  1. otg wrote: What I want to know is where you found Strisselspalt hops. http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-ingredients/hops/pellet-hops/french-strisselspalt-pellets-1-oz.html Or any online store.
  2. I have been following this post David and I can't wait for some results! I know how it feels sometimes I feel that My posts go unnoticed as well. :laugh: How long are you going to cold crash?
  3. formula for FG: OG divided by 4 = FG example: OG 1.066 you would divide 4 into 66 and get 16.5 I round up to 17. So now you take OG and subtract the estimated FG take that answer and multiply by 131 and you get ABV% example: 1.066 - 1.017 = 0.049 x 131 = 6.419 = 6.4%
  4. Also you should maybe buy a bottling bucket. This is good for batch priming. I also use one even when I don't batch prime. I like to use Coopers carb drops. They are easy and efficient. You will find what is best for you in time. Bottling wands with a locking spigot are key. If you don't have one, order one today. Here is my bottling technique.
  5. Your ABV is at 6.4%. Most of my brews range from 5.9% to 9%. I would say you have a little big beer. :laugh: I like the 6 range for easy drinking. :gulp:
  6. I would move the keg to the fridge for three days and let the beer settle. This is called cold crashing. It does not hurt the yeast. It will give you a clearer beer. I always do this.
  7. swenocha wrote: You could always go for the Dogfish Head 60 min IPA clone hop schedule from BYO (I'm thinking of trying this): Hop Schedule (for 5 gal) - 60 IBU 3/4 oz. - Warrior - 60 to 35 min. continuous* 1/3 oz. - Simcoe - 35 to 25 min. continuous* 3/4 oz. - Palisade - 25 to 0 min. continuous* 1/2 oz. - Amarillo - dry hop 1/2 oz. - Simcoe - dry hop 1/2 oz. - Glacier - dry hop * slowly add the measured amount of hops over the time listed into the boil Awesome info! I love that beer. Now if I could just find the clone for Founders Centennial IPA, I would be set for life. :laugh: Also when I read your recipe, I knew the citra would be strong. It is like grapefruit BIG time! I would def want the centennial to be the forefront, but citra is so strong it might be better without or very little. I was thinking your thought about simcoe instead of citra is right on my friend. Either way it sounds great. I love citra hops!
  8. panchor wrote: I have been using my Mr Beer fermenter for 2 years now and I made 26 batches of beer so far. And I was wondering, do I need to replace my fermenter some time? Do they get worned out? First, 2 yrs and only 26 batches? You either just have one keg or don't brew that often. Second "worned out"... that aint right. :laugh: Alonzo is right if it doesn't leak, your golden. Keep that pipeline flowing buddy! :chug:
  9. I think besides the water, ones yeast selection is the most important ingredient. A good bread company keeps their yeast on lock down. :laugh: I would maybe sub amber DME for the booster/brown sugar and use a wyeast American ale 1056. Not saying your beer is not good my friend, but I bet your Trilby would kick some ask me no more questions even more than it does now. Also try a dry hop with your hops. I love a nice aroma of hops with a nutty brown ale. Here is a pic. of my brown ale Apophis. This is a beer for the gods my friend. I have a recipe post on here and let me tell you my friend it is a winner. I used Magnum for 60 min, Simcoe for 15 min, and Citra at flame out. I then dry hopped w/ Simcoe. The citra hops give a citrus nose on top of toasty, nutty, chocolate aromas. then you get a pine and citrus flavor followed by the malts.I also batch primed with all natural unfiltered honey. :gulp:
  10. FedoraDave wrote: Beer volcanoes happen, for a variety of reasons, I suppose. I think you probably hit on one or two conditions that would cause it in your case. I've had it happen (blew a flippie across the kitchen), and I think that particular bottle was too warm when I opened it. I've also had it happen due to uneven batch priming; I always drain one gallon from the keg into the bucket then add the priming sugar mixture, and then drain the rest, for better mixture. I think excess trub can also cause it. Fortunately, I've had few volcanoes, and I haven't had any bottle grenades yet. I still put my newly bottled batches in a plastic garbage bag, though, just in case. I experienced uneven carbing with batch priming this week. I tested my Oktoberfest and it was a fair head with no lacing. The next one was awesome with a nice thick creamy head. The third one was flat. I am about to open another. Good thing I made a 4.8 gallon batch. First pour Second pour
  11. Hey Ron whatever works at that moment is good enough. I just built a mash tun, so I think I may be trying some all grain brews. It was cheap and easy to make. I have a post with pics about one week or so ago. Check it out. :chug:
  12. dpip75

