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Scottbrew

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Everything posted by Scottbrew

  1. Kealia wrote: After the D-rest I plan on 2 weeks in the fridge at around 38 before bottling (in the primary). Then, carbing at room temp. Then back into the fridge for at least a month before testing. Not saying it's right or wrong - just my plan. Interesting...so 2 weeks at 48 - then 2 days of D-Rest then 2 weeks in the fridge at 38 degrees. Then bottling and carbing for 2 weeks at room temp. Then back in the fridge for 30 days. Do I have it right from all the messages? Have you done this before with other lagers? This is my first so I am trying to make it right.
  2. Beer-lord wrote: Kealia wrote: My plan is just about spot-on with Trollby's with the following differences: 1)1/4 lb Carapils 2) After bottling I'll leave at room temp for 2 weeks before cold conditioning With any luck, I'm whipping this up this coming weekend. I think I'm going to carbon copy you down to brewing it this weekend. I'm hoping to have my thermo control for the mini fridge by this weekend but if not, I'll start with the ice chest to keep it in the low to mid 50's. Actually, at it's highest setting, this fridge seems to keep a temp of 56. Just don't hear it kick on that much so I'm not sure how high and low the temp changes go.I am going to copy this as well this weekend. The only difference is I am going to steep 1/4 lb Carafoam as my LHBS doesn't carry Carapils. I need to do it this weekend and ferment in the basement as temp. in the basement is perfect this time of year.
  3. Looks great!!!!! I just ordered Novacaine and should be here next week. I am brewing it up for Thanksgiving as well.
  4. I ordered Novacaine earlier this week. Like Screwy, I am planning to crack open on Thanksgiving while deep frying the bird.
  5. SenorPepe wrote: Trollby wrote: not like the shape is important for the beer. I have gotten dented cans from Mr. Beer and never called them, now if the can was leaking yes I would but they are not so fine. {/rant} True. Except for big caveat: Bulging could be botulism. In that case, the shape is important for the beer, and your life. Otherwise, brew on. I don't think I'm teaching you somethin new, Trollby, but figured it's best to put out the PSA for people who are unaware. I brewed an ADIPA with the one can dented and both expired by 2 years with no ill effects.
  6. mashani wrote: The jam the wand in never has bugged me either, except for the one time I didn't jam it in far enough, and it fell off after I filled a couple of bottles. I lost a beer that way. Made me sad. I went ahead and ordered because my second LBK I bought off of Ebay has the old style spigot and its a pain to fill bottles with. The whole tubing and bottle wand does seem strange, kind of makes the bottling wand obsolete. Could just fill the bottles using the spigot and just turn it on and off after every bottle. With it being a handle it shouldn't be too much trouble doing that.
  7. Trollby wrote: The W-34/70 is more forgiving that the White labs yeast. Pitching instructions: Re-hydrate the dry yeast into yeast cream in a stirred vessel prior to pitching. Sprinkle the dry yeast in 10 times its own weight of sterile water or wort at 23C ± 3C. Once the expected weight of dry yeast is reconstituted into cream by this method (this takes about 15 to 30 minutes), maintain a gentle stirring for another 30 minutes. Then pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel. Alternatively, pitch dry yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20C. Progressively sprinkle the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes and then mix the wort e.g. using aeration. Fermentation temperature: Recommended fermentation temperature: 9C – 15C (48-59° F), ideally 12C (55F). Sooo... I am at the high end of the range. Garage is too cold about 40. Don't have a cooler or any other vessel the LBK fits in. I assume a wet towel or T-Shirt would work, but what a pain. Any other suggestions to keep in temp. range?
  8. I just ordered mine. Never tried a lager before, so I am looking forward to trying it. My basement is about 58 in the winter here in Ohio. Does this sound right: 2 weeks fermenting at 58; 1 week at 68; bottle, carb and condition at 58 for 2 months.
  9. Just ordered and looking forward to trying it. I guess from the posts you have attach a tube to the spigot and then the bottling wand. Is that correct?
  10. I've used Munton's twice and they sucked both times, so I pitched em. Haven't tried coopers. I just use plain table sugar and it works great.
  11. You can try this one. I haven't yet but it has gotten good reviews. I assume you can substitute any peppers you want. http://www.mrbeer.com/product-exec/product_id/250/nm/Fire_in_the_Hole_Chile_Beer1
  12. My worry would be bombs not carb, it will probably carb okay, but I would bag that sucker.
  13. Just go into the recipe section and pull up First Pitch Pilsner and you can print out the directions.
  14. I brewed an ADIPA that expired in June 2009 and I pitched the yeast under the lids with no problems. The beer just turned out a little darker.
