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Everything posted by Scottbrew

  1. Most fruit beers do not require a hop addition. It tends to clash with the fruit. Fruit beer tends to be more malty. Just the style of beer and my opinion. FWIW. :cheers:
  2. "MattP1981" post=346548 said:Well good to know on the amount and times to toast! Think the Fuggles are a good choice? Watch'em closely when toasting because the oats will burn quickly if you are not paying attention. Burnt is not a good flavor profile. :drinking:
  3. "k9dude" post=346524 said:I use 1/2 lb of oats in all my LBK sized oatmeal stouts and they've come out great. In fact in my collaboration brew I'm doing with RayYankee we're using 1/2 lb of flaked oats. I use a full pound for 5 gallon batches. Most oatmeal stout recipes I've seen use this amount. I toast them 60 min at 325F turning every 15 minutes. +1 I use 1/2 lb of oatmeal in all my LBK batches and toast 60 minutes as well. :gulp:
  4. "Beer-lord" post=346483 said:Just my opinion but I think 1/2 lb of flaked oats is too much. I'd do 1/4 pound but as I've just used oats for the first time in my stout, I'd love to hear from those who have and what they think. I use oats in all my stouts and love them. However, I brown them first in the oven to draw out the flavor and then steep. yummy!!!! :cheers:
  5. "RickBeer" post=343840 said:I think it keeps it away from the nozzle, which is the desired goal, but haven' measured the front vs. back depth. You may be right, I just haven't noticed much of a difference. :popbeer:
  6. Nice pictures of the LBKs on the CD case. I notice your picture was similar to mine in that using the CD does not really force the trub to the back of the fermentor. Both pictures show trub equally throughout the bottom. This was very similar to my experience, so I don't use a CD case anymore because I don't believe it has effect on trub accumulation. This appears to be more fiction than fact. :cheers:
  7. "packerduf" post=342905 said: "richtazz" post=342836 said:...Can you mix up sanitizer in the Slimline, place your racking tubing inside it to sanitize them, then empty the sanitizer through the slimline's spigot into your bottles to sanitize them... Absolutely, you can. +1 Its how I do it. :popbeer:
  8. "swenocha" post=342133 said:You can easily scale any recipe down to 2.4 gallon. I either do AG like that or in 3 gallon better bottles almost exclusively. Just cut any recipe down by a factor of .48 (or .5 if you don't care to be that precise). I also do lagers all of the time... Two weeks in the lager fridge, 4 days or so out of the fridge for a d-rest, and a couple more weeks in the fridge, then bottle. +1 to what Swen says. I exclusively do 2.4 gallon batches and use 5 gallons recipes and cut them by .5, mainly because I am lazy and it's easy. I have done one lager and used the same method as Swen and it came out great. I have 2 lbks and one slimline and everything works great for me. :cheers:
  9. I'm drinking mine right now. I used the Robust as well. I lightly carbed (2.0) per style and I like it. A very enjoyable winter brew. :cheers:
  10. "manosteel9423" post=340340 said:Just make stouts and porters...no need to worry about clarity!! :stout: :pound: I do in the winter. Like good IPA's and Pale Ale's in the summer.
  11. Don't know if it's right or not, but I store my unused DME, LME, grains and yeast in my beer fridge and hops in the freezer. I believe I read it here on the borg, somewhere. :charlie:
  12. If you go commando with the hops, like I do, cold crashing will help drop the hop particles into the trub and in turn not clog the spigot.
  13. "BlackDuck" post=337660 said:Good move on the 15 minute Citra addition!! I would definitely dry hop it. It really needs it. +1 on the dry hop. Dry hopped mine and it turned out well. :cheers:
  14. I can't comment on the Winter Dark because I just bottled it yesterday. I will let you know in a few weeks. Regarding the Diabolo, I am drinking it now. I did a small hop boil in .5 lbs of light dme. I did .25 of Liberty for 20 minutes and .25 Liberty at 7 minutes. I used Liberty because its what I had on hand. Personally, I like it and would consider it an IPA. I will do it again in the future for a quick easy brew. I give it two thumbs up. :stout:
  15. I purchased the last 3 cans of ADIPA during the clearance sale I think for 4-5 bucks a can - I can't remember exactly. I am looking for a cheap beer with no extra cost than the cost of the HME's. I am going brew all 3 cans like a seasonal. I have .5 ounces of Northern Brewer Hops in the freezer so I am going to split it and do a 20 and 7 minute boil - commando. I don't have any DME on hand so I am going to the boil with some booster I have had laying around for about a year. I know I should use DME, however, this is a cheap beer and we will see what happens. Brew on!!!! :chug:
  16. Scottbrew


    Brewed Novacaine last March and cracked it on Thanksgiving and all gone by Christmas. My family loved it as a holiday beer. Its a great recipe. Too bad the old recipe is gone with the new cooper extracts. I plan on brewing a barleywine this March as well but will have to go elsewhere for the recipe. :gulp:
  17. I used them a year or so ago. The first batch was crap - flat beer. The rest went in the garbage and I went back to cane sugar.
