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Everything posted by BigPapaG

  1. How's your thermometer? Maybe it's off and your mash temps are a bit higher than you think...
  2. "yankeedag" post=366865 said:I think I'll just move my keg'nater to inbetween my recliners, and have tap side towards me. I can set the remotes on the Keg'nater and not have to get up...except to make more room for beer. Two word answer for you Dag... And the answer is: 'Stadium Bag'
  3. News Flash: The Hat Hits 10,000 Posts! Film at 11...
  4. Sounds Good! I generally ferment my hefe's warmer as I love the banana, but I'd drink a clove version too!
  5. Looks real nice Rog... Simcoe and Citra play well together... Might want to make a 3-5 minute Citra addition as well to add more nose... Or a light dry hop.
  6. Hi Dave, I like using more than one hop... It adds complexity. That said, I would take the 55 and 50 minute additions and just make them 60 minutes... That will bump the IBU's up a little but you can compensate by moving the 40 and 45 to 35, and the 30 minute addition to 22 minutes and spreading the 22 minute addition out over 10, 5 and 1. I would also dry hop (with an additional 1/2 ounce of both) as it will bring a great hop perception with no additional bitterness. Your beer, your call, just my musings 'cause you asked!
  7. Welcome aboard Joe! This is truly a worthy obsession! Keep posting, ask all the questions you want and read the yellow sticky posts when you find them... The Brewing 101 section of this site os also helpful! Happy Brewing!
  8. Congratulations, you have been assimilated! :borg:
  9. Found this place in Colorado... http://highhops.net/buy-plants.html
  10. I'm about to bottle this week, a Cream Ale done with the Wyeast Kolsch yeast. Primary fermentation was 56-62*F followed by 66*F secondary. Can't wait to see how this turns out!
  11. People perceive hop profiles differently and it sounds like you are getting the worst out of the Chinook and Columbus hops... If I were you, I would drop them and switch to Simcoe and Amarillo, keeping the Centennial and or adding some Citra. I think you might like that better...
  12. I agree with Beer-lord... But I think tasting it at day 3 of fermentation is not gonna give you an accurate representation of what this beer will actually be... Let it go the duration and I'll bet it's quite a bit different on day 21... My opinion is the same as BL's on the sugar too in that it really doesn't 'need' to be there.. It should however help the attenuation a bit and provide a slightly dryer finish.
  13. I did an all wheat DME (55% wheat / 45% barley) with all Mosaic... I used a .5 oz 25 minute addition for base bittering, then hop bursted a .25 oz each at 15, 10, 5 and 1... Then a thirty minute hop stand with another .25 oz Then a .5 ounce dry hop for 7 days after primary. This 5 gallon batch only came in at 30 IBU but was .56 BU:GU I never had Mosaic before... But it seemed like a good way to really experience the hop... And the beet tastes great! I smell Blueberry and pine, others say grapefruit... I taste grapefruit and pine, very Simcoe like which would fit as tuat is one of its parents... It drinks like a pale ale and refreshes like a wheat... Good luck with your new hops!
  14. Most of the commercial hop producers run breeding programs where hops are combined to produce new varieties... The goals are to maximize certain characteristics and minimize others... Things like: Resistance to disease and pests Reduced time to maturity/harvest New and unique bittering/flavoring/aroma characteristics Selective percentages of various acids and compounds, etc... As mashani mentioned, Mosaic was an experimental (HBC-369) that was ultimately named and released into full production. Unlike public domain hops, these hops become proprietery as they are specifically bred, trademarked, and held as proprietary products by the trademark owners. My understanding is that only the best of the best (top 1/2 to 1 percent) make it to limited availability prior to getting a formal name. I suspect if they become popular, they get a name and suddenly 'exist' as a commercial product.
  15. If you could get some Pacifica hops, they might add a lovely flavor/aroma profile for this one... Pacifica Released 1994 by New Zealand Hort Research Centre. Previously known as the Pacific Hallertau, this New Zealand hop has a soft, yet solid bittering quality. Its aroma is described as orange marmalade, citrus and some floral qualities.
