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Fat Pete

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About Fat Pete

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    Brewmaster in Training

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  1. Just let it sit for 3 weeks...STOP STARRING!.....Bottom line, fermentation takes place whether you see activity or not, trust me, it does... Let it sit at least 21 days, and don't worry what you see. Some fermentations are visually active, others are not, and they both have the same end results....the wonders of nature... Good luck
  2. Drop $20 on a basic Pur water filter that snaps onto your faucet. I've made hundreds of batches and not one issue with the water. Good luck.
  3. I keep every beer in the LBK for 21 days. Leave it 5 more days, it's not going to hurt your brew.
  4. Hello yankfan9...I do consider my set up to be my own brewery. I have 3 LBK's on a 3 week fermenting rotation, this keeping the pipeline flowing. I have about 5-7 different recipe's myself and my wife enjoy, so we have variety and a inventory to keep us set. I give my brew as presents to close friends and family. Other than buying Draught Kegs of New Castle Brown Ale for my BeerTender (undying love for New Castle Brown), I have not bought commercial beer in a looooong time. But, in reality, I would not entertain opening my own brewery just for the cost involved for the proper licensing and health department needs to have all the certifications in place. But for me, my wife, friends, and family, Fat Pete's Home Brewery Stanhope, NJ rolls on... Good luck. F.P
  5. Welcome...I think Booster is about 12 ounces, so figure, you used 12-16 ounces of DME....you're fine...worse thing that can happen is you made beer, and probably very good beer... good luck. F.P.
  6. I suggest using corn sugar as opposed to cane sugar. Others may disagree, but I have found the batches I made that I primed with cane sugar to be soda like, large bubbles. All batches I made primed with corn sugar had beer/ale carbonation, fine carbonation. That's been my experience. As I say, others may disagree, but I only prime with corn sugar.
  7. "vitch61" post=288683 said:Mr. Beer One-Step: Is it a cleanser, a sanitizer or both? I've been cleaning with OxyClean and sanitizing with One-Step. I'm starting to wonder if I'm sanitizing at all! Is OxyClean + One-Step overkill -- or still insufficient? The term "one-step sort of implies that it does it all. Bottles can not be too clean or sanitized... Wash bottles and LBK with Oxy Clean Free (or save a few $ and use Sun Oxygen Cleaner...exact same thing).... Before brewing or bottling, take said bottles and LBK that were washed with Oxy/Sun and use One Step Sanitizer for final rinse... Overkill?....no....clean bottles and LKB? ummmm, yeah....good formula for good beer, don't screw with it... Can't be clean enough....
  8. "franknbrews" post=287341 said:What I like about Mr. Beer is that you can get small quantities of HME for the 2 gallon keg. All of these other places don't sell HME, the ones that do sell it in huge quantities. Looks like I have to graduate from the Mr. Beer process and start hopping myself. Still, if anyone has any specific links to HME products that are compatible to the Mr. Beer recipes let me know. It's not difficult to use the other brands HME's with your MB LBK...All you need is a kitchen scale and some take along containers and a rubber spatula to get it all out of the can. Open the can of the other brand's HME, pour out what you need into a smaller take along container, and the rest into a larger one and pop the extra into the fridge until the next batch. It'll keep for a few months. Take it out of the fridge a few hours before you make a batch for it to come to room temp. Cold HME is very blob-like! BTW, don't let it get around, but buying HME in the big can is very cost effective...but, you didn't hear that from me...
  9. "Brian N." post=286709 said:Thanks all for the info. One more question - How quickly does the beer clear once the yeast is finished fermenting? It has been two full weeks and it is still very cloudy - almost flaky looking. The best answer I can give you on this one is...it's hard to say. Some beer does clear after a few weeks, or months, other beers do not clear and stay cloudy. I've only had one batch that never cleared up, it was my third or fourth batch, it was MB Cowboy Lager. It tasted OK, but it just never truly cleared, even after being bottled 4 weeks. Bottom line is this, cloudy beer is really just a cosmetic thing. I had a friends home brew that was cloudy and very tasty. I suggest this idea to you, a technique called Cold Crashing. At 21 days, take your LBK and put it into the 'fridge for 24-48 hours. The idea here it the colder temp puts the yeasties to sleep, and will make the suspended matter in your brew drop to the bottom of the LBK. At the end of cold crashing, up to 48 hours, you can prime and bottle your brew. BTW, not a problem priming & bottling the brew at the cold temp. After you bottle, and let the bottles sit at 68-72 degrees the yeasties will wake up as the brew warms to room temp and do their carbing magic. If you choose to let the brew come to room temp before priming and bottling, that will work also. Good luck... F.P.
  10. Before I was a home brewer, I drank mostly Bud and Miller products...I'll never bash them, I had many a good time with a Bud in hand. I'll never drink it again, but i won't bash it. Now, Coors Light on the other hand, I did not like before home brewing, and obviously I still don't. But, nonetheless I have a suggestion for you as to what to make for your father in law who does appreciate Coors products. I highly recommend a Wheat Beer. Wheat beers are smooth, mellow, lightly hopped and something I thing a Coors drinker would appreciate. I used to make the MB's Whispering Wheat, and I assume the new MB version, Bavarian Weissbier Deluxe Refill, would be similar. I would whip up 2 batches....One as is, for your father in law...and one adding an additional 1.25 Lbs of Briess Bavarian Wheat LME for yourself. I think he will appreciate the Wheat beer. If not, sorry, but at the end of the day you'll have 2 cases of great wheat beer. Good luck... F.P.
  11. good call Brian...don't dump it...it's your first home brewed beer...keep it, drink it, learn from it... Trust me, Brian, this is the best hobby ever...Brew strong, and remember patience... A year from now when you are enjoying your home brew, and not a store bought beer, you'll be glad you stuck with it... Good luck bro... F.P.
  12. The ale yeast that comes with the Pale Ale is very versatile, it works best between 68-72 degrees, best closer to 68 degrees...I still works in higher temps, actually up to almost 80 degrees, but it will affect your brew, off flavors in your brew being the most common... Your at day 13, keep it in the fermenter until 21 days...If the temp is high, put your fermenter in a cooler with an ice pack or two to try to bring the temp down... One thing you MUST remember with home brewing, is time is your friend, do not rush....ferment 21 days, prime, bottle, then store the bottles at about 68-70 degrees for 3 weeks...in the meantime, you can plan your next brew... Good luck...
  13. "swenocha" post=286049 said:Of course, Fat Pete is totally correct... you could take one can of HME, split three ways, and also split one 3.3lb can of LME and split in a similar fashion to get a nice 3.7ish ABV session brew. A nice brew on a budget, as you can get a can of the LME and a can of HME for around $30 total, leaving you with $10 per brew (plus yeast cost). Pretty spiffy... Swen, basically, I still do that with most quickie brews... 1.25 lb HME + 1.25 LME, a pack o'ale yeast and it makes a fine beer...good luck!
  14. "swenocha" post=286041 said:the "split in three" is correct for the old Mr. B cans (1.1lbs), but the new ones are 1.8lbs, so splitting in half (1.65ish) is closer to a new Mr. B sized portion... Ah, I stand corrected....since I have not used the "new" MB sizes, I am was talking a bit out of school...nevermind...
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