cavalrymsh

well that's some interesting news. I will be keeping my eyes open...glad it wasn't Muntons...pissed off right now about a wheat kit I purchased...)(^*%&%$$$!

Victory hop devil Ipa has Munich in it. I think it adds a great malt character to the beer.

I don't know. With this one post Caveman generated some of the coolest pix posted in at least a month...

Great question. Lots of anectdotal info out there. It's the next area I hope to explore with my ag brewing. Here's a link I found with scientific source material...now if I can just find the time! http://www.beer-brewing.com/beer-brewing/brewing_water/brewing_water_references.htm

When Matt said he heavily oxygenated the wort prior to sampling I immediately thought of this... http://www.bermuda-attractions.com/bermuda2_0000a1.htm ...GOFs theory sounds plausible too...

Screwy Brewer wrote: To identify the different beer styles I bottle I bought some Avery 5247 one inch round permanent mailing labels to stick on the bottle caps. There's a cool website at http://dpo.print.avery.com/dpo7/app/US_en/dpo.jsp that I use for making the designs and saving them to my local computer for later printing. Great idea and a great website Screwy. I'd like to get away from hand-jammin anything which has to be stuck on a bottle to prevent playing beer roulette... :cheer:

Welcome to the obsession. Another one hooked. BTW, outstanding choice in glassware!

http://www.byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/568-draft-widgets-a-soft-water-mr-wizard Here's a link on water. Plus there's a lot of contemporary research ongoing with water. IMHO I think water testing is important, whether it comes from the city, a co-op, a well or the grocery store.

Fire1177 wrote: By gentle shake, do you mean shaking th lbk a little to unsettle everything on the bottom? If it is still 7 points off from where it should be then I may just let the fermentation go 20 days and then bottle on Sunday. I will test again tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys. yes. A gentle shake or swirl at most. Also, check temps to make sure you are in a good range. However, it's possible the yeast just gave up the ghost. If so, your beer will just be a tad maltier than normal. No worries.

I think the standard WCPA should start around 1038 and finish around 1010, + or - a skosh on either side. I wouldn't feel totally comfortable bottling at 1017 without giving it a gentle shake, checking my temp and at least give the yeast a chance to hit expected attenuation.

FedoraDave wrote: You really need the Original Gravity reading to know for sure, but you can still take another reading tomorrow, and if it's the same as what you got today, it's ready to bottle. FD - I really thought you would be attaching that Question Protocol link to a lot more of your responses LOL! @Fire - I know you didn't take an OG, but if you can let us know what went into the recipe, we could get a pretty good calculation of what the OG and FG SHOULD be, and then you can determine whether you have actually hit FG, or if your fermentation might be a little stuck...

There's an even older thread on this where I posted pictures of my slimline which burst during bottling. I wasn't even using it to ferment-just to cold crash. For an extra 3 or 4 bucks, go with something more durable, IMO. Every beer is sacred...

texasbrewer0069 wrote: Let it condition at room temp then put it in the fridge... conditioning should be done at room temperature ... +1 If you already broke the seal on the one-liter and then rebottled, you might consider adding some sugar to re-prime it. Without being able to know your carb start point after opening and transferring to the smaller bottle, a safe bet would be 1/2 tsp for the pint bottle ...at room temp as TB notes...

No you don't need one. However over time you may develop a preference based on PITA factor. I used to always go naked, regardless of whether pellet or whole. Now I bag the whole hops just to save time, still naked with pellet tho..but that's based on my setup and process. Yours may be different and require a different decision.

Alright infidel. Brewing beer in the ME can be risky in any condition!...but you asked about water. Boiling the water would only fix the 'poo' factor in your water and some of the easily driven off impurities. It won't fix it if it has heavy metals, petroluem based contamination or other junk - nor would the 1 step. You didn't mention where exactly or how the water is fixed --desalination, RO, chemical filtration etc. A water test would give you snapshot. A full profile would tell you a lot more. Beyond that, it's a guess.