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Husteak

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About Husteak

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. Slurries (Harvested yeast and water) should be kept in a refrigerator until brewing day. They should be taken out of fridge several hours before pitching to come back to room temp - or as close to pitching temp as possible. Then shake...measure out desired amount, and put the rest back in the fridge. There should be no need to 'rehydrate' liquid yeast as they are well hydrated.... They are in Water! :cheer: Maybe you were trying to 'activate' them like rehydrating dry yeast does? There is no need for that with liquid yeast. The lag time with liquid yeast is due to yeast having to multiply to the desired amount or 'count' of yeast needed to ferment the brew. If you use the proper amount of your slurry...there should be little to no lag time. 75 sounds too hot. Most yeast are best around 65 to 69 degrees (ales of course). Read the yeast label to know the temp range for sure. Best to pitch on the lower end of the range. Edit: After I reread the entire thread...were you just asking how to "rehydrate" dry yeast? If so - read the how to brew link that Pakerduf linked. I just pitch the dry yeast and skip the rehydrating part. Never had a problem.
  2. flyingbeernurd wrote: Thanks guys! Yeah, rehydrating is all I have time for now! You don't need to make starters for dry yeast. And for MB size batches...you would only need a starter for high gravity brews... 1.060+
  3. There are many videos on Youtube for making a yeast starter.
  4. Give John Palmers "How to Brew" a read...it's free HERE. This should help with all those questions. Here is Palmers take on heat sanitizing/sterilizing: Heat Heat is one of the few means by which the homebrewer can actually sterilize an item. Why would you need to sterilize an item? Homebrewers that grow and maintain their own yeast cultures want to sterilize their growth media to assure against contamination. When a microorganism is heated at a high enough temperature for a long enough time it is killed. Both dry heat (oven) and steam (autoclave, pressure cooker or dishwasher) can be used for sanitizing. Oven Dry heat is less effective than steam for sanitizing and sterilizing, but many brewers use it. The best place to do dry heat sterilization is in your oven. To sterilize an item, refer to the following table for temperatures and times required. Table 3 - Dry Heat SterilizationTemperature Duration 338°F (170°C) 60 minutes 320°F (160°C) 120 minutes 302°F (150°C) 150 minutes 284°F (140°C) 180 minutes 250°F (121°C) 12 hours (Overnight) The times indicated begin when the item has reached the indicated temperature. Although the durations seem long, remember this process kills all microorganisms, not just most as in sanitizing. To be sterilized, items need to be heat-proof at the given temperatures. Glass and metal items are prime candidates for heat sterilization. Some homebrewers bake their bottles using this method and thus always have a supply of clean sterile bottles. The opening of the bottle can be covered with a piece of aluminum foil prior to heating to prevent contamination after cooling and during storage. They will remain sterile indefinitely if kept wrapped. One note of caution: bottles made of soda lime glass are much more susceptible to thermal shock and breakage than those made of borosilicate glass and should be heated and cooled slowly (e.g. 5 °F per minute). You can assume all beer bottles are made of soda lime glass and that any glassware that says Pyrex or Kimax is made of borosilicate.
  5. Palmer also said that Honey is difficult to prime with: "Honey is difficult to prime with because there is no standard for concentration. The gravity of honey is different jar to jar."
  6. I have batch primed since my second batch. Here is the method that works for me: I go to either This site or This site to calculate the amount of priming sugar to use. I use corn sugar. Lately I have been using the Beersmith software to do the calculation. I weigh out the amount of sugar from the calculator using my scale. Pour the sugar into one cup of water in small pot. Boil for 15 minutes to pasteurize. Once that is finished I put the pot into the sink with ice water to cool. After the mixture is cooled to roughly room temp, I pour it into my sanitized bottling bucket. I then rack the brew into the bucket (using the spigot/gravity/and sanitized tubing). Once the brew is all racked into bottling bucket, I gently rotate the bucket to help mix the sugar and brew well. I then let the brew sit for 15-20 minutes to allow any trub that made it through to resettle in the bottom of the bucket. Then I bottle using a sanitized bottling wand.
  7. BugLaden wrote: Certainly! Making inverted sugar Very interesting.... Thanks!
  8. Interesting. Did you read about the lemon making the sugar non-fermentable? If so, could you please share this documentation? Please keep us informed on how this one turns out.
  9. StarRaptor wrote: 1.50 lb Crystal 60L Grain Steeped 1.00 lb Light DME Extract Extract 12.00 lb Light LME Extract Extract Daaaannnngggg that is a lot of LME....12lbs....WoW! It is a barley wine, but man that sounds like a lot of LME....even for a 5 gal batch. You have a nice bit of IBU's to offset all that malt though. How did that turn out? :dry:
  10. Also - Here is a link to another data base thread here on the MB forum. I don't know if it is as up to date as Screwy's, but it should help.
  11. Try going to his site first...click Here Then find the data base link...right click...select 'save link as'
  12. I use the yeast pitching calculator from Mr. Malty (Jamil)... HERE is the link. FYI - I plugged your numbers... OG 1.077 for 5.5gal - gave calculation of 1.4 11g packets.
  13. I've never re-hydrated my dry yeast...so I don't really know. I just pour on top of aerated wort...wait 5-15 min...whisk like crazy...then let her go. Wonder if I could use the words "I think" any more in my last post. Mulitasking.....
  14. rob92307 wrote: Well I was trying to follow the directions in How to Brew on the yeast and they called for 95-105 range. What you are saying makes more sense to me though. Keep it close to the fermentation temp. I wonder why the book calls for such a high temp. I think I'll stick to what you guys are telling me though. Thanks! Palmer is one of the best, and I am not doubting him in any way, but I think that dry yeast has come a long way since he wrote that book. I also think that he would agree with that. I think that I misunderstood what you were saying also. I thought you were pitching at that temp also, and that would be too high.
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