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skydvr

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About skydvr

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. I've never used spices, but I think that would be a good idea. I think you want to remove them prior to fermentation, so the bag would help with that.
  2. skydvr

    Mead

    "jersey john" post=275997 said: ... i added some fruit juice [1-cup per gal] ... Have you had time to judge how that ratio works? I just made my first mead yesterday, and I plan to add cranberry to the seondary, but I'm totally guessing how much to put in. It's a 32 oz jar (3 gal of mead), so I was just going to add the whole jar. That's about 1.25 cups/gal. I don't want it to come out as a "hard cran" though - I'd prefer it to be somewhat subtle - a "mead with cran", vs a "cran with alcohol". Just wondering how the cup:gal ratio turned out...
  3. also, with the SS rod, it's easier to move the stone around the wort, which increases the amount of wort exposed to O2. I would probably aerate rather than oxygenate, just to save the money on the system, except that I don't want to add 20 mins (or so) to the whole process. I'd rather pay a little and be done in a minute. Other than that, I would believe that they were equivalent...
  4. Like they said, when I was doing research on doing a fruit mead, I read that fruit added to primary will taste like a fermented fruit (IE: wine), whereas fruit added to secondary will taste more like the natural fruit. But, I'm just passing on what I've read - I haven't made it yet...
  5. I'm happy to do it, but I'm not sure what kind of "setup" info you're looking for. I have an O2 tank, a stone, a regulator and tubing. I've only used it for a couple of batches, but I've gotten stronger fermentations the times that I've used it. Maybe I've just used better procedures those times, and it's all coincidence - who knows. But, yeast needs O2 to work well, and this seems like a more effective way to provide it... Any specific questions, let me know...
  6. yep, I use one and use the calculators. I got it because it seemed so easy to use, and wastes so little wort. I've been happy with it...
  7. won't the longer boil contribute a higher gravity as well as increased body by concentrating the wort? I was more wondering what the longer mash would do - you've converted most of the starch in less than the hour - is it just to try to eek out every last little bit? Sorry that I can't comment on the recipe, other than to agree that the one thing that I've read about cloves is that a little goes a LONG way...
  8. Sounds tasty. What part does the flaked wheat play?
  9. losman26 wrote: I was honestly suprised they signed him, after his attitude of last year. He quit on the team in some games, which makes me think we have another Randy Moss/ TO type of player. Good when they wanna be, but a cancer otherwise. I think that stemmed from his hold-out in pre-season, and the team saying "just report, be a professional, and we'll work it all out". So he did, and the team did nothing. The effort that he showed was his way of holding out, without holding out. He hadn't been a "show up when I want to" player in his previous years, so I'm (obviously) hoping that those years were more indicative of his true attitude than last year... I wonder what Desean thinks about the use of a refractometer.
  10. losman26 wrote: Yeah I saw this site as well. Are you happy now that your boy Dsean Jackson is signed? It depends on whether he earns the money that they gave him. If he plays like last year, then no - I'll wish he had become some other team's problem. But, if he goes back to "form", and doesn't suffer from alligator arms and "run right out of bounds"-itis on punt returns, then sure, I'm glad that they locked him up for a bit. I guess the short answer is, "time will tell"....
  11. Just as a comment, IMO you don't need to pre-heat the tun. If you do, fine. If you don't, fine. The only difference will be how much heat is drawn off of the initial infusion of strike water. So, if you don't pre-heat, your strike water will need to be hotter than if you do pre-heat, since the "cooler" tun will draw more of that initial heat. It can all be programmed into BeerSmith, either way. My 2 cents, YMMV, IMO, etc, etc.
  12. There's also a combination of no-sparge and batch-sparge, where you add the sparge water just prior to draining (but after mashing)....
  13. I'll just throw this out there, since I haven't seen it mentioned. I used a bazooka screen - it's steel mesh, and it doesn't collapse. I don't know all the pros and cons, but for me, it was simple, it was cheap (enough), and the guy who taught the AG class that I went to used one and recommended it. I guess a con is that it's only in the center, of the tun and maybe the sides don't drain as effectively. Oh, and it's not tiresome to clean.
  14. russki wrote: At this point, I'm kind of thinking of just leaving my lagers in primary for 4 weeks (with a D-rest in there somewhere), and just bottling. That's what I did with the Pilothouse Pilsner that I did with S-23. 2 weeks ferment, couple of days for D-rest then lowered temp and left it in there for a couple more weeks. Good luck, and let us know how it all works out...
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