  16. "BlackholeBrewer" post=360280 said:I'll let the rest sit out and hopefully get better? Big Congrats on the brew and on your willingness to wait some more... You won't be disappointed, the get better and better! Meanwhie, get another brew started to get a pipeline going... Whatca waitin' for? :cheer: :cheers:
  17. One think to remember though... StarSan is not an immediate sanitizer... It requires anywhere between 30 seconds and 5 minuites of contact time, depending on what you are doing... For homebrew use, the longer of the time frames is recommended by the manufacturer. I find that 2-3 minutes works well for most things, although I generally give bottles closer to 5 minutes... http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/wp-content/uploads/StarSanTech-HB2.pdf
  18. Welcome Aboard! Looks like you were in great hands and got the answers you needed! Happy Brewing and keep posting!
  19. If I may, I would like to add my approach to this question... You have a can of hopped malt extract that, when added to approximately two gallons of water yields a wort with approximately 50 IBU's of bitterness. (LBK size batch) All of the bitterness contributions from the hops have been brewed into the HME so one can assume that if you were able to split the HME in half, each of the halves by itself would be as bitter as the other. However, if you take one of the halves, and add it to two gallons of water, one would think that it would be about half as bitter as if you used the whole can. Problem is you have less malt also, so while the IBU's would be about half, the overall ratio of hop bitterness units to malt would be different so while the IBU's might be around 25, it might seem a bit more bitter than the target of 25 IBU's because there would be less sweetness from the malt to offset it. PUBLIC SAFETY NOTE: I would not recommend using just one half a can of HME in two gallons of water as the ABV would be under 2% alcohol by volume. In order for beer to be considered safe, it is generally accepted that it shold contain greater than 2% ABV to insure that any toxic bacteria are killed off by the alcohol content. If you were to cut the hme in half, and then add the same volume of Unhopped Liquid Malt Extract to the half can of HME to equal a whole can... And used that in two gallons of water, the ratio is corrected and the IBU's would be closer to 25 as predicted and the ABV would be as advertized and in the safe zone. All of the above assumes an LBK sized batch... Consider this: Perhaps your desire to use a half a can of HME stems from your desire to do a one gallon test batch. In this case, you will remember that each half is approximately as bitter as the other on it's own... So, since you would be halving the water, halving the HME and resulting in a one gallon batch, the IBU's would be around the advertized 50, the ABV would be approximately as advertized and in the safe zone above 2% so it would be like it should be, just half as much of it. If you would like more insight into how all this works, you might consider trying some of the free software available to brewers which would allow you to test various scenarios.. You could set the batch size to 2.13 gallons (LBK size batch), add enough liquid pale malt extract to obtain about a 3.2% ABV and enough of one hop type at 60 minute boil to equal 50 IBU's. From there, you can experiment... Cut the water in half and see what happens, or leave the water and cut the malt and hops in half... Or any combination therein... Hope this helps...happy brewing!
  20. "bkstang" post=358489 said:In a day or 2 I'm going to bottle Sunday Morning Coming Down which asks for 1 shot of Espresso or strong coffee to be added at the time of bottling (per 1 l ). This is Mr Beer recipe of course and I would like to make sure that I'm doing this right. Another stout that I was fermenting asked to add 1 can of raspberry syrup at the time of fermenting and I found out that it's better to added 1 week later so this is why I'm asking about the espresso. Is 1 shot/1l enough or too much? Any specific coffee works better? Maybe not add coffee at all. I would like to hear from some of you with experience with this stout. As always, thanks in advance. Here's my thoughts on this... YMMV... If you like coffee and more specifically, coffee stouts, you should be fine with the directions as is. If you can find a similar stout (style or type) that does not have coffee or coffee flavor notes in it, you can use it as a test case. Just open one up and add coffee to taste, measuring as you go. This will let you try different coffees and differen amounts. My rule of thumb for what type of coffe is: Use the best you can, your favorite... If you wouldn't drink it, don't add it. Whatever you choose to do, enjoy it, have fun with it... It's your brew after all!
  21. Somewhere, there has to be or should be a version of this chart, if even in table form, with the other essential compounds and their values... That could be very useful for these types of experiments... For example, one might want to see what additional myrcene does and might want to create a portion pf the wort with the right temp, pH and gravity to efficiently extract more of it to add back into the main wort.
  22. Adding some light or pale LME or DME (0.5-1 lb) wil add body and malt flavor... For the hops, just follow the directions but before cooling and adding the wort to the LBK, if you leave the wort hot for an extra 10-20 minutes with the hops in it, you will get additional hop flavor and aroma. This is known as a hopstand as the hops are added to the hot wort and allowed to stand. BTW, you can leave them in the wort for the whole 14-21 day fermentation period as well. Those would be my suggestions...
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