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Everything posted by packerduf

  1. "FedoraDave" post=377297 said:You're correct, Larry, but the OP said he wanted to use it for fermenting 5-gallon batches, as well as for priming. My apologies for not paying attention. :blush:
  2. A bottle brush works wonders.
  3. "asnider" post=377278 said:Can someone point me toward the olive oil tip being discussed? I tried doing a forum search but couldn't find it. Olive Oil Method
  4. I have one like that too. I have used it many many times with no issues whatsoever. I'm sure it's just an imperfection created by the mold.
  5. A tight seal is really not required on a bottling bucket, since the beer isn't in there long. I usually just place the lid on loosely, just to keep buggers out.
  6. "Kealia" post=377081 said:Your carbing pressure and your serving pressure should be one and the same. If not, you will be constantly changing the pressure on your regulator (i.e. carbing at 10psi, dropping to X for serving, and then back up to 10 to keep carb..... Bingo!I initially used 10 p.s.i., but later settled on 12 p.s.i. for my preferred carb-level. My pours are great at this setting also.
  7. Awesome! A new level of assimilation. :banana:
  8. The idea of adding sugar to these recipes, in most cases, is to boost ABV to a more appropriate level for the style. The addition of LME was a better alternative, IMO.
  9. Looks good! Can't go wrong with a good pale ale, especially when it leans slightly IPAish. It might be time to resurrect my Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone. It was my first BIAB about 2 years ago, and it was delicious.
  10. Bummer! Out of curiosity, where was your leak?
  11. Welcome aBorg, Dibs! :chug: I have yet to open a white labs yeast vial that didn't overflow, regardless of how careful I do so. I just make sure to sanitize the vial each and every time, prior to opening. Then I employ the "open-close-open-close method" to vent. Despite my best efforts, they always overflow to some extent. :chug:
  12. Welcome aBorg, Robert!!! :chug:
  13. Welcome aBorg, Bob!!! :chug:
  14. Welcome aBorg, Justin!!! :chug:
  15. "RangerDanger" post=372573 said:Not that bottling first needs another vote, but that's what I'd do also. +1 :whistle:
  16. Most refrigerators have "L-shaped" plugs, but otherwise no differences. Plug it in with confidence. :cheers:
  17. "Header75" post=369962 said:5 or 10 pound tank?.... My local Airgas company swaps out 5-pound aluminum tanks on the spot, but they send the ten-pound tanks away to be filled - which takes a few days. By swapping out my 5-pound CO2 tank each time, I am assured of always receiving an up to date (certified) tank. Otherwise, the tanks must be re-inspected every five years (I think), and the cost of the inspection isn't cheap. For those two reasons, I prefer the 5-pound aluminum tanks.
  18. +1 to Beverage Elements for good pricing on new kegs, although prices have increased slightly as of late. +1 to keg lube for the preservation of keg seals. I recommend a splitter if you decided to carbonate/dispense multiple kegs at the same time. Thanks to some invaluable borg-advice, I am extremely happy with my set-up. A special thanks to jrflowers2 who saved me a small fortune by recommending Beverage Elements, and oly for providing specific set-up recommendations. The only modification I intend to make is to lengthen one of my gas lines, to allow for use outside my beer fridge; using CO2 to push cleanser, rinse water, and sanitizer thru the keg/keg lines. FWIW, I use the 5 ft., 3/16" liquid lines with picnic taps. I force-carb and dispense @ 12 p.s.i., which results in perfect carbonation and perfect pours. Congrats on your decision to keg, Header75. You won't regret it. :chug: [attachment=13248]kegsystem1_2013-05-07.jpg[/attachment] [attachment=13249]kegsystem4_2013-05-07.jpg[/attachment]
  19. "Chuck N ™" post=368932 said:I bottled mine last weekend. But I'm afraid I ruined it. It had a bad medicinal taste to it.... I am very glad to hear you ultimately bottled your medicinal brew. When I bottled my Double American Brown (fall seasonal, 2010), it had the dreaded "band aid" taste. My expectations were very low but, in the end, the "band aid" taste was nonexistent. It remains one of my all-time favorite brews. Perhaps your final result will prove positive.I am looking forward to brewing the White IPA this week. :cheers:
  20. That Hard Pear Cider sounds delich! :woohoo: Wish these were available when I ordered the Seasonal.
  21. "tangerineyeti" post=361931 said:Hey can't wait to taste my first batch What a coincidence! I can't wait to taste my next batch. :laugh: Welcome to the forum, tangerineyeti!!! :chug:
  22. "Knightmare" post=362047 said:The carbing action you're seeing is normal. I've found that a day or two at slightly warmer temps can make a world of difference. So ya give them a few days upstairs and try another sample. +1 to slightly warmer temps and some extra time. There is a possibility that the yeast pooped out, due to temperature fluctuations. This is one reason I never cold-crash my brews; for fear of upsetting the yeasty-boyz. But many others cold-crash with great success, so take it for what it's worth.
  23. Nice job, stevenf! :chug: I also like adding a dash of salt to light commercial beers, from time to time. The addition of DME or LME will add flavor, body, and ABV to your brews. Brewing software, such as Qbrew, can help you maintain the appropriate balance. More time in the bottle at room temperature might help with the low-carb condition, especially if you were experiencing fluctuating temperatures. :cheers:
  24. Welcome aBorg, alf2617!!! :chug:
  25. The S-23 Dry Lager Yeast stinks up a storm. The smell will most likely subside within 24-48 hours. Why are you fermenting at such a high temperature? I believe the temp range on that yeast is 49 - 58 degrees, or so (don't quote me on the numbers). I have heard of using lager yeast at ale temps for certain beers, like steam beers. Just curious, was this your plan? Saflager S-23 Dry lager yeast
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