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allenc85

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Everything posted by allenc85

  1. "meopilite" post=255178 said:Canada draft, cowboy ale, american blonde ale, all taste the same to me. West Coast pale ale taste a little different. Could be my water. We have a lot of minerals in the water here. If you are brewing those recipes with just one HME, one pouch booster and the 1 "fromunda" yeast then I could see how they all taste very similar. I think that yeast is very discernible IMO, especially in the basic recipes. Try upping the malt/adj ratio and using different yeasts...
  2. I use a scale to measure all my ingredients, and as a basic rule of thumb I use 4 ounces of booster for every can or pound of Malt, depending on the style I'm shooting for. This keeps malt in the forefront, but balances the mouthfeel out nicely IMO. There are numerous reasons when you may want more or less adjunct, but that ratio has worked for me.
  3. "meopilite" post=253374 said:Im sure theres a lot of loopholes in selling your beer. But, theres a lot of crafted beers out there that do it. I see small breweries out there all the time. So how does one go about selling beer? (without going to prison) The only loophole available to you would be do it and not get caught... If you have a couple guys who enjoy your beer just ask them pitch in on the ingredients and maybe show them the process. I would imagine if they've enjoyed a handful of your beers already, you could convince them to chip in $5-10 on the next batch. Might be a decent way to bring them into the hobby. If you are just trying to recoup some cash a bottle here or a bottle there then you aren't going to get caught (knock on wood), if you are planning on selling to everybody in your neighborhood etc then you are asking for a problem. What happens when somebody gets a bad bottle? If they know you are already shady what's going to stop them from being a d*ck and ratting you out. I think you would be better off getting a group of guys to split the cost and also help with the brew day. Just my two cents :party:
  4. There is live yeast in every bottle, which is what carbs the beer - try pouring the beer into a glass, and save the last swallow or so (you can see the trub in that last little bit as an indicator on when to stop pouring) Also, use a smooth technique when --- don't slosh it around in the bottle and try to pour from the same angle to keep from stirring the yeast/trub back into suspension
  5. I'd agree with using S-05, it ferments very clean. May also consider using Wheat UME instead of Pale Export, but I think it looks pretty good regardless - keep us posted!
  6. Thanks guys! I found this Biere d' Amoureux recipe that will be perfect, since I've had this Linebacker Doppel Boch that I've had no idea what to do with.
  7. Thanks for the input, I think I may knock it down to 4 or 6 oz Honey Malt, do .25 oz bitter orange and get rid of the coriander all together... Still debating on my yeast - as I don't have a cooler where I can assure temps in the 65-68 range, leaning towards the S-05
  8. Thanks SP - I just figured steeping wouldn't get that much out of the honey malt, but I may scale it back to 8 oz
  9. Here is the recipe I have planned next: Brewer: Allebc85 Style: American Wheat or Rye Beer Batch: 2.50 galExtract Characteristics --------------- Recipe Gravity: 1.056 OG Recipe Bitterness: 14 IBU Recipe Color: 13° SRM Estimated FG: 1.014 Alcohol by Volume: 5.5% Alcohol by Weight: 4.3% Ingredients ----------- Crystal 120L - [body, Caramel, Head, Sweet]0.25 lb, Grain, Steeped Honey 0.25 lb, Sugar, Other Honey Malt (Canadian) 1.00 lb, Grain, Steeped MrB. Booster 0.50 lb, Sugar, Other Muntons DME - Wheat (60%/40%)2.00 lb, Extract, Extract Hallertauer (Germany) 0.50 oz, Pellet, 8 minutes Hallertauer (Germany) 0.25 oz, Pellet, 20 minutes Hallertauer (Germany) 0.25 oz, Pellet, 60 minutes Corriander Seed 0.50 unit, Spice, .5 tsp, crushed Orange Peel, Bitter 0.50 unit, Spice, .5 ounce Safbrew WB-06 Dry Wheat Yeast 1.00 unit, Yeast, Temperature Range: 59°-75° F 11.5 GRAMS Notes ----- Recipe Notes: Heat pot of 1 gallon water to 160*, add Crystal and Honey Malt, steep at 150* for 30 minutes Heat 2nd pot of 1 gallon water to 200* and add DME, heat past hot break Pour 1st pot into 2nd pot, straining grains. Rinse with .5 gallons of 175* water Heat 2nd pot to rolling boil Add: - .25 oz Hallertauer hops, 40 minutes - .25 oz Hallertauer hops, 5 minutes - .5 ounce orange peel and .5 tsp corriander, 7 minutes - .5 oz Hallertauer hops, 8 minutes - 8 oz Booster, flamout Cool wort to >70*, pitch yeast Ferment for 7 days, boil 1 cup water with 4 oz honey then add to fermentation My question is - it's getting hot here and if I ferment in my closet it will probably be close to 70-72*. I could probably rig up an ice/water bath of sorts to keep it in the lower 60s if need be. I have Wb-06, US-05, and T-58 as options for yeast. I want to use the WB06 but am afraid it my become a little to much banana for my liking (though, it my be a tasty addition??) Any ideas/suggestions?
