Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

Rebel_B

Community Members
  • Content Count

    1,738
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Rebel_B

  1. The liquid yeast is a bit more 'random'. Although I've had liquid yeast start off very quickly, in general, I would say the dry yeast starts vigorous fermentation faster.
  2. I saw that and thought I would try it on another recipe as well. I brewed up an all-grain Saison ale with some freshly grated ginger that has turned out really nice. The MrB summer seasonal is a real pleasure to drink as well. Both recipes I used were done at household temperature, which happened to be in the lower 70's here (no air conditioning). I was hoping it would get warmer where I have the fermenters, but the highest it ever got was 76 degrees (72 in house, 76 on fermenter).
  3. "RickBeer" post=390280 said: "gophers6" post=390279 said:IDK, was just looking at the recipes, seems like a lot of them have several reviews. There should be dozens, if not hundreds, of reviews. Many have none, or 1-3. Not very useful. After first joining up, I tried to leave reviews; now matter how many reviews I submitted, none were ever posted. Have you ever had a review posted?
  4. Glad to see it worked out. I've been using Wyeast off and on for three years, never had a problem.
  5. Barley Crusher here... Factory setting works great for all barley, need to go a bit closer with smaller wheat malt, so I set mine at 'credit card' gap; same as the setting at my LHBS. Single crush for BIAB does the trick!
  6. Aaah; a picture of the first pour: summer is here! [attachment=14347]image_2013-07-23-2.jpg[/attachment]
  7. Yeah, beast of a yeast. My first one came in at 7.1% ABV (according to my trusty hydrometer). Just popped a bottle in the fridge to cool off for a bit before I try one out!
  8. I would recommend figuring enough water & malt for the boil, so that when you are transferring to your fermenter, you can leave behind all the crud in your boil pot. That way, you have zero crud when you are taking the OG sample. I use a super coarse filter/funnel to catch the Irish moss, and hop sacks keep the whole leaf hops out of the way, no crud in the fermenter.
  9. I think there are two big factors that apply to both Homebrewers and pros; healthy yeast, and fresh ingredients. I thought about that connection last night when I drank 2 'strong ales' brewed several weeks apart. One I bottled on 5/26 always kinda bothered me, almost a faint cheesy aroma I suspected was from some Colombus hops. Drank a bottle of that last night, same taste. Another one, bottled on 6/16/13 at 7.9% ABV, was awesome after 2 weeks conditioning, still awesome after 4 weeks conditioning.
  10. "mtsoxfan" post=387621 said:I know someone chimed in a while ago regarding conditioning times, basically saying if you have to condition more than a month(?), (I forgot the timeframe) you build it wrong. The beer that is... Well, here's the thing. He/she can't be far off. I mean, look at the large brewers, do they have the real estate and capital to be conditioning beer for 6+ months? I know the kits I've used benefit from extended condtioning, sometimes up to a year. I have my first high gravity AG fermenting now.... But how do the big boys do it? Is it that they have the money and resources to develop great tasting brews that don't need the extended conditioning times? Ingredients...processes.... What do you think???? Could've been me who chimed in. I'm pretty skeptical that long conditioning times improve a beer. It may reduce the off flavors of a flawed brew. I've commented that if I don't like the beer after a few weeks conditioning, I won't like it regardless of how long it's conditioned. Just as with everything else, there are exceptions, but I still find that to be 'generally' true.
  11. Try 'rousing the yeast'; AKA stir it up. Might aerate it some, but usually helps. What temp did you mash at?
  12. Bottled up a batch of this one last night; #134 Biere De Saison - 2013 Summer Seasonal. Pretty tasty stuff! With the finishing gravity at 1.006, ABV came in at 7.1%.
  13. I prefer glass bottles cause when I trade bottles of homebrew with co-workers, they all use 12oz brown glass bottles. If you enter your beers in a competition, all 12oz brown glass bottles. If someone gave me a plastic bottle, I would be surprised, since I haven't had that happen yet. I like to mix it up, 22oz brown glass bottles for home, 12oz brown glass bottles to give away or trade.
  14. Will probably bottle my batch tonight (that would be 19 days in the LBK); FG looked to be at 1.006 on Wednesday, will check again this evening.
  15. Check out the HBT 'Hard Iced Tea' thread...
  16. One of my local breweries recommends this: ' Need some yeast? Drop off a mason jar and we'll fill it with what ever is currently fermenting, just give us a day or two. Drop on by or drop us a line.' Thanks to big al brewing http://www.bigalbrewing.com/home-brewing.php
