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BigPapaG

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Everything posted by BigPapaG

  1. If I were brewing this, I'ld use a pound of extra light DME instead of the booster... I'd brew it like normal Mr. Beer recipes, adding the hops at flameout. I would use a whole ounce of Czech Saaz, and I would let it steep in the hot wort for 30 minutes before starting the cooling process. It can be covered while steeping. This process, known as a hop-stand, will provide great flavor and aroma, and while the wort remains above 170*F, some additional bitterness... Think 10% utilization... So it should just be enough to add some interest. Then cool and pitch as usual, using the yeast of your choice as previously discussed. YMMV, but these are my thoughts.
  2. Great Job Jim! Enjoy every drop of it, but be sure to keep brewing in the meantime, 'csuse when it's gone, it's gone! The Hat is wise, it is just beginning! Mawwhwwwhwwaaaa! :drinking:
  3. I've been reading 'Yeast' by Chris White w/ Jamil Zainasheff... Pretty heady stuff and a bit more than I need to know about yeast, at least right now... Great reference piece that I will use for years to come no doubt!
  4. "mashani" post=377282 said:I've never even considered trying 34/70 above 60. I just thought "ICK!". I've typically stuck with S-23 or Kolsch yeasts due to my temps. I honestly prefer Kolsch yeast over S-23, the S-23 is a bit weird, and I don't care about the cloudiness, it crashes out in the bottle given enough time anyways. But now you have me thinking I can brew lagers 9 months out of the year instead of 3. EDIT: Does it throw off all sorts of funky smells while fermenting that warm? S-23 is a bit weird, so that is why I don't use it much. As to your question... Yes, I get sulfer and an interesting fruitiness... Let me be clear, it won't be as 'clean' flavor-wise so I would not try this with a 'true' pilsener, but it works in hoppy lagers and beers that are malt heavy like ambers, fest beers... Can you say Munich? I usually let it sit in primary for an extra few days to a week to be sure it cleans up a little. Edit: 75% Pilsen DME, 10-15% Munich LME, 8-10% Wheat (Lme or DME or Steeped) and some American Hops turns out real nice IMHO....
  5. "Trollby" post=377263 said: "BigPapaG" post=377256 said: "iluvbeer!" post=377253 said:Also, if I use a lager yeast will i have to ferment at the lower temps or is it ok at normal ale temps? Al,ost all lager yeasts like to ferment cooler than ale yeasts... Kolsch can be run warmer, as can W-34/70... If you can hold 66-70*F you should be fine with either of those two... Note that the Kolsch yeast will stay cloudy longer and may require cold crashing if you want to clear it up before you bottle it. That type of yeast likes to stay in suspension rather than fall out. I think you mixed up the Fermentis Yeast, S-23 is the Lager yeast that does well upto 75*F W-34/70 isa true Lager and I would not recommend using it above 60*F Thanks Toby, I actually forgot about S-23 as I don't use it much... It would also be a good choice! But no, I use W-34/70 in the mid to upper 60's often with very good results... In fact I'm drinking an IPL that I used it in that IMHO is pretty awesome... I stumbled on the use of it at 68*F on a batch last year that I wasn't able to do temp control on as I wasn't home, and was pleasantly surprised by the results. Normally i would not have used W-34/70 at that temp for the reason you mentioned... But it works! I usually pitch it at 62 (pretty much cold water at my house) and let it rise to 68*F which is y normal house ambient temp (except for mid-summer, when it gets up to the mid-70's in here). It is a bit different at those temps but none the less usable. As always, YMMV. I think of it as an 'off label use' so to speak!
  6. "iluvbeer!" post=377253 said:Also, if I use a lager yeast will i have to ferment at the lower temps or is it ok at normal ale temps? Al,ost all lager yeasts like to ferment cooler than ale yeasts... Kolsch can be run warmer, as can W-34/70... If you can hold 66-70*F you should be fine with either of those two... Note that the Kolsch yeast will stay cloudy longer and may require cold crashing if you want to clear it up before you bottle it. That type of yeast likes to stay in suspension rather than fall out.
  7. I also use about 3-4 quarts per pound of grain... Eyeballing it seems to be fine... I get the water hot first and toss it into the boil pot so I don't have to suffer any evaporization loss... Get the water to about 160*F, turn the heat off and then drop your grain bag in... Cover and steep... Tea bag (dunk) it when done, or pour a quart of 170*F water over the bag while you are holding it up over the wort (this is called sparging) which helps wash the fermentable sugars out into the wort.