  18. "Screwy Brewer" post=325534 said:Just thought I'd post an update on my progress using the EdgeStar mini-kegs. This morning I tapped another keg of my Bottoms Up Brown Ale. This time to avoid the foaming issues I had after tapping the first keg I put the keg in the unit last night and set the temperature to 38F. Today after tapping the keg I carefully pulled out the piercing tube until I heard a very loud gush of Co2 pressure leaving the keg. Since the kegs are naturally carbonated and there is no relief valve built into the mini-kegs you have to relieve all the carbonating pressure manually to prevent foaming pours. It'll be several hours before I do a test pour, it's early and I'm still sipping coffee, but they should be a whole lot better than my first try. So hows it working out. May have to buy one. They are 50% off right now on Amazon.
  19. Technical question. Can the bungs be reused or do you need a new one for each keg?
  20. "Beer-lord" post=296852 said:Whenever I read about this and adding hops to other recipes, I always go back to wishing the Mr. Beer folks would share with us, the hops that are used in each of the styles. It would make it a bit easier for some of us to tweak the recipes to our liking. Not necessary but helpful. +1 Agreed. It wouldn't be too hard just to list an ingredient section right on the can, just like other canned food. Would make it easier.
  21. Been awhile since my last post, though I have been lurking around. I was planning to brew Diablo straight up, but after reading this thread I changed my plans. I brewed it last weekend on a whim with what I had laying around. I boiled a pound of light DME. Looked in my freezer as to what left over hops I had. Most of my leftovers were better for stouts than IPA's. I found .5 ounces of Liberty, so I decided to use it. No hop sack, no problem, threw .25 ounces in the boil commando for 20 minutes. Will dry hop the other.25 commando after a week. I will report back if its improved - or not!!!
  22. Put mine on d-rest yesterday after 2 weeks in the basement. Gravity checks in at 1.018 and it smells great. Plan on going 3 days at 64 and then in the fridge for 2 weeks and then in the bottle. Moving right along.
  23. Kealia wrote: All is looking good. I stopped screwing with the temp controller (since the JC is on my keg fridge) and left it alone and I've settled in at 47/48 for the past 5 days or so. On the low end of the yeast's range but I'm not concerned at all. I'll still plan on a d-rest at the end to help finish things off. No sulfur smell at all. I wonder if that only comes from pitching warm (I didn't). Are you putting the LBK in the fridge after the d-rest or are you going directly to bottling? By the way, mine had no sulfur smell either and I an currently around 55 give or take. Hard to tell because its sitting on the basement floor.
  24. Kealia wrote: Scottbrew wrote: Interesting...so 2 weeks at 48 - then 2 days of D-Rest then 2 weeks in the fridge at 38 degrees. Then bottling and carbing for 2 weeks at room temp. Then back in the fridge for 30 days. Do I have it right from all the messages? Have you done this before with other lagers? This is my first so I am trying to make it right. Yes I have and it works for me - but everybody has their own method, really. There is no absolute. As long as you control your fermenting temps and do a D-rest just to be safe, the rest is variable. I know it's your first lager but don't worry too much. You'll be hard pressed to do anything wrong. kdubbleu wrote: I brewed my imperial pilsner last night and put it in my mini fridge (49*) right away. Now im reading this thread and it looks like i should have waited to cool it until i saw definate signs of fermentation. should i pull it out and let it warm up or is it to late? It will still work right ill just have a long lag time? Just leave it. With enough yeast, it's OK to pitch cold (or at fermenting temps). If Jamil and Palmer are OK with it, I am too. By the time it warmed up it would probably be taking off anyway. What yeast really don't like is a lot of temp swings so just let it ride and you'll be fine. Cool beans!!! I am brewing tomorrow using your timeline. I am sure it will turn out fine.
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