  17. "Btech117" post=384454 said:I am botteling them in glass bottles and got 22 bottles out of my American Classic Light (came with Kit ) My American Classic is due to bottle next Wednesday .... and than My Summer Seasonal Just started today and has 2 weeks until ready to bottle Do i need to wait 2 months on the Classic light in the bottles? I think you should be the judge... Try some, see if they improve over time.
  18. "Gymrat" post=384434 said: "azmark" post=384428 said: "Btech117" post=384410 said:I do have a hydro however have not played with it or have figured out how to take the OG yet - Hoping to do some research on it and start testing with the hyrdo on my 4th batch (Patriot lauger i just ordered today) I figured id KISS on my first 3 batches and follow the 2-2-2 rule i have read about 2 weeks ferm. 2 weeks carb 2 weeks condition in fridge. Also Gymrat what is this "Pitching Temp" you speak of on the other link - I assume your refering to the temperature that you sprinkle the yeast in at? The directions never said anything about a specific temp i have usually just got done boiling and filling the LBK and than toss my yeast in - should i be loging the temperature in my journal and make sure that the yeast goes in a a scertin point? 222 is bad bad bad the way you have it. Only 2 weeks in the bottle before it hits the fridge will be young, and most likely under carbed. Leave in bottle at room temp for a min of one month,,,,2 better, in fridge for 2 days...... My version of 222 Two weeks in fermenter.... Two months in bottle at room temp... Two days in fridge... You are a very patient individual. A lot more so than I am. This wouldn't work with the PET bottles, but in glass bottles, I always have one 6 to 7 days after bottling. They are always fully carbed by then. My wheats and my IPAs actually taste their best that soon. My other beers sometimes have a bitter finish or taste like the flavors haven't blended yet, but it gives me an idea of how my beer turned out. I figure since I got 50 bottles out of the batch, why not? +1! I can't imagine waiting 2 months to drink a batch of beer. Most are fully carbed
  19. "losman26" post=384257 said:I'm drinking my second BIAB batch using the HBC 342 experimental hop, and see no reason to do extract brewing anymore unless I'm either teaching someone or need a quick batch. BIABing doesn't really take much more time as extract brewing, and costs about 1/2 as much. I just tasted my hydro of a Citra Rye batch using the San Diego super yeast, and it tastes awesome. The freshness of the ingredients, and being able to control your mash makes all the difference. It also seems a lot easier to adjust or scale recipes doing all-grain. Now, I just need to buy a really good digital thermometer. I'm probably gonna go with something from Thermoworks. Maybe eventually I'll convert to traditional all-grain. Which method do you prefer? I'm mostly doing BIAB; modified, since I typically recirculate/vorlauf the wort and do a fly sparge. I'm making a bunch of excellent beers this way. I also crush the grains immediately prior to mashing. The whole process typically takes 4-5 hours, or about 4 hours longer than a MrB recipe. You would think it costs 1/2 as much, but when I come out of the homebrew store and look at my receipts, I know that is not true. On the occasional purchase when I just purchase grains, hops, and dry yeast, then it could be 1/2 the cost. I enjoy my homebrewing and sharing some well made beers; that's the bottom line!
  20. "philm00x" post=383969 said:I've done like Inkleg, smacked the pack at room temp when I start sanitizing and prepping, then by the time the boil is done and the wort is cooled, it'll usually be swollen. Pour the wort into the keg and aerate, open the smack pack and pitch into wort. Same here; they are fully swollen/inflated after 3-4 hours.
  21. Yup; well said. Small batches are fun!
  22. Here's a picture of the LBK with the Biere De Saison - 2013 Summer Seasonal I brewed on Monday... [attachment=13979]image_2013-06-25-3.jpg[/attachment]
  23. "RangerDanger" post=381997 said:A lot of people have made the switch to batch priming because of how time consuming bottle priming is. I won't deny that priming each individual bottle is a bit tedious, but what I find much more of an annoyance is sanitizing each individual bottle. And the way I see it, even with batch priming you will still have to sanitize each bottle individually. I use one step sanitizer so my method is to dissolve it into water while heating on the stove. Then use a funnel to fill each bottle, seal it, slosh it around a bit, and pour it out. Is there a better way to do it? Will switching to a sanitizer similar to star san make the process any easier? From MrBeer kit instructions: 1. When you are sure your beer is ready to bottle,14 fill a 1-gallon container with warm water then add the remaining 1?2 pack of the no-rinse cleanser and stir until dissolved. Once dissolved it is ready to use. 2. Fill each bottle halfway with the sanitizing solution. Screw on caps and shake bottles vigorously. Allow to sit 10 minutes. Empty your bottles. No rinsing is required.
×
×
  • Create New...