  8. I too believe you will be just fine... I add tap water directly to my finished wort all the time to top off my partial boils. My rule of thumb is: All Yeasts in the Fridge (I like the butter tray area in the door, personal preference though, that's all) and All Hops in the Freezer. :borg:
  9. "mtsoxfan" post=377119 said:Ouch Papa..... I'm more of a Bill Nye the science guy kinda learner. Now I'm gonna have to drink a brew to grow them thar brain cells back. :laugh: Oddly enough, it does make sence. now to apply it.... Yeah, hurts my head too! :think:
  10. "mtsoxfan" post=377094 said:What is the science behind short hose = foam? I'll be kegging soon and want to wrap my head around such things. There is some science for this... Assuming that you are pouring at the same elevation or height as the keg: L = (keg_pressure – 1 psi) / Resistance Where L is the required length of hose. This is based on the resistance offered by the type of hose in use, for example: 3/16? ID vinyl tubing = 3 psi/ft 1/4? ID vinyl tubing = 0.85 psi/ft 3/16? ID Polyethylene tubing = 2.2 psi/ft 1/4? ID Polyethylene tubing = 0.5 psi/ft 3/8? OD Stainless tubing = 0.2 psi/ft 5/16? OD Stainless tubing = 0.5 psi/ft 1/4? OD Stainless tubing = 2 psi/ft Note that temperature has an effect on all of this too... So for the above, assume 2.5 volumes of CO2 obtained by using 12 p.s.i at 40* F. If your tap is significantly higher than your keg, which can happen in many commercial installations, the math changes to accomodate the additional resistance offered by the force of gravity. L = (keg_pressure – 1 – (Height/2)) / Resistance A general rule of thumb is you will lose 0.5 p.s.i. per foot of elevation. (So if your tap is two feet higher than your keg, you could lose one p.s.i.) In the interest of full disclosure, math is not my strongsuit... Hence, I learned all this on beersmith.com... Here's the link: http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/
  11. Awesome, way to go! Keep us posted!
  12. "mashani" post=377015 said:Update: Growth phase and initial primary was done at 65-66 degrees. Let it get up to 68 at peak krausen and it settled into 67-68 range for another day. Last night fermentation was mellowing and krausen falling a bit, so I moved it to a shelf where it would rise in the 70-72 range while actively fermenting. Its 71 right now. I'll leave it there for a week and then will move back to a cool shelf where it can sit in the mid 60s for another week. Should be ready to bottle then. At peak krausen, no banana smells noted, due to lower temps. Should have made some nice earthy and spicy background flavors during the growth and initial fermentation. Right now, at 71, I'm starting to get lovely :banana: smells. No sulfur or other foul oders, it's quite pleasant. I'm happy with how it's going, this is exactly what I wanted here, the full spectrum of the yeast profile. I just saw a fruit fly though, which makes me want to kill things. Sounds good mash... I'm with ya' on the fly killing exercise too, although I have not seen one yet this year... But it's early...
  13. "mashani" post=377018 said:Extra light DME instead of booster is good, although if you want a light easily quaffable beer, the booster isn't going to hurt. Just depends on if you want a more authentic euro style pilsner, or something more like a US style. The saaz Mr. Beer sells comes in 1/2oz packets. It's also US saaz, which I don't' find as appealing as actual Czech saaz. I'd honestly use a full ounce of Czech saaz. Or even more. If you want it to be like a real bohemian pilsner, use the DME and you can use a lot of saaz, and if you can use a lager yeast then you will truly be rewarded. I think a kolsch yeast would make really good beer too. The Mr. Beer yeast will cover up some of the true "pilsner" like crispness that lets the saaz shine. +1 My LHBS carries Briess Extra Light Pilsen DME which would be perfect here! +1 on using Czech Saaz if you can... Very nice! +1 on a Kolsch or other lager yeast, I have had success with W-34/70 at 68*F which would work here as well...
  14. If it was a 3.3 lb can and you made an LBK sized batch, you will be fine!
  15. Liquid extracts darken over time, quicker than dry extracts. Might have been an older batch... Also, the act of boiling causes something called Malliard Reactions that cause darkening... Scorching will also darken the wort, but scorching is bad... Very bad... One other thing to consider... Even if a particular extract says it is say... 5 degrees Lovibond (5 SRM), it is typically rated at that color in approximately 1.030 of wort density... Add more malt, which raises the density to say... 1.060 and suddenlt that 5 SRM becomes 7 or 8. No worries though, brew on... Your wheat will fine anyway, just darker...
