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myndflyte

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About myndflyte

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    Brewmaster in Training

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    Wauwatosa, WI

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  1. Wisconsin native, and current resident, also here.
  2. You calculate the priming sugar for the temperature it is going to sit at while it carbs.
  3. In my experience, fruit adds a little bit of carbonation so I would probably lower the carb sugar a bit. And unless you are going for aesthetics, being cloudy doesn't mean the beer isn't done. I never purposely clear my beer. I wait 3 weeks and if the FG is good, I bottle.
  4. The stuff smells like rotten eggs when it ferments but it ends up tasting soooo good. I love me some Hefe.
  5. You're adding an extra step that you don't have to. In the 6 cups of water, steep your grains first at 155 for 20 min. Then add the DME to the steeping water and bring that to a boil. Just let it boil till the break all falls and then continue with the rest. There is no need to steep separately from the water you use to boil the DME.
  6. I think you are trying to do way to much all at once. I would suggest just brewing it how it is supposed to be so you know how it should taste before you start adding a bunch of different things. And the best advise is to not chase ABV. I make homebrew for something that tastes great. If I want something high in alcohol, I'll buy hard liquor or buy cheap beer. You added so much sugar that it is not going to turn out good. I'm not sure how much cinnamon you used but if it was anything over 1 tsp, it'll probably be too much. Also, chocolate syrup is probably something you don't want to use. It's going to have fats and oils in it that will probably not sit well in the beer. If you want chocolate, use chocolate malt or unsweetened baker's chocolate or cocoa nibs. You can let this ride if you want to see what you think of it but I would suggest just following the directions and not adding anything else for your next brew.
  7. Don't fear the foam from the StarSan. It's all good. Don't use a bench capper so I can't comment on that. I bought a 5 gal paint strainer from Home Depot and have reused it many times. I just rinse it out after using it and throw it in the wash with my clothes. Never had any problems doing that. For dumping it in the LBK, I say get rid of the funnel. I used to use a funnel and it would splash out all time time so I said screw it. You're only on your 5th batch, you'll get the hang of it eventually. I would say a candy thermometer would probably be more accurate than an IR one. For the yeast cake, you can always wash it and save it. There are instructions online if you google it. Doing it for MB yeast probably isn't worth it but if you start buying liquid yeast, if may be worth your while to start washing and saving the yeast cake.
  8. The only way a siphon works is if the receiving vessel is lower than where the liquid is coming from. But like people said, maybe if you plan ahead, you could avoid having actually lift the full fermenter. Or just split it.
  9. 72-76F should be more than fine. I typically ferment mine at 66-68F. You were right to keep the temps down initially because you'll start releasing fusel alcohol which you don't want. It just may be a sweeter beer. To me, beer that was done fermenting always tasted a little sweet to me, even with a good hydrometer reading. Now if it tastes sweet like unfermented wort, then you have an issue. Did you get krausen during fermentation or is there a layer of trub on the bottom?
  10. I got a few over a year old. The oldest is a barleywine that is now about 1.5 years in the bottle.
  11. You can bottle cold, just make sure you calculate the amount of sugar using the temperature you are going to carb at, not the current temperature of the beer.
  12. The bottling wand doesn't do anything in increase the quality of your beer. It just makes bottling much easier. You don't have to hold the spigot open anymore or anything like that. You will need to order 3 spigots, one for each LBK, but you'll only need 1 wand.
  13. This chart here: http://www.yeastcalc.com/guide%20to%20yeast.htm says it has a medium tolerance. I'm not exactly sure what that means though.
  14. "FedoraDave" post=305543 said:Also, if I remember correctly from my Sixth Grade Science class, while the agitation would speed up the dissolving of the sugar, the comparative volume of liquid to sugar means the sugar will get dissolved eventually. But yeah, listen to Dag. Dag is right. Dag is right a lot of the time, and more often than not when it comes to beer. Dave has got it right. The amount of liquid is so much more than the sugar that it will eventually dissolve without agitation. The yeasties are experts at finding the sugar.
  15. I use starsan, but that's just my personal preference. I bought it with my first real recipe order and have just been using it ever since.
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