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Everything posted by packerduf

  1. "jimpuls" post=348450 said:If the intention is to dissolve the sugar in the beer, adding the sugar to the beer should do the job better. Leaving the sugar undissolved in the bottom of the bottle simply leads to an inaccurate approach. If the recommended amounts of sugar are too much, that's a different matter. Better to use the correct amount of sugar and dissolve it all. Do what you will. :popbeer:
  2. "jimpuls" post=348443 said:Am on my second batch of Mr. Beer. First batch, Oktoberfest Vienna Lager, was nice. Brewing With Mr. Beer says to add priming sugar to a bottle, then fill the bottle from the keg. Seems to me this is backwards, that it is better to first fill the bottle from the keg, then add the priming sugar. This will get the sugar better dissolved, without it packing in the bottom of the bottle. Your thoughts? Thanks, Jim Add priming sugar to bottle FIRST, then fill with beer. Adding sugar last can cause the beer to foam over.
  3. If all else fails, Star San might do the job. I was boiling vegetables one day, and forgot about it. The water boiled out and it scorched the bottom of the SS pan badly. No amount of scrubbing seemed to help, so I put some Star San in the pan and let it soak. Thirty minutes later it wiped clean with little effort. Edit: SOS pads normally work wonders, but I didn't have any that day.
  4. Recipe Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Clone Style American Pale Ale Brewer packerduf Batch 2.40 gal All Grain Recipe Gravity 1.055 OG Estimated FG 1.014 FG Recipe Bitterness 39 IBU Recipe Color 8° SRM Alcohol by Volume 5.3% Alcohol by Weight 4.2% 5.20 lb American two-row Grain Mashed 0.31 lb Crystal 60L Grain Mashed 0.10 oz Magnum Pellet 60 minutes 0.38 oz Perle Pellet 60 minutes 0.50 oz Cascade Pellet 15 minutes 0.50 oz Cascade Pellet 0 minutes 0.50 unit Irish Moss Fining 0.50 unit Yeast Nutrient 1.00 unit White Labs WLP001 - California Ale Yeast™
  5. "T8r Salad" post=347919 said:P-Duf: you stole the words right off my fingers 9 minutes ago, I know you did...I see your fingerprints. Guilty as charged.[attachment=11938]quickdraw.jpg[/attachment]
  6. I think you can sign up for the Brew Club and get free shipping, and maybe a discount. Then later just suspend your Brew Club status, so you don't get an unexpected shipment. Brew Club After you finish the registration process, your first order will ship out right away. You'll automatically receive your next homebrew club order in 1, 2 or 3 months (whichever you choose). Do nothing at all and you'll receive exactly the same items, or login to your Homebrew Club account to completely customize each shipment, pause your membership, or completely cancel your account anytime before your order is processed. Your orders will automatically receive all promotional discounts that are applicable on the date your order is processed and will ship for FREE as long as they meet the minimum order amount! Automatic Shipments After your initial order, your next orders are automatically generated and shipped at the frequency of your choice. Free Shipping* Members get FREE shipping on all club order over $49.99! Exclusive Pricing! Choose from special club member-only pricing on your favorite suppliOnline Management Tools Change your order, pause it or adjust the frequency of your shipments (every 1, 2 or 3 months). Or cancel your membership at anytime with no further obligation (Must cancel before order is processed).es every single day.
  7. [attachment=11933]hearnoevil.jpg[/attachment]
  8. The bottling wand slips inside the locking spigots. With the newest spigots, you need a tube between the spigot and bottling wand. Edit: In the picture below, all the LBKs have locking spigots except for the LBK on the bottom shelf in the middle. It has the new spigot. The wand works with both spigots. [attachment=11919]sixpak.jpg[/attachment]
  9. Sounds like you need to borrow my all-purpose special tool. [attachment=11890]sledgehamer.jpg[/attachment]
  10. It's only true if you post a picture.
  11. Welcome to the forum! :chug: Warm Beer: It's Better Than You Thought In the case of good craft beers, the low temperatures just dampen the flavor, causing you to miss all the things that would open up if a little warmer. Unfortunately, even bars with serious beer selections rarely serve their brews at the proper temperature, due to the difficulty of varying cooling in a draft system and unwillingness to contradict a public that still largely thinks beer should be virtually frozen. But when you're drinking good beer at home, Garrison says you should ditch the iced mugs for room-temperature glasses, and let beers sit out of the fridge for a little while before opening them. For reference, serve wheat beers, pilsners, and other light beers at 40-45 degrees, dark styles like cask ales and imperial stouts at 50-55 degrees, and ambers and bocks somewhere in between.
  12. "gophers6" post=347378 said:The sediment is not priming sugar. Reducing the sugar won't reduce the sediment. +1. Trub forms in the bottle, just as it did in the LBK. It's all part of the process. Embrace it.