    Black IPA

    I did that once with leftovers that I carefully blended and it may be the best beer to date. It is a brown ale that has a strong hoppy nose of Citra and Simcoe. I dry hopped with the simcoe. I think you would love it. Especially if you love burpin' them hops! :laugh: How is the wife durin? More important, how are you durin? Hang in there brother, when your son is born all the BS with the pregnancy is well worth it. Heck I would do it again..... maybe. :laugh:
  13. Krausen is good. I wanted to tell you to sparge your grains until it runs almost clear so you get all the goodness. This sparging is called a partial mash my friend. When I sparge this is what I do. In a separate pot from steep, Place a strainer with grains in it and 1 cup at a time run 170 degree water over your grains. Then use all of the second runnings instead of just plain water. :cheers:
  14. dpip75

    Black IPA

    Sounds GREAT bigd! I love brew day! I am wanting to brew something close to founders Centennial IPA. I can't find any clones. Have you?
  15. Jcmccoy wrote: Just bottled this up today I went out and bought a bag of coopers carbonation drops to make bottling easier. I have two kegs so I normally bottle prime one batch and batch prime with the 2nd keg open. The carb drops were great it made the whole bottle priming process so much faster and easier. The smell of the brew was a roasty coffee, the taste was quite hoppy. I will let this one age for several months before drinking, I will be popping the tester bottle in 2 weeks though I will post a pic. Thanks again for all the help :stout: Hell yeah bud! I love the drops! I also like to batch prime with honey. I bet only a few survive till winter. :laugh: :chug:
  16. Honestly I tried one seven days after bottling, and was shocked how good it was. Good luck. :chug:
  17. Brew City wrote: dpip - I've gone back through the threads that you've talked about this Imperial Chocolate Stout. It sounds good and I'd like to give it a try. Two things that I wanted to know from your brew - what was the volume of your steep and what amount of the chocolate caramel coffee did you use? One more thing on the coffee - did you just get the whole beans or did you get readily ground coffee? Well Brew City, first I used 1.25 gallons to steep my grains. Second I used 1 oz. of whole bean slightly crushed in a muslin sack. The brand is Cameron's (Chocolate Caramel Brownie). MMMMM!!! I have 2 packs in my freezer just for this brew. :laugh: It does taste like a rich chocolate cake!!! Did you find the recipe?
  18. I like your recipe! I hate SA BBW though. I would say the reason for yours having more mouth feel is that it's a HOMEBREW! Less refined and all that crap. Even though SA is a "craft brewer" they do want to be more "user" friendly to make MORE MONEY. I really like the Coastal Wheat, Noble pils, Irish red, Oktoberfest and the winter lager. I am done ranting, too much coffee this morning. :laugh:
  19. Tindel wrote: So, how much did this cost? I'm looking to make a better mash tun. Well considering the 5 gallon water cooler was $23.00, but it was free, and the parts were around ten bucks. So if I would have been charged for the cooler I would say 10 to 15 bucks. I think I will put a pipe in the middle of my manifold for more drainage. as you can see the void in the middle of the square.
  20. Good to hear. All my dark beers have been good as well. :chug:
  21. Use Honey to batch prime. I use http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html?12014981#tag to get my amount. For a 2.4 gal batch I use 2.25 to 2.5 oz of honey with equal parts H2O. bring to boil in micro then let cool to 80ish. I batch prime so this is easy. :chug:
  22. This is what I have harvested. The two jars with blue tops is what I harvested out of one keg.
  23. I like to use all shapes and sizes. I have a couple Sierra Nevada Pale ale bombers, and a Magic Hat bomber. I found a Trappist ale called Orval, and the bottle is really neat.
  24. coulter wrote: Hmmm, well I better try one first and make sure they don't volcano then go from there. Good idea about mixing half and half. I definitely wouldn't have thought about that. You mentioned carb drops. How do those work and is that better then putting in the sugar? carb drops are straight, but batch priming gives you less trub in the bottles. Plus I like to use Local all natural unfiltered honey to batch prime. Here is a picture of a honey primed beer.
  25. I did a black Belgian ale with Wyeast Belgian Saison 3724. Sarcophagus
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