Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About BigPapaG

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  1. I use a lot of liquid yeast, many different strains... and have used dry yeast as well. My experience has been less conclusive with regard to either form having a consistantly longer or shorter lag time. For me, it seems to be more about the strain of yeast (some have been rockets, others have taken as much as 72 hours to get busy), the age of the sample (older = less cells so generally slower), the size of the pitch (less cells = slower) and temperature (cooler = slower). In some cases, it seems the yeast go dormant (from a fermentation perspective) while they reproduce and improve their numbers and then suddenly 'bloom' into full blown fermentation activity! This is especially true when I know the cell count is low or the yeast is older and generally when I don't make a starter.
  2. @Doc It was Gynrat... I tried searching for you but as you may already know, none of the 'pre-upgrade' posts are available or indexed for searching. Even went to the Wayback Machine website but was unsuccessful. Then I remembered that Roger made it available on the Beersmith Cloud... http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/188475/ralphs-bourbon-barrel-porter Happy Brewing! :-)
  3. I wonder if something like this will work? http://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/product_view/oregonglassblower/5229834/18mm_glass_on_glass_charcoal_filter_made_in_oregon_25/handmade/accessories
  4. Yup... Actually a little too big... But, you can just add more malt and raise the volume to 3 gallons! Brew on!
  5. "Elko brewer" post=389720 said:Thanks for all the help guys. I checked out the smack PAC and it seems that I did get the nutrient PAC broke this morning I did just give it a little shake hope that's not a bad thing. So I guess the only thing I can do is ride it out. When it starts to activate I will make a starter and see if I can blow the lid off the fermenter. I popped two smack packs before brewing two days ago... By the the time I was done brewing and ready to pitch, the packs were not swollen at all. Pitched them anyway... No worries, fermenting away nicely! This has happened before, no worries... Sometimes the yeast go into a cycle of regeneration which sometimes leads to a longer lag time. Once they are ready, off they go! I have seen this take up to a few days if still in the package, or...if pitched, up to 72 hours! If nothing happens by then, my plan would be to pitch new yeast... Never had to do that though...
  6. "zorak1066" post=389504 said:was going to use it for beer flavoring and just noticed it lists sodium sulfite as a preservative. how likely will this bother the yeast? thanks Pretty sure it's not good for your yeast... Even small amounts of sulphites can cause yeast to develop respiratory defects. Better to use fresh or go with Brewer's Best brand which does not list sulphites on their package.
  7. Looks nice, regardless of the chill haze! (I never let that bother me.) Sorry the house Brett was surpressed though! :cheers:
  8. "Header75" post=388829 said: "BigPapaG" post=388817 said:What yeast did you use? I used Safale T58.....it came with the kit. According to the specsheet for T-58, it can ferment at between 53.6-77*F. It goes further to say tha the IDEAL temp range is: 59-68*F. Link to the spec sheet: http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFBT58.pdf I think it if were me, I would run at 60-62*F for primary (3-5 days) and then let it warm up to 66-68*F for the remainder of the 21 day fermentation period. I have used T-58 a lot and can tell you that I have allowed temps to rise into the mid to upper 70's with good results. The warmer temps really bring out the Belgian charcter in my opinion. But, since you stated you are doing a BM clone... You might not want all that Belgian goodness and keeping it a little cooler should surpress that a bit.
  9. "steveabrous" post=388753 said:correct I racked to secondary and added raspberries. And, uhm, no I don't have a hydrometer :sweat: As a reminder, visible activity and even airlock activity are not always present after primary fermentation, even if you add stuff... The best indicator is a change in the specific gravity of the wort. A hydrometer is required for this and is probably the best $8-$10 you will spend. You could watch for changes in gravity, and once the gravity settles and doesn't change over the course af a couple of days you would know it was done. I recommend you consider getting one if you can.
  10. Yup, had the HiCu from MH too... Mind you, I'm not fond of MH beers in general, but I found the Hibiscus-Cucumber to be... Well... . . . . . . .Worse than them all. :sick: Maybe it was the Hibiscus... Best of luck to you Vince, let us know how it turns out please...
  11. Jeff, I would use German Pils Liquid Extract (if doing an extract brew, Williams Brewing has it) or Weyerman German Pilsner (if AG, Biab, PM) and for the English malt, Muntons (dry extract) or either Optic or Fanfare if going AG, BIAB or PM ( the description says it is Light Golden so Marris Otter might be off the mark... But could work ). For the hops, I have used Galaxy... Fairly popular around WNY... Lots of citrus and passonfruit when used as an aroma hop, I don't care for passionfruit flavor, so I usually use it for aroma, and tend to flavor with Amarillo or Citra... (I would describe the Galaxy flavor as 'juicy' and heavy on the passionfruit). You may like the flavor more than me. BTW: Alb has said on this forum that she loves that hop! Works as a bittering hop as well. At 5.4%, sounds like a good one! EDIT: Oh yeah, probably use Wyeast 1056 or US-05 as a solid yeast for this. EDIT: I have not had the pleasure of trying this beer... Just going by description here.... Happy Brewing!
  • Create New...