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BigPapaG

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Everything posted by BigPapaG

  1. "haerbob3" post=385363 said:BB's remember that most of the flavor profile in a saison comes from the yeast. A little spice to accent the the esters. From a quick glance your recipe looks good. Do not forget that saisons are an old farmhouse style ale. Pretty much anything goes. The brews are fairly simple since they were brewed down on the farm. A good read for you would be Farmhouse Ales Northern Brewer has a good basic saison recipe As you can see it is very simple. That is one of the beauties of this style it can be what ever you want it to be. +1 and Farmhouse Ales is a great resource... And I have found that adding some 6-row adds a bit of rustic authenticity as well... The other thing to consider is the differences in your water profile from what might have come from the wells in France and Belgium... There was generally a bit more temporary hardness (bicarbonates) thanone might find in your home town supply... Might not be too important (I don't worry abut it here) but some might. Also, Some breweries use a small amount of dark malts to get some color but at least two breweries use a three hour boil on Pilsen malt to achieve same.
  2. IMHO, and based on my experience with it, 68-70*F is real nice for 3522... Good call!
  3. I agree with Paul on the Marris Otter... It's a great choice. The Munich will also self-convert but it does not have as much diastatic power as 2-row or MO. Having said that, I love some Munich in many styles of beer, including IPA's. Crush it as best you can and toss it in the mash. Casade will sub fine for Centennial, just adjust for any differences in AA%. (F.Y.I.: Centennial is also known as 'Super Cascade')
  4. "steveabrous" post=384942 said:How wide is that tubing? I think it is 1" I.D. Tubing, which makes it 1.125" or 1.25" O.D. When I bought it, I asked my LHBS for blowoff tubing that would fit directly into the carboy neck... They knew exactly what I wanted... I think I am using 4' of it to get the arc I needed into the cooler. I'm using a two gallon picnic cooler, half filled with water (some Star-San in it that was leftover from brew day as well)... An empty one gallon plastic milk jug works also... I used to change back to the airlock after the violent part pf primary fermentation was over, but it's summer so since I'm brewing less, I leave it in for the whole fermentation period... After all, it is an airlock.
  5. I used it as a dry hop on a Belgian Blond with good success (the beer took a silver and a bronze in competitions this year)... It added a nice spicy / herbal note to the aroma profile. I have an ounce and a half left and think it may end up in this year's Biere de Garde...
  6. "mashani" post=384635 said:Feeding Belgians is always fun and rewarding! EDIT: BTW, you don't really need to stir in the feedings, the yeast will still find it and chew it up. I just pour it in and walk away, and fireworks happen soon thereafter. +1 They always find it... I just pour mine in (cane sugar or turbinado I generally boil in some water and cool... Candi Syrup I just pour out of the pouch... Already sterile inside... Just sanitize the cap and neckof the bag...
  7. @ Matth I use smack packs all the time and find that for most 5 gallon ale batches, two of them are required... (four for a lager!) For two or three gallon ale brews, one whole pack is perfect. Don't fret it, dump it all in. 3068 s a great yeast... Make sure you give it as much headspace as you can as it is a true top cropping yeast... else, be sure you have something under your fermenter to catch the overflow. You can bring out more clove flavors by fermenting cooler and more banana at warmer temps... I find that 68*F produces a nice balance between the two.
  8. "Kealia" post=384520 said:I didn't want the alpha acids to isomerize as I wasn't looking for bitterness from this. I was targeting flavor and aroma and that was my reasoning for targeting the 170 rang. I didn't want the vaporization. I only used .33/oz for each of the two 'stands' and based on re-reading that and a few other things I think I need to go up a bit. Clearly I could jump to 1oz but I think I'll step-up to .50/oz for two additions my next time around and see what I get. I'm expecting that I will be able to skip the dry hop altogether once I get to the right amounts. Gotcha... I mis-interpreted your goal... So far I have used the process in addition to hopbursting to increase both Bittering (probably by 10% or so) AND Flavor and Aroma components with my ultimate goal being two-fold... To shorten my extract boils and to not have to dry hop at all...
  9. "Kealia" post=384463 said:Yeah, I went with the hopstand versus the hopburst. After adding all the LME, etc. I took the wort down to 170 and then added the hopstand/whirlpool additions. I read before that it takes more hops and my goal was to measure the aroma and flavor of those versus a typical 15-minute and 0-minute addition. I like what I got from it from the flavor/aroma department but clearly need more for aroma. I recall that opinions vary on this but the range of utilization seems to hang right about the 30% mark IIRC. In this case I used what I had on-hand but next time I'll try to do it "right". In any case, I'm encouraged by this small test. +1 to what mashani said... You want the wort to be just of boil when you add the hops for the hopstand. They will contribute more when the temp is greater that 170*F... Not sure if you have seen this yet or not so... Here's an exerpt from a BYO article on the topic... Three temperature profiles that seem to be popular among homebrewers are just off boil range 190–212 °F (88–100 °C), the sub-isomerization range 160–170 °F (71–77 °C), and a tepid hop stand range 140–150 °F (60–66 °C). The 190–212 °F (88–100 °C) range will allow essential oils with higher flashpoints an easier time to solubulize into the wort and also will allow some alpha acid isomerization to occur with the best estimates of between 5–15% utilization. Some homebrewers will keep their kettle burner on low to keep the temperature of the wort elevated above 200 °F (93 °C) during their extended hop stands which would better emulate the conditions in commercial whirlpools. A hop stand in the 160–170 °F (71–77 °C) range will basically shut down the alpha acid isomerization reaction and the lower temperatures will reduce the vaporization of the essential oils. Homebrewers can use their wort chillers to bring the wort down to this range before adding the knockout hops or they can add a second dose of knockout hops. The 140–150 °F (60–66 °C) range will once again reduce vaporization of the low flashpoint oils, but may take longer to get the same amount of essential oils extracted. And of course, a link to the article... http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/2808-hop-stands
  10. @ BlackDuck The Ardennes will be as described at 68-72... No worries... I think you will like the results...