  16. Good show old chap! :cheers:
  17. That's awesome Dave, keep us posted on your results please... I too have been 'searching' for that special something for my brown and my porter... You might just be on to something here...
  18. Try proping up the front of the LBK with one or two CD cases while fermenting or a day or so before bottling. That should cause the trub to stay away from the spigot and allow for clearer dispensing while bottling.
  19. "Jim Johnson" post=376417 said: "Joechianti" post=376413 said:I'm not much of a recipe person, but as recipes go, this looks okay. The brown sugar doesn't concern me one way or the other. I see it as neither a significant asset nor a significant liability at that amount. What intrigues me more is the yeast in the recipe. Two packs of dry and one pack of liquid almost seems like overkill. Maybe the dry yeast is only gonna be used for nutrient, I don't know. Maybe it's just a way to increase sales profits. But I think either the 2 packs of dry or the one liquid alone would be enough. Heck, even one dry alone might be enough, but two is okay. I think two cans of Octoberfest alone with a pack or two of dry yeast will make a nice beer. If you feel like adding the brown sugar, go for it. Won't hurt anything. Anyway, FWIW, that's just one opinion. jmo but they're put it under the lids at the factory. when the distribuitor puts the HMEs into kits it's not cost effective to remove the dry yeast packs. Yup, and adding it only insures a good supply of healthy yeast so it's not stressed while trying to hit the expected final gravity.
  20. It is very common in Belgian styles to add sugar of some type or another, be it candi sugar, candi syrup, brown sugar or plain old cane sugar. Additions such as this, even as high as 20% of the overall grist are used to add complexity in the case of some of the candi sugars and syrups (as they come in varying degrees of color from clear to dark brown almost black), or to simply provide more attenuation with the overall effect of adding some dryness to the resulting beer. And the kick up the ABV just a little bit as well. It will be fine in this beer.
  21. +1 to containing the condensation... And also any possible overflow from the LBK... Maybe a small, inexpensive cookie sheet will hold the ice packs/bottles and the LBK and catch any runoff...
  22. Just use a pound of it for an LBK, do your steep at between 152-154*F and try to hold it there for 45 minutes instead of 30 minutes and voila! Partial mash instead of steeping. You should get some conversion that way and can include your other steeping grains in the same bag. Just make sure to do your boil for 90 minutes instead of 60 to boil off any DMS precursors from the Pilsener malt... (although with such a small amount of malt, you might not perceive any!) Edit: Pour a quart to half gallon of 170*F water over the grains as you remove the bag and you have 'sparged' the grains, washing the fermentables into your wort. Then proceed with your extracts and the boil as normal, but for 90 min as mentioned. In addition, just because you are not a fan of the Pilsener style, you can still use the Pilsener malt in a variety of styles where ever you might need a light malt... :cheer:
  23. I'm sold on late kettle additions and hop stands using a small bittering charge early in the boil for my pale ales, IPA's and a number of Belgians and Wheats. I really don't want to dry hop anymore for a number of reasons including the introduction of oxygen post-primary, the difficulty in adding and removing to a carboy and the musty grassiness that one gets from some hop varieties (notably Citra). My testing confirmed what mashani and screwy are saying, that you can get gobs of flavor and aroma this way... I have also found that you can reach what I am calling 'the point of saturation' where adding more hops does not benefit you in the least bit... In fact, I have reduced some of my hop charges in my late boil and hop stands. I am finding it challenging though, in determining how much to add in the bittering charge early in the boil... I did a wheat with one quarter ounce of a 10% AA hop (Mosaic) and found the bittering to be acceptable but not quite where I wanted it... apparently I did not get enough out of the late hops to compensate. I will try one third of an ounce in the next go around for that beer. And I fell short on an IPA I did as well using Simcoe and Citra... Suspecting I need to go more by 'gut feeling' tham trying to extrapolate from the numbers the brewing software are providing. I'll be dropping a bit more Simcoe in that one next time. EDIT: I also thnk there are some styles that require their respective, traditional hop schedules and hop types to 'hit' the style correctly. But YMMV...
  24. Looks good Roger... I almost always add a pound of Munich to my IPA's... It enhances the 'Yum' factor...
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