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BigPapaG

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Everything posted by BigPapaG

  1. Depends on your palette... But it should be ok... It has the hop level of many lite American beers...
  2. "hindey19" post=387275 said:What should it generally be at? If it makes any difference, I think the majority of the 60 minutes was at 155. Well, it can be 146-160*F but there is a big difference over a small number of degrees... Here's a chart that shows how fermentability drops as temperature rises. Note that the percentage of dextrines rises as well providing more mouthfeel as mash temps rise. EDIT: So, if you think you were at 155*F 'most' of the time (and maybe as high as 158-160*F), your resulting wort would be 75-80% fermentable according to the chart. You can figure that your yeast might average 75% attenation of that 75-80% (fermentable portion of your wort)... That's gonna leave 25% of the fermentable wort unfermented, as well as the 20-25% of the total wort unfermented, resulting in a higher final gravity. In other words, a greayer amount of unfermentable sugar will remain. Also there will be more dextrins... And less total ABV. This will result in beer that is sweeter than expected, with more mouthfeel and less buzz... But it WILL be beer none the less...
  3. "hindey19" post=387259 said:For those asking, I mashed at 155-160F for 60 minutes. That's a fairly high mash temp... It's likely that you produced a wort with a lot of unfermentable sugars...
  4. Looks like bits-o-grain... Should settle out in the whirlpool... Proceed! All is well!
  5. All of you make this the best place to be! :cheers:
  6. Temp control s ost importamt for the period of primary fermentation... Usually anywhere from 3-7 days... So I always figure about a week... You can keep controlling the temp where you want it for the whole 21+ days if you want... Else you could do what I do and let it rise to 68-69 (which is where my house usualy is, and sometimes as warm as 71-72)... Either way, you should be fine... If you keep it cooler, let it climb the last 3-4 days though so the yeast get more active and finish their clean-up activities.
  7. "JohnSand" post=386640 said:Brewed the Simply Saison, using US Saaz, but made a mistake. I followed the MrBeer instructions, four cups of water to boil. The Munich went in with the hops, the pilsen after flame out. But that's not enough water for proper hop utilization. I'm way under-hopped. I am considering adding some bitter wort to increase IBUs. Assuming the AA% of the Saaz is about te same as the recipe, you might be ok... Yes, it will be a bit more malt forward, but if it attenuates well enough to help dry it out, and figure in the spicyness of the yeast... It could be a nice brew! You could drop some dry hops in for a day or so to provide a bit more aroma which will aid in the perception of hoppiness...
  8. "Brewbirds" post=386478 said: If the T-45 theory is correct I guess I don't have to worry about off flavors. Here's the supporting documentation from two sources on the difference in processing of the two types: Note: I wouldn't say the T-45's dissapear, more that there is either less (vegetal matter) to be found, and / or because there is less vegetal matter, it can escape the tea balls and hop sacks easier... http://www.hopunion.com/1017_HopPellets.cfm?p4=open and http://www.kettletokeg.com/blog/2012/05/t-90-versus-t-45-hop-pellets-what-does-it-mean/
  9. "Gymrat" post=386472 said:After reading some of "For the Love of Hops" I tried commando for dry hopping. I could not believe the difference. I had been using weighted hop sacks. I never got near the aroma as what I got from commando. +1 Maximizing the surface area of the hop to wort contact does make a big difference.
  10. 13... My favorite number! I vote for: Two ounces at 13% AA
  11. You are fine... Everything is hooked up right and as Big Floyd said, the fridge can only cool, it can't heat. Now, if you take a look at the web link that Jim Johnson provided, you can get to work on building the simple heater that you can plug into the heat side of the controller. Then the controller will be able to turn the heat on when the fridge gets too cold, and the fridge on whem it gets too warm. In the meantime, relax... All is well!
  12. "Btech117" post=386377 said:Ok well its been 30 minutes now - I pluged the fridge to box box to extention cord etc... Controller box shows 18.00 C - I set it to 20 and my "HEAT" Light is on though im pluged in the COOL outlet. The probe is just wrapped arround the rack in the middle of the fridge for now - How many deg C can beer fluctuate? It wont kick the compressor on F1 = 20.0 C F2 = .5 C F3 = 0.9 (didnt know how 10 is due to the fact it looks more like 1 and a little 0 F4 = 0.0 Sounds like it's working... Your target temp is 20*C and your controller says the temp is 18*C which is 2* colder that the target. Your varience is .5* so the heat circuit is active and trying to warm the them to 19.5*- 20.5*C (target temp +/- .5) Once the temp reads 20-20.5*F, the cool circuit should activate, supplying power to the fridge compressor.