  11. Looks good Chris, I use the Ardennes yeast a lot for my Belgian IPA's... It's a great yeast but can get kind of phenolic... When I made my BSA, I used the Wyeast 1388 and it came out really nice, almost Duvel like... But the Ardennes should be good too... What temp will you primary at?
  12. @JohnSand Here's three LBK sized recipes... As Simple As It Gets Saison: Just buy the Mr. Beer 2013 Summer Seasonal... Biere de Saison But you already have the yeast... So how about this... Extremely Simple Saison: Using Mr. Beer ingredients, you could use the Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsener Refill and a Brewmax LME Golden to add a wheat component. The Pilsener is already hopped with Saaz which would be fine... The Saison yeast will do the rest, no need for the Mr. Beer Downunda yeast that comes with the refil, although you could add it while your bringing it all up to temperature as a nutrient for the Saison yeast that you will pitch once cooled... OR... IF you want to just use LME... Here's a link to a very simple Saison that uses LME and a hop boil with an addition at 30 minutes and an addition at 20-15 minutes... Simply Saison: http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/simply-saison-4 Note that I picked a product that comes in 3.3lb containers, and that you would use 2/3 of the Pilsen and 1/3 of the Munich. (Note: You could use Bavarian Wheat LME instead of Munich, or even a half a pound of each... Either is great...) Great News: You can make a second brew using the remaining 1/3 Pilsen and 2/3 Munich, an ounce or so of your favorite hop and your house yeast (like US-05 or whatever)... If you use American 'C' type hops like Centennial, Cascade, Citra etc... You can brew a nice APA or IPA... Use California Common yeast and get a Cali Common beer... Use S-04 and add some fruitiness and additional mouthfeel due to lower attenuation, use Hallertau or Saaz to get a nice summer Munich Ale... Or Goldings or Fuggles to throw it more of an English flair... Happy Brewing!
  13. You know Dave, There's two kinds of brewers... Those who have brewed a Saison, and those who will!
  14. You say you are dry hopping... Are you carbonating as well? If so, no airlock. If you are still in secondary phase, but will carbonate later, then airlock ok.
  15. "losman26" post=381841 said:Here's a report online from the water company in my town, not the water in my particular house, but the whole town.. I do not quite understand it. Page 3 of the PDF lists all the chemicals and what's allowed by law, and what they have comparable If someone could take a look at and let me know how it looks, and what I need to do if anything. Thanks http://www.aquarion.com/pdfs/Greenwich_2012.pdf I'ld brew with it as is... Compared to our city water, many values are similar. Both use chlorine at similar levels as well. My pH averages 7.7, yours 7.4 If you are concerned about residual chlorine, boil your water for 10 minutes before starting, or leave it in thepot uncovered for an hour or so... Either method will remove any residual. I brew with mine (and top off finished wort) stright out of the tap. RDWHAHB
  16. Will do Paul... At 3" in length, it will eat up some volume, and there will be some liquid loss to the contents probably, but for testing flavors and for one-off things, it could be cool.
  17. I hadn't seen this before, but it looks like an interesting way to test hop and other favor additions on a single bottle scale... Thinking of picking up 10 of them and giving them a try... theflavorbomb.com
  18. I works the other way around too... I did a brew yesterday and had a couple of pounds of 2-row that I wanted to use up... So, instead of just steeping the grains I was going to use, I did a PM with the grains and the 2-Row. Since I got some fermentables from that, I simple reduced my extract addition a bit. Done and done!
  19. I don't get a lot of pine out of Simcoe either, more of a resiny character overall, and generally more so when used as a bittering hop. When I use it for flavor and or aroma, it gets more tropical to me... I have not used Chinook, but have seen ot described as having the potential to throw some garlic flavors and aromas... I also find Columbus to be resiny, and a bit more to the pine than Simcoe.
  20. I like Gymrat's idea... If one fits inside the other, you could get a 1/2"-3/8" Barb-Barb and four clamps and join the together ino one large wort chiller... But I still think using one as a pre-chiller in an ice bath is the brst idea. Same connection, just longer hoses...
  21. "charlieb" post=379996 said:So i made a starter this evening. Basically a 1 quart starter. 45 minutes into it the krausen is going nuts. I would expect to see a huge krausen a few hours in, but 45 minutes......wow. No clue why the image is sideways sorry [attachment=13846]image.jpg[/attachment] Rotate your iPad 90* first, so it is in landscape orientation, then take the pic.
  22. "FedoraDave" post=379208 said:As far as using things you already have, sometimes it just doesn't work. You don't use your steak knives to shave with, no matter how much space your razor takes up. Uhmmm... So that's where I've been going wrong...
  23. I use these muslin type sacks... Works well... Product Description Disposable bag stretches to accomodate 1-3 ounces of hop pellets in the boiling pot.
  24. Stuff on the bottom... (trub) Might be stuff on top, might not... (krausen) Might be stuff floating... Probably a bit cloudy at least... (yeast) Definitely less appetizing than it will look once it's done. Relax, have a beer, let the yeasties do their thing... Leave it alone for the next 15 days then bottle!
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