  13. Without a hydrometer, you never know for sure. But 3 weeks should be plenty of time, barring a stuck fermentation. If it tastes like flat beer with no sweetness, then bottle it up.
  14. [attachment=11866]Thumbsup.jpg[/attachment]
  15. "Moddy J" post=347116 said:Whew, thank you for the good info. Had to move it to the pantry. Wife did not want her clothes smelling like sulfur. Wait til ya start brewing lagers.
  16. Do they clean the kegs prior to shipment? Perhaps some sticky gew left behind solidified, and the posts stuck. Regardless, over-tightening will indeed damage o-rings/gaskets.
  17. Two weeks at the appropriate temperature is fine. Many go three weeks to allow the yeast a little extra time for clean-up (bulk conditioning), but it is not absolutely necessary. RDWHAHB, and.... Welcome to the forum!!! :chug: Edit: For best results, let the bottles sit in the dark at room temp for about 4 weeks - prior to refrigeration.
  18. ATABOY, Yankfan! :chug: Sounds like no harm was done. As long as the yeast were healthy, and the temps didn't get out of control, there would be little chance of off-flavors due to autolysis. There are many brewers out there who ferment in primary for 2-3 months, with excellent results. I choose to side with caution, and I typically ferment (primary) for no more than 3 weeks. But then again, I'm a scaredy-cat. [attachment=11865]scaredycat_2013-03-07.jpg[/attachment]
  19. "Transisto" post=346865 said:...I'll experiment by bottling two right now, and the rest in one week... This is what the great ericg (former Mr. Beer Brewmeister, and beloved Borg participant) had to say regarding the bottling of a partial batch. You can read the entire thread here: OK to Bottle a Small Portion Early? "ericg" post=120669 said:Seems to be a lot of disagreement on this one... I'll just say that if it were my beer, I wouldn't do it. While Kealia & Stinkyjunk are right that sampling throughout the process isn't likely to hurt anything, that's a lot different than drawing out 32 oz of beer, which would require 32 oz of air to replace that volume. I suspect that that amount of air in the keg would at the very least reduce the shelf life of the beer that stayed in the keg. At worst, some dust in that volume of air might bring some bacteria or wild yeast into the keg and start some off flavors. Either way, the beer left in the keg won't age in the same way that the beer in your bottle will, so it won't be a very good experiment anyways. If you really want to see this difference for yourself, I'd suggest brewing 2 batches of a recipe (obviously, you need 2 kegs to do this). Bottle 1 after a week, then the second after 2 weeks.
  20. I wonder if a sanitized pipe cleaner (or similar object) inserted up into the spigot would do the trick?
  21. "Beer-lord" post=346669 said:Here's an interesting idea that I'm sure many here have used. In my opinion, you almost can't go wrong if you stay true to cleanliness. Depending on the type of beer you make, this process should work just as well. http://woodlandbrew.blogspot.com/2012/12/yeast-washing-exposed.html http://woodlandbrew.blogspot.com/2013/01/yeast-washing-revisited.html Very interesting articles, Beer-lord. How do you suppose he tested the "viability"?
  22. If I recall, you could purchase a bottling wand w/adapter tube from Mr. Beer. Apparently, you must now purchase the Spigot and Wand Assembly as a set. Bummer! Edit: Although I suppose, under the circumstances, an extra spigot may come in handy. :laugh:
  23. "JohnDubya" post=346322 said: "yankfan9" post=346321 said:I thought about getting a vinator, as I also can't stand sanitizing 40+ bottles one by one, but the bad reviews I have read have stopped me Bad reviews? Not from here. +1. I don't recall any bad reviews on the vinator. I wouldn't bottle without it, nor a bottling tree.
  24. "Wings_Fan_In_KC" post=346294 said:...use a hop that bitters well such as Bravo or Cluster. I would think the HMEs would provide the necessary bitterness. Perhaps more than enough.Edit: Assuming the grain bill is reduced, that is. At a minimum, I would drop the booster, as Wings suggests. Even then, it would be best to use a different yeast. Recipe Gravity 1.093 OG Estimated FG 1.023 FG Recipe Bitterness 19 IBU Recipe Color 4° SRM Alcohol by Volume 9.0% Alcohol by Weight 7.0% 1.87 lb Mr. Beer/Coopers Classic American Light 1.87 lb Mr. Beer/Coopers Canadian Blonde 0.55 lb Mr. Beer BrewMax Pale - LME 0.81 lb Mr. Beer Booster 0.94 lb Oregon Fruit - Boysenberries 1.00 oz Mr. Beer/Coopers Canadian Blonde Pellet 5 minutes 1.00 oz Mr. Beer/Coopers Classic American Light Pellet 5 minutes
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