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jeremy0209

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About jeremy0209

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. "alb" post=378945 said:I know there's no bittering hop addition. It didn't seem to need it when I made it with extract. I make a pale ale that doesn't have any hop additions until T-15....it's awesome. The keg is usually gone in three weeks. I love hopbursting. You get the IBU's that you need plus you get a TON of flavor and aroma......my kind of beer.
  2. Update: I put them in the fridge yesterday at ~38F. I just cracked one and it didn't overflow....it foamed to the top of the bottle, but it didn't overflow. Hopefully this all but rules out bottle bombs. I'm thinking I might just keep them refrigerated instead of trying to rebottle. The beer is excellent and I fear I may screw it up if I try to rebottle. Just pour it in a glass, let it sit for 10 min, and, viola, proper carbonation level. I guess entering them in an upcoming competition is out, though.
  3. "Screwy Brewer" post=274848 said:Ok, I'll bite. What caused the fermentation to stall at 1.020 for 20 days and then decide to attenuate down to 1.014 once in the bottles? Your guess is as good as mine. Actually, your guess is probably better than mine. I can tell you this: my taste buds tell me that it isn't infected, I'm extremely anal about sanitation, and I pitched plenty of clean, healthy yeast (rehydrated S-04...they were screaming at me from the pyrex bowl to put them in the wort.) I know it's cliche, but this has never happened to me before. :laugh:I was thinking that the introduction of the priming sugar coupled with the movement from fermenter to bottling bucket to bottles woke the little bastards up. At least that's how I'm explaining it in my little head.
  4. Sooooo I made a Chocolate Stout that started at 1.061 and was at 1.022 within 72 hours....it stayed there for the next 20 days, so I bottled. oops. Now I have approx 44 volcanoes at 1.014. I've been trying to bleed the bottles with minimal success. Here's what I think I'm going to do: dump it....just kidding :evil: Actually I'm going to chill them as cold as I can, then carefully pour them back into the fermenting bucket, allow it to warm, and add 2 oz of boiled corn sugar. Hopefully this starts a 'mini fermentation' and that, combined with the escaping CO2, will scrub off any oxygen that I introduce when pouring the bottles back into the bucket. I figure it's worth a try...if I just let it go, I'll probably be looking at bombs, so it's either that or dump it....and dumping beer goes against my religion. :evil: Thoughts?
  5. I just went back through my notes and found that I had a Munton's IPA can that started at 1.052 and ended at 1.016. That was fermented with harvested Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale. According to my notes, I pitched the correct amount of yeast. Sometimes I question the fermentability of these hopped malt extract kits. They're not all like that, but I've had one or two.
  6. "alb" post=267136 said:Kegging is easier than bottling, you said. Sanitizing is important, you said. Patience is the key, you said. RDWHAHB, you said. You were right. :drinking: ^^^what she said. :chug:
  7. it's not as bad as it seems. 58% is a little lower than the typical 66% you want for a stout. Should still be awesome. Did you rehydrate the yeast? I find that, if I rehydrate dry yeast, I never have an attenuation problem. edit: actually, after correcting for the fact that I suck at math, it looks like 63% attenuation....even better.
  8. "Beer-lord" post=264934 said:That Bastard isn't cheap is it? Just for reference: I remember seeing this at a local beer distributor and I think it was around $84.00 for a case of 24 12oz bottles. I could be mistaken, but it's definitely up there.
  9. "swenocha" post=263862 said:I filled my small dorm fridge with these and cranked it all the way. The first one I opened did not gusher, but when poured into an extra-large mug, it was very, very foamy (and a bit slushy). Let it sit for 20 minutes and it was good to go. I guess that's my solution for the rest of these. Flavor is still spot-on, so I'm good with that process. I simply moved any other beers to the big garage beer fridge and away I go. I've since set the dorm fridge at a not-quite-as-cold temperature, so we'll see how that affects... I've had that problem in the past and I associated it with not cleaning the bottles as well as I should have. Now I make sure that when I clean bottles, I REALLY clean them. Oxyclean and a scrubbing with a bottle brush followed by a thorough rinsing. It's a pain in the ass, but, IMO, it's the only way to go.
  10. "D Rabbit" post=261952 said:Nicely done! What was the score you received on it? I'm not sure...still waiting on the score sheet.
  11. "D Rabbit" post=261877 said: "jeremy0209" post=261876 said:That may correct itself with more conditioning time....I've had a some that have very little or no head when they are 'ready' and quite a few of them ended up being really great....lacing and all. Also, as soon as mine are carbed, I store them cold. Don't know if that makes a difference, but I like to believe that it does. That actually really slows down the process. Yeast continues doing work unless you put them to sleep. So if your beer reaches a point where you thing "Wow, this beer can't taste any better than this very moment" than sure, throw them in the fridge. The yeast will fall out and nothing more will happen to the beer. But if you do that than you will truly never know if that is the true apex of that beer. So technically, after 21 days (full time for carbing to take place) you put your beers in an environment that stops the yeast and prevents the beer from properly aging, which can take anywhere from 2 weeks to several months to age to its full potential. I'm not going to argue over technique because, as they say, YMMV. I will, however, tell you that I brewed a Scottish 60 in November of last year and last Saturday (5/12) that beer placed first at it's table in a regional BJCP competition (http://www.parenfaire.com/brewfest/2012.php)...after 5 months of cold conditioning. So I stand by my original statement...cold conditioning improves my beer.
  12. That may correct itself with more conditioning time....I've had a some that have very little or no head when they are 'ready' and quite a few of them ended up being really great....lacing and all. Also, as soon as mine are carbed, I store them cold. Don't know if that makes a difference, but I like to believe that it does.
  13. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/using-pasta-maker-mill-grain-75784/ Using this thread as my guide, I converted a pasta mill....it works well, but it seems kind of cheap to me...I'm always waiting for it to break especially on really hard grain like wheat. I think when it does break, I'll probably be looking to motorize a corona style mill.
  14. Life isn't so good for my Phils so far. I have a feeling it's gonna be a long year. :shoot: :smash:
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