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melbaLT4

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About melbaLT4

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  1. Sorry for replying so late, been at the ranch w/ no internet. I usually set my base malt to within in 5% of my OG and then go from there. Depending on the rest of my grain bill the gravity may change a bit so I give myself some room to work with.
  2. Wells here's the way I do it. (sorry for posting this step by step but if I don't will forget something) First I open up Qbrew or Beer Smith and make a beer profile. Then I set my batch size (6 gal for me). I then increase the 2-row, extract, or other base malt described in the recipe until my OG comes into range. This is usually 2-row in AG recipes, but even if I am converting to extract I will create the Ag recipe first. Then lets say your 2-row came in at 9lbs and you know that it was 75% of your grist then you entire grain bill is 12lbs. Now that you have a starting point you can calculate the rest of your grist. This will get you close enough to brew or give you a jumping off point for more tweaking.
  3. melbaLT4

    Dead Guy Ale

    Ok here we go. However, after listening to the ins and outs of brewing this beer from interviews with John Maier I have altered this recipe a little, but I will post it the way I obtained it originally. 5 Gallons - mini mash OG 1.067 FG 1.017 ABV 6.6% 7# Extra Pale LME 1.25# Two Row 0.75# Caramunich 0.75# Munich 0.5# Carapils 1.5oz Perle (60min) 0.5oz Saaz (15min) Mash grains (in grain bag) in 2 gallons @ 155* for 45 min. After soaking grains dunk up and down, and rinse with 2 quarts of 170* water. Bring to a boil and brew as usual. Yeast: Wyeast 1764 Pacman Wyeast 1272 American Ale II White Labs WLP 051 California Ale V Nottingham Ale (dry) Now the things I have changed are the Saaz hops to Sterling. Dead Guy was originally brewed with US Saaz not Czech, but when they became unavailable they switched to Sterling and these are what they are currently using. I know there is little difference between the two but since I can get them I use them. Rather than the Crystal 40 I use Carastan (Rouge uses Great Western C15 but I can't source that so this is basically the same). And I add 1/2# Carapils for a litle head retention. Alright so there it is, I think this is also my current repeater so let me know what you think. Oh and I really think that the Pacman yeast is the way to go, I have said it many times but it is Awesome yeast very fast, clean, tasty, and I think it really takes this beer up a notch. If yo ucan find it the White Labs Calafornia Ale V it really good too, low ester, low diacetyl, that would be my second choice. So let me know what you think a little feed back would be much appreciated.
  4. melbaLT4

    Dead Guy Ale

    Oh and Austin Homebrew Supply keeps pacman on hand for $8.99/pack and $7.99 flat rate shipping.
  5. melbaLT4

    Dead Guy Ale

    I ordered the minimash kit for this from Austin homebrew with the pacman yeast and they gave three alternatives yeasts on the sheet, but of course I went with pacman and I am glad I did it was AWESOME yeast. We don't live far from Austin so I pick up a pack anytime I drive through, its now my house yeast. Anyway back to topic, I have the recipe sheet at home and when I get home I will post the alternative they listed. I can also post the recipe if yall would like.
  6. +1 on the water. Hard water will cause the solution to cloud up but it still works just the same. It will also haze some plastics and tubing but it is only cosmetic and a quick rinse in bleach water takes it right off. As far as it being good for he yeast, I have some yeast energizer for wine making with the same ingredients as the actives in star san so I never rinse the foam. But hey if you don't like it and have something you do like that perfect. That's what this is all about anyway. I mean I'm the dork who can't figure out how to use a racking cane! :laugh:
  7. ^^ +1 What they said. Same reason you don't boil with a lid.
  8. I have read that, but I never do. Mostly because I am lazy and it would mean removing the gas QD and putting a liquid QD on the CO2 line and I just never take the time. However, I had a friend who did this and took the hose of the regulator before removing the QD from the post and lost about 3 gallons of beer to the floor before he figured out what was going on. Definitely not the way he should have done it but if he had done it on the gas side he would have lost mostly gas. Bottom line take the QD off the post first, and dont forget to switch them back. As far as bubbling the CO2 through the beer or letting the surface exchange the gas, it shouldnt make any difference all the bubbling does is disturb the surface so gas exchange can happen, there is no (not much) exchange happening as it passes through the beer. The way I have found it to work best for me is to just put in my over pressure and gently rock the keg as many times a day as I remember. This way I can also test the carb level as I go. The other thing that I see with this is unless you are filtering your beer you may disturb the trub depending on how long it has settled. By the way filtering is awesome!
  9. Yeah the yeast LOVE the foam, it work as a nutrient/energizer I never rise and it always turns out great.
  10. Thanks! I was really hoping that I wasn't missing something obvious. So I was thinking of using Saflager W-34/70, and fermenting at about 53* until 90% complete, then doing a diacetyl rest for 2 days or so and lagering at 45* for 4 weeks. It seems pretty straight forward, but since this is my first any help would be greatly appreciated.
  11. So I got my lagering setup completed today and I have a premium refill of the Pilothouse Pilsner handy. Do you think this would work as an actual lager. I'd think for this using something safe such as Saflager would be ok. Any reason this wouldn't be an awesome first try at a lager?
  12. More space and equipment aren't necessary. It can be done in a mason jar on the counter, that's how I did it the first time. I only have one stir-plate so if I am doing more than one batch at a time I still do it with a mason jar and a foil lid.
  13. If you want to go with liquid yeast you could pitch the whole vial or pack without much excitment. The smack packs and the vials really still need a starter before being pitched. You could pitch to 5gal without but in the name of the best beer possible starters are where it is at. MrMalty.com will confirm this. If you got a vial of Whitelabs yeast you could shake it up and pitch half of it to a starter, and screw the cap back on and keep the other half in the fridge for the next batch. I think half a vial in a starter is perfect for a Mr. Beer size batch, OR you could just pitch the whole vial without a starter and be fine too. Really anything you want, it will still be beer!!
  14. I was listening to that podcast the other day and thought "Yay another chance to be lazy!"
  15. Thanks for all the input! Hopefully the low diacetyl production and the temp only being that high couple of hours will save me from too many off flavors to condition out. I just checked the temp in my container and it is 63* so I think I am going to be ok. If this works out well I may just use this as my house yeast.
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