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Everything posted by packerduf

  1. packerduf

    Has anyone

    Haven't tried that recipe, so not much help here. Steam beers are typically made with lager yeast, but fermented at ale temperatures. According to the Mr. Beer instructions, the ideal fermenting temp for the Sutter's Gold recipe is 62°F.
  2. Welcome aBorg, Matt!!! Sounds like you are on a roll. Be sure to let us know how that BIAB turns out.
  3. How Big Does My Mash Tun Need to Be?
  4. I wish I was drinking a Tabacker! I think when they "finalize" the search engine function, we'll be much happier with the forum overall. At least I know I will. It currently doesn't work very well.
  5. kjuckett1025, Did you brew the lager recipe already?
  6. The search window is at the very top of the page, just under where your name/log out is listed. I don't think you have to be logged in to use it.
  7. Was your bottling bucket much lower than your fermenter (gravity)? Edit: Specifically, you can't set them next to each other, at the same level (height).
  8. +1 to yankeedag's wisdom. The bottling wand is worth it's weight in gold. It will ensure the proper amount of beer in each bottle every time, and it is very inexpensive. A good investment, indeed.
  9. I also have the Barley Crusher and I am very happy with it. I bought it at beersmith.com
  10. I typically get 18-19 12 oz. bottles. A few times I achieved 20 bottles. I tend to leave a little beer behind for the sake of avoiding the trub.
  11. I have only brewed one lager recipe, so I am certainly no authority on the subject. I did a lot of research where I found varying opinions on the subject. I also solicited some advice from a very trusted source, and he guided me thru the process (thanks, oly). I didn't take any shortcuts. It was a long process, which included 3 months conditioning in a secondary. I chose to keg it and force carb. In the end, my "All-American Lager" turned out great, even better than expected. You will need to make a few determinations prior to brew-day: Will you warm pitch or cold pitch? How will you maintain a fermentation temperature within the recommended range? Will you use a secondary? My son just arrived from Wisconsin, so I must go. I'll dig up my notes and share them later. Don't start the lager until you settle on your process. Continue to research via internet, and ask a lot of questions. Others will most likely post their opinions/advice.
  12. The temperature range for the Bavarian Lager yeast is 46 - 58 degrees. I would highly recommend staying within that range.
  13. I would recommend using the entire amount of the Bavarian Lager Yeast with the Oktoberfest standard refill. Lagers require a higher cell count to ensure proper fermentation. Keep in mind, when using lager yeast, you will need to ferment at lager temperatures. If this is your first attempt at a lager, then some preliminary research will pay huge dividends. Edit: If the Bavarian Lager Yeast is used, do not use the packet of dry yeast under the lid. You can save it for a later brew.
  14. Mr. Beer recommends 3/4 tsp. per 12 oz. bottle, and 2.5 tsp. per liter. You need not worry about bottle-bombs when using these amounts. Back when I bottle-primed, I always primed with the amount recommended by Mr. Beer and I was happy with the results. Some brewers prefer a lower level of carbonation and therefore use a lesser amount. It all comes down to personal taste.
  15. Back in the day, Mr. Beer provided two washers with each spigot; one for the inside of the LBK, and one for the outside. I found the use of two washers to be unnecessary, and I now only place one washer between the spigot and the outside of the LBK. If you have the older spigot, then just use one of the two washers from that. If you have the newer spigot, and only received one washer, then you'll have to contact Mr. Beer customer service and have one sent to you.
  16. I have yet to brew the Patriot Lager, but I agree with robertl6. The standard refills are good straight up, but even better when you add 1/2 lb. (or so) of DME or LME.
  17. No worries. Back when I bottle-primed, I would typically use 1 tsp. of priming sugar per 12 oz. bottle for all my wheat beers. I know someone (a member of this forum) who bottle-primes all his brews with 1 tsp. per 12 oz. bottle.
  18. It really depends on what hops and yeast are used.
  19. LBKs do not make good secondaries due to excessive head-space. But, as stated above, secondaries are rarely necessary anyway. Dry hopping, adding fruit, and long-term bulk-conditioning (i.e. lagers) are all possible exceptions.
  20. Welcome to the forum!!! Mastering the basics will pay huge dividends in the end. Proper sanitation, temperature control, and patience are of the greatest importance.
  21. Welcome to the forum!!! Adding 1/2 - 3/4 lbs. Golden Light DME to the Canadian Blonde HME makes for a great lager-like summer beer.
  22. Welcome to the forum!!! :chug: You must still add sugar when you bottle to properly carbonate your beer in the bottle. For future reference, your beer will benefit by substituting DME or LME in place of the sugar. Specifically, adding DME/LME will add body, flavor, and ABV. The sugar will bump your ABV, but tends to thin out the beer and potentially give it a cider taste. Regardless, you will still add the sugar at bottling time for carbonation).
  23. "psbeerkeeper" post=378335 said:How long should I let this ferment in my primary fermenter? I don't have a secondary, and I hope that is not going to be a problem.. I don't normally bother with two-stage fermentation. Give it three weeks in the primary, and you should be golden.Edit: Unless you brew a lager. Then the rules change somewhat, depending on your procedure of choice.
  24. "FedoraDave" post=377468 said:I think that's a kind of sketchy idea. Carbon monoxide is not to be trifled with. If ventilated properly (basement windows open), I think you'd be okay - most likely. I have seen it done in basements on youtube (Chris Knight is one example). But Dave's use of the word "sketchy" is spot-on, IMO.
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