  10. manosteel9423 wrote: Screwy said he knew it wasn't a popular opinion, but that he didn't believe that a beer got better with age. That if it wasn't good within the first couple of weeks, it would never be a good beer. Or, something along those lines...again, I was under the influence of some homebrew... I have only a handful to use as examples, but so far I have found that my first brew (which was pretty light and a little high on adj/malt) was pretty dang good at 2 weeks, with only a slight difference after a month and a half. My second batch wasn't that great at 2 weeks and wasn't that great yesterday after over a month and a half. And my 3rd batch was a tweaked Witty Monk recipe that ended close to 8% ABV and used Trappist High Gravity yeast, and it has changed a lot (for the better) from 2 weeks to 5 weeks. So, moral of the story - some beer will be fine at 2 weeks with no noticeable change later on, and some will develop different characteristics over their conditioning time. I don't think you can definitively say every beer, from a light wheat to a heavier Belgian tripel, are going to age the same and be completely done within 2 weeks - IMHO...
  11. I've heard of people using Ship It To for other items that won't ship to Canada or because of the cost. I've never had to use the site, but it may be an option to consider.
  12. Looking forward to it, this is my first with Citra hops - they smelled awesome weighing them out!
  13. let me know what you think Style: American IPA Batch: 2.50 galExtract Characteristics --------------- Recipe Gravity: 1.074 OG Recipe Bitterness: 78 IBU Recipe Color: 13° SRM Estimated FG: 1.019 Alcohol by Volume: 7.2% Alcohol by Weight: 5.7% Ingredients ----------- Briess LME - Golden Light 0.94 lb, Extract, Extract Crystal 120L - [body, Caramel, Head, Sweet]0.25 lb, Grain, Steeped MrB. Booster 0.81 lb, Sugar, Other MrB. Cowboy Golden Lager 1.21 lb, Extract, Extract Muntons DME - Amber 1.50 lb, Extract, Extract Cascade 0.25 oz, Pellet, 0 minutes Cascade 0.25 oz, Pellet, 8 minutes Cascade 0.25 oz, Pellet, 17 minutes Cascade 0.25 oz, Pellet, 21 minutes Citra 0.25 oz, Pellet, 0 minutes Citra 0.25 oz, Pellet, 8 minutes Citra 0.25 oz, Pellet, 17 minutes Citra 0.25 oz, Pellet, 21 minutes Columbus 0.25 oz, Pellet, 8 minutes Columbus 0.25 oz, Pellet, 17 minutes MrB. Cowboy Golden Lager 2.00 oz, Pellet, 5 minutes Corriander Seed 1.00 unit, Spice, 4 grams Mr. Beer Dry Ale Yeast 1.00 unit, Yeast, with 5 minute boil for nutrient Safale S-05 Dry Ale Yeast 1.00 unit, Yeast, American: Temperature Range: 59°-75° F 11.5 GRAMS Notes ----- Recipe Notes: Bring .5 gallon water to 160* and steep Crystals, 30 minutes Bring .5 gallon water to 170*, pour Crystal water through strainer then pour 170* water over Crystals Mix DME into the water and bring to 208*, watching for hot break, then rolling boil for 39 minutes Hop Schedule: - Cascade & Citra, 4 minutes - Columbus & Citra & Cascade, 2 minutes - Corriande, 7 minutes - Columbus & Citra & Cascade, 3 minutes - 1 pack fromunda, 5 minutes Flameout, mix in HME Cool to
  14. Fee wrote: Led Zeppelin however.....will always be on the list. 4Word http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JybkqBGrVs How can this not put a little extra pep in your step, great band!