  13. The ones that are disappearing on you may have been type T-45 pellets. There are two major types: T-90 pellets are made by processing the hops through a hammer mill producing a fine powder which is then extruded through a die producing the familiar pellet shape, generally a quarter to half inch long. They contain the entire amount of vegetal matter that they had when the process started, minus a bit of powdery dust. T-45 pellets are processed in much the same way, however as they are processed through the hammer mill, they are heated which makes the lupulin less sticky. This allows some of the vegetal matter to be removed. The remaining material is then process through the extrusion die the same way as the T-90 hops. In this way, T-45 hops can provide the same AA numbers as T-90 processed hop pellets, but with less overall matter in the boil pot at the end of the day.
  14. Some are sour, the style allows for that... Many however, are simply dry and tart. Often, there are spice and fruit notes... Keep trying, i had to try about six or eight smoked beers before I found one I liked...
  15. "RickBeer" post=386240 said:It will wake up if you remove it. As Philm00x said, if you don't have a thermometer, take it out and give it a day to warm up, don't count the frig days or today, and then go the 3 full weeks. +1 The yeast will get active again at room temp and will finish the job for you!
  16. "Beer-lord" post=386097 said:For me, it depends. I use this often both dry, reydrated and washed. If I use washed yeast in a starter, I get activity in 6-12 hours normally. Dry, it may take up to 24 hours for me to see some good activity. Rehydrated, I see it in about 18-24 hours. But as you may know there are many variables that will change this. +1 And I have seen different lag times based on the differences in the wort itself... ABV, malt/grain types, temperature, etc. I usually don't panic until about 60-72 hours after pitching... And even then, I don't panic... If nothing is happening by then, no krausen, no trub, no visible activity, then I consider re-pitching. When I panic is when the pipeline runs dry!
  17. A lot as been said and all true... Opinions on straining vary, but since it's already in there, I suppose you could go either way. i would be inclined to rack/bottle out from under it. What concerns me is this:(and this is just my ramblings on the matter, right, wrong or indifferent) There seems to be some greenish mold on top of some of the organic substrate that is floating on top of the beer in your picture. Mold is generally not a good thing in it's natural form. I would want to confirm that the beer fermented out to at least 2% ABV, or more in fact would be better. Less than that and some really bad bacteria and mold can survive and can be bad for you. SIDE NOTE: I bottled 5 gallons of great, non-infected beer about four weeks ago... BUT: I put the glass carboy aside to clean later and forgot about it... Wish I had taken a piture when I found it yesterday, before I saw this thread... Anyway, and maybe this is a testament to the protective attributes of hops, or the 5.9% ABV of the brew, but anyway, there was NO SIGN of either mold or bacteria, no foul smells and no change in olor of the yeast/trub, reaining bit of beer on top, nor the hops and hop sacks from the dry hop process. In fact, I actually considered washing the yeast to experiment with later... But I didn't. POINT IS: If I had no mold after four weeks at room temp with a full carboy full of headspace... I would be a little concerned about the quality of the fermentation on your batch... Just sayin'... It might be fine... By any chance, did you take a hydrometer reading before and after fermentation to calculate the ABV?
  18. If the spigot idn't leaking out, it shouldn't leak in... I don't generally sit my LBK's in water though, I use a wet t-shirt over it, and ice acks around it, and sit the whole thing in a plastic bin r on a cookie sheet. Many different ways to do this though... Whatever works best for you is the right way to do it, for you!
  19. Many of my brews start out at 1.060 or better and the little yeasties get the job done... I don't re-hydrate dry yeast (for no other reason than I have not seen a difference between hydrating and not...) Give it a few more hours to get really active and start bringing it down to the mid 60's... Or as low as you want... Remember, they will slow down a bit at cooler temps so overall primary fermentation will need a little more time.
  20. Probably 62... Holding it there is the issue as the brew will warm it up... So maybe 58... F.Y.I. Though... I have done a number of batches with US-05 in my almost always 68-70*F house without additonal cooling and the beer was great, no off flavors. If you are trying to get the yeast to ferment a certain way by keeping the temps cool, by all means have at it. So my point is, don't sweat it too much, you should be fine!
  21. Since you are interested in the temp of the liquid inside the LBK's, may I suggest you put a 2-liter pop bottle filled with water in the fridge and insert the probe in it. (assuming the probe you have is waterproof at the reading end). This way, you get actual liquid temp for the controller. Change the water every few weeks to prevent bacteria buildup. A UPS should not be needed as was stated before.
  22. Muslin hop sacks here as well... Commando is too much of a P.I.T. you know what... Haven't built or tried a hop spider as it's just another thing to wash I guess... Looks like it works great though...
  23. "mashani" post=385492 said:I think all 3 hops perhaps. I know they published the recipe at some point but I can't find the official version. I think this is it... Maybe... http://beerstreetjournal.com/the-official-saison-du-buff-home-brew-recipe/ EDIT: Hmmm, just re-read the recipe and there is some Citra slipped in there as a dry hop... I stand corrected!
  24. +1 but I believe it's Centennial and Amarillo as I recall...
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