  15. wrote: Welcome Scubalatious!! Glad to see another Cleveland area person! The LHBS that is closest to you is JW Dover (www.jwdover.com) on Detroit (near Columbia and Detroit). I have been there a lot to get beer and wine supplies and they are pretty informative. They have a fair amount of supplies and are pretty well stocked with hops. The next closest is Rozi's Wine House (www.rozis.com) in Lakewood but I have not been there yet. A couple of other places are Leeners (www.leeners.com) in Northfield and if you dont mind the trip, Grape and Granery (www.grapeandgranary.com) in Akron. GG is a hard core home brew shop that has or can get just about anything you need. Have fun! :chug: Wadsworth, Ohio here. I am into this now for a little over a year. I am now moving on from extracts into grains slowly. The only advice I give you with this hobby is patience, patience, and more patience. Once you get a good pipeline going it will be easier to wait, but it is a hobby that requires a lot of waiting around. I still buy some from Mr. Beer but I am now creating my own recipes. I shop at the grape and granary because it is about 20 minutes from my house. I concur that it is hardcore. They do sell Mr. Beer products and the people working do not trash it like some other LHBS. The people are very helpful. If anybody has any specific questions, please feel free to shoot me a PM. Brew On!!! :barman:
  16. mnstarzz13 wrote: Scottbrew wrote: gbryant wrote: I always use the hydro sample and either drink it at bottling or use it to top of the trubby bottle at the end. I haven't had problems doing it this way. Just be sure to sanitize your hydro each time if you plan to place the satellite fermentor wort into the trub bottle to ensure that bottle does not get infected. Yeah, I always do. Forgot to mention that in my original post. Good catch.
  17. gbryant wrote: I just take a sample from the spigot and then sanitize the spigot with some one step or other sanitizing material using a q-tip. I would not just float the hydrometer in the LBK, that could cause all kinds of problems including infection in the beer. Some people do pour the sample back in the LBK. If you are going to do that sanitize everything, hydrometer and cylinder tube holding sample. I don't pour it back in. I use the sample to taste the beer. One, I want to taste it anyway, to see where its at in the process and if there is anything I want to do (like dry hop in a secondary) to change the flavor. And two, I don't want to risk contaminating the whole batch for two or so ounces of beer. I take a sample after 2 weeks and pour into an empty water bottle and use it as a sattelite fermentor for about a week. I poke a hole in the cap to let the co2 escape. I use the water bottle sample to take additional hydro readings. I always use the hydro sample and either drink it at bottling or use it to top of the trubby bottle at the end. I haven't had problems doing it this way.
  18. Welcome aboard!!! There's plenty of room!!!! :gulp:
  19. What are you using the booster for? 15 years is a long time. This summer I brewed ADIPA that had expired in June 2009 and used the yeast as well. I hit OG and FG right on the button. It came out a little darker, however, but tasted fine.
  20. SmokeDiver3zero wrote: Added a cup of Booster and a cup of honey OG: 1.070 FG: 1.022 ABV 6.3% Got 3 bags from Cabels.com for less then $19 shipped. 1 bag makes 2.6 gal Cabels.com or cabelas.com??? Let us know how it turns out.
  21. Beerlabelman wrote: Hi Kealia - I was thinking the same thing when I got my Corny so that's why I decided to prime in the keg. I'm leaving at room temp for 4 weeks before I chill it. Bleed, add some CO2 then tap & serve. At Capt Lawrence they ferment, Carb, keg & store in the cooler for 2-4 weeks before it goes out. With the beer we're making, we have to condition as usual. Thanks for posting this topic, very informative. Send me beer. :work: I kegged my first batch of Imperial Stout in a corny around thanksgiving and naturally carbed it. I tapped it at Christmas but didn't bleed of the excess co2. As screwy said, first glass was nothing but foam. I let it settle on the counter and got about a 1/2 glass from it. After the first glass, I haven't had any problems. I've poured about 8 pints from the keg and haven't hit the co2 charger yet.
  22. I use both plastic and glass. Depends on what's availble at bottling time. I am also starting to Keg and I have one Party Pig (Christmas Present). I guess I am all over the Board. I think eventually I will want to move more into kegging.
  23. You might be a little light on the malt, given the amount of adjuncts you are putting in the recipe. My suggestion would be a full pound of DME. Your recipe can handle it.
  24. You have to click on the link farther on down the page.
  25. I would just use honey and save the booster for the hard lemonade or cider. Just my 2 cents.
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