  15. Thinking about trying this recipe out for the GF, and since it comes with 2 cans fruit, I'm thinking add one can at the beginning then add the second can at 7 days and cold crash/bottle around day 17... Anybody had this recipe before who could share some input?
  16. I have the black winged bottle capper from Mr Beer and I have bottled twist off bottles before with no problems. It takes a little more muscle, but it worked. I did the first one on a Natural Light bottle (liked the bottle and thought I would see if I could bottle a twist off) and now I have a couple Blue Moon bottles in inventory - so far no carbonation issues. I say if you got a blue bottle try bottling one and see how it goes.
  17. [video size=400 width=20 height=20] How could anybody hate this :party:
  18. Here's a chart to give you a run down of styles with food types, pretty handy... [img size=300]http://www.craftbeer.com/attachments/0000/0533/beerandfood.pdf
  19. Tried a sampler, and it's pretty tasty. Will probably just continue to get better! The Cascade and Columbus hops are really nice on the nose, the flavor is great - a little drier than I was expecting, but really nice beer early on. Gonna probably wait another 2 weeks at least until I move anymore into the fridge. Pretty pumped, by St Patty's I should have a pretty good selection to choose from and enough to make waiting on future batches much easier!
  20. KzooEnrique wrote: @allenc85 - I understand using better yeast, but why 2 extra packs? The fromunda yeast is only about 2 grams, whereas S-05 and other "better" yeasts are 10.5+ grams. Basically, the 10.5 gram packs are made with 5 gallon batches in mind, so scaled down you would want 5.5+ grams for a 2.5 gallon batch. More yeasties the less stress they have which means better beer. So if you are brewing a beer under 6% ABV and you have S-05, you could halve the packet and use the other half for a later batch - but there is nothing wrong with pitching the whole pack. Using 3 total Mr Beer yeast will get you 6 grams, giving you plenty of yeast cells to do their job better. Soomebody more experienced/knowledgeable can probably explain it better, but this is the gist of it as I have learned so far.
  21. On your first/next purchase, make sure to include about 2 extra dry ale yeast packets per recipe or a better yeast, like safale s-04 or s-05 (depending on style). Your yeast and sanitation practices will go a long way in making very good beer!
  22. Jerik wrote: Yep, sounds like Mr. beer yeast twang Have no fears though, I've found that taste will mostly go away with conditioning. This ^^^ I quit brewing over a year ago because of this very problem. I brewed a basic recipe following Mr B's instructions, and was thrilled to be brewing my own beer. Immediately bought some accessories and a premium recipe (Brew Ha Ha Boch) and brew it up as soon as I bottled my original batch. After a few weeks the original batch never got past the plain 'ol beer taste. It wasn't bad, just wasn't good or anything to be proud of. I was hoping my premium recipe would be exponentially better, and low and behold it tasted almost the same. I was pissed. I poured out the original batch, and since I'd already bottled the second batch in glass bottles I put them up and forgot about them. I stumbled onto them about 3-4 months later and threw a few in the fridge and voila - it had it's own distinct, good taste. It taught me patience - and that Mr Beer yeast with the directions given are a joke. I now only brew with it if I can use 3 packs, otherwise I just toss the pack in for the last 5 or so minutes of the boil. Sorry for the lengthy expose, but I just hope nobody else gets discouraged because of the Mr Beer yeast and/or lack of instructions involved in the brew process.
  23. One thing I just recently learned was you add LME/DME to change the pH of the water to 3.5 acidity range so the acid in the hops is utilized. It's not to give the hops something to cling to, which is how I always understood it before. As far as amounts, you could probably steep with about .5 gallon and then when you do your boil at about the 30 minute mark add your LME - I've never used LME, just DME, so I always had my DME in another .5 gallon slowly raised past hot break and then combine the two for about 1 gallon for the hop boil. You could probably just keep an eye on it, and possibly at a quart or so of water when you add your LME.
  24. Welcome! You came to the right place. Ask plenty of questions, and for some required readings - click here
  25. I have the same 5 gallon bucket from Lowes and am planning on doing 4.5 gallon batches in the future. I am currently doing a 3 gallon batch, but after thinking about I figured I could double a Mr Beer recipe (or just create my own) and brew up to 4.5 gallons - leaving a half gallon or about 4 inches head space. This way I can use my two LBK when I know I am going to want to rack to a secondary, since 8.5 liters is basically 2.25 gallons. I just have an air lock for now, but figure if I have something with a lot of krausen then I'll just replace it with some tubing for blow off.
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