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About SenorPepe

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  1. I'm as positive as I can be that it was not diacetyl in my beer. I thought I was going crazy until I found a couple references online to this buttery/creamy flavor with Sorachi. But it's not very common and I have no idea how I ended up with it, or how to make it not happen next time. Most people report nothing like it. I'd bet money on it you don't have this problem, just thought I'd mention it.
  2. Absolutely. There are different takes on this but what I do is make the starter plenty ahead of time. When it's fermented out totally I throw it in the fridge. This drops out almost all the yeast (and some other suspended solids) so that you can decant off all the aerated "beer" that you've fermented without temp control, and pitch mainly yeast (and sediment). I'd say mix that sucker up whenever you get a chance.
  3. Russki, I think you commented on my Honey Lemon Wheat (with ~5% honey malt) thread a few months ago. I found the Sorachi gave the beer a weird lemon cream/buttery note. To be honest I don't know if I can comment constructively. I don't know what I'd do different next time. I didn't use all that much flavor Sorachi and I mixed it 50/50 with Centennial. It still came through. I actually found a 3 month old or so bottle and that buttery taste is gone but the dryness with the lemon flavor is kind of pine-sol-y. I think Sorachi is just not for me. Jeez so no advice, just wet blanketude. Good luck!
  4. Hay-oh! Sorry to hear it didn't clear yet. Could still drop out; my cyser took a long time. Glad it turned out well for you. 1.008 sounds great.
  5. Yeah sounds like it might be preservatives.
  6. Sounds good. I've got my fingers crossed for you. I'm usually wary of just letting it go 30 days and hoping for the best. I've never had anything ferment longer than 2 weeks, from 1.100 meads to 1.090 IIPAs, to fermenting straight up lemon juice and sugar. Having to go longer than that means to me that something is not optimal. But I'm sure there are differing opinions on that and maybe I'll just be a believer once I have to deal with such an annoying ferment. In the future, vigorous aeration and stepped nutrient additions should cut a lot of time off your fermentation.
  7. Hmm...I've been doing it all wrong all this time!! But seriously...StarSan=
  8. Did you do anything to it or is it just slowly chugging along all on its own?
  9. Uh...guys? Your beer is "acid".
  10. "bpgreen" post=257382 said:Another option for nutrient is brewers yeast from the health food store. It's basically the same thing as yeast used for brewing except that it has been killed already so you don't need to worry about whether it will start fermenting and give you flavors you don't want. Bread yeast can also be used, but you probably want to boil it first if your intention is to use it as nutrient. The way I understand it, you need to boil first regardless. I don't think the existing yeast feed on other live cells but use fatty acids/sterols/science? from the dead cells only. Obviously my understanding is less than complete, though . But as far as I know, only dead yeast hulls act as nutrition.
  11. +1 to everything Russki said. I love me a nice cream ale, especially single-hopped. This looks great.
  12. 3 weeks definitely won't be too much. FWIW, my method is roughly to take the amount of time it took for krausen to fall, and then leave it in the primary for at least that long again to clear up for normal OG beers. For a 6 day fermentation at 1.044 I'd probably plan to bottle around 14 days.
  13. Boiling yeast might help...I don't know much of the science and I could be wrong but I think that's mostly helpful at the beginning when yeast are trying to synthesize sterols to make their cell walls...or something. The nutrient and energizer usually have DAP, Urea, and some other stuff that is kind of specific. You could try some raisins, although I really have no idea what kind of nutrition that gives. Pitching more, healthy yeast *might* help, but given that you had some vigorous fermentation early, I'd guess that reproduction/numbers isn't really the problem... About aeration...I usually use aeration during fermentation only for higher gravity stuff and usually it's only 6-12 hours into fermentation, but the skeeterpee recipe suggests adding nutrients and some aeration at 1.050 due to how hard the environment is for yeast. It seemed counterintuitive to me to aerate at 1.050 but it tastes fine and many people have done it that way and reported success so I'm not gonna worry too much. But it doesn't make sense to me why that would be helpful if the yeast are done reproducing. So I guess on second thought I shouldn't recommend it since I don't get why it's helpful and also I have never worked with the Mr. Beer yeast. My experience was with wine yeast. Sorry to be confusing! And long winded.
  14. Ok, yeah. Really low pH can be a problem for yeast. There's also probably not a ton of nutrition there. It's really important to aerate well. In fact,f or these kinds of drinks I aerate the hell out of it after pitching and then again after a day or so of fermentation. I also add yeast energizer and nutrients in two additions. It can also help to pitch yeast at high krausen. I recently made skeeterpee (www,skeeterpee.com) and used a slurry from an apfelwein I made, fed with some juice 2 days before I pitched it. That ensured that I had a large number of healthy, active yeast doing their thang. That skeeterpee (basically it's sugar and that RealLemon juice) started fermenting vigorously within 3 hours and went completely dry from 1.066 within 6 days. Anyway, in terms of things that would be helpful for you now: this is my opinion and I'm not an expert in yeast management. But I'd aerate again (especially if you think this might be a problem), add nutrient and energizer if you can and see what happens. If you had good activity at first, it seems to be that the yeast is pooping out some rather than having trouble getting a foothold.
  15. +1 to BIAB. I spent a grand total of about 50 bucks for a 24 qt pot (I could have cut that cost a lot by going smaller and aluminum). With that, I can do 2.5 gallon batches of almost any gravity I would really want. I've been able to do up to 1.085-1.090 all grain, with full volume boils. You'll need an accurate thermometer, hydrometer and paint strainer bag too.
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