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Everything posted by SenorPepe

  1. I'm as positive as I can be that it was not diacetyl in my beer. I thought I was going crazy until I found a couple references online to this buttery/creamy flavor with Sorachi. But it's not very common and I have no idea how I ended up with it, or how to make it not happen next time. Most people report nothing like it. I'd bet money on it you don't have this problem, just thought I'd mention it.
  2. Absolutely. There are different takes on this but what I do is make the starter plenty ahead of time. When it's fermented out totally I throw it in the fridge. This drops out almost all the yeast (and some other suspended solids) so that you can decant off all the aerated "beer" that you've fermented without temp control, and pitch mainly yeast (and sediment). I'd say mix that sucker up whenever you get a chance.
  3. Russki, I think you commented on my Honey Lemon Wheat (with ~5% honey malt) thread a few months ago. I found the Sorachi gave the beer a weird lemon cream/buttery note. To be honest I don't know if I can comment constructively. I don't know what I'd do different next time. I didn't use all that much flavor Sorachi and I mixed it 50/50 with Centennial. It still came through. I actually found a 3 month old or so bottle and that buttery taste is gone but the dryness with the lemon flavor is kind of pine-sol-y. I think Sorachi is just not for me. Jeez so no advice, just wet blanketude. Good luck!
  4. Hay-oh! Sorry to hear it didn't clear yet. Could still drop out; my cyser took a long time. Glad it turned out well for you. 1.008 sounds great.
  5. Yeah sounds like it might be preservatives.
  6. Sounds good. I've got my fingers crossed for you. I'm usually wary of just letting it go 30 days and hoping for the best. I've never had anything ferment longer than 2 weeks, from 1.100 meads to 1.090 IIPAs, to fermenting straight up lemon juice and sugar. Having to go longer than that means to me that something is not optimal. But I'm sure there are differing opinions on that and maybe I'll just be a believer once I have to deal with such an annoying ferment. In the future, vigorous aeration and stepped nutrient additions should cut a lot of time off your fermentation.
  7. Hmm...I've been doing it all wrong all this time!! But seriously...StarSan=
  8. Did you do anything to it or is it just slowly chugging along all on its own?
  9. Uh...guys? Your beer is "acid".
  10. "bpgreen" post=257382 said:Another option for nutrient is brewers yeast from the health food store. It's basically the same thing as yeast used for brewing except that it has been killed already so you don't need to worry about whether it will start fermenting and give you flavors you don't want. Bread yeast can also be used, but you probably want to boil it first if your intention is to use it as nutrient. The way I understand it, you need to boil first regardless. I don't think the existing yeast feed on other live cells but use fatty acids/sterols/science? from the dead cells only. Obviously my understanding is less than complete, though . But as far as I know, only dead yeast hulls act as nutrition.
  11. +1 to everything Russki said. I love me a nice cream ale, especially single-hopped. This looks great.
  12. 3 weeks definitely won't be too much. FWIW, my method is roughly to take the amount of time it took for krausen to fall, and then leave it in the primary for at least that long again to clear up for normal OG beers. For a 6 day fermentation at 1.044 I'd probably plan to bottle around 14 days.
  13. Boiling yeast might help...I don't know much of the science and I could be wrong but I think that's mostly helpful at the beginning when yeast are trying to synthesize sterols to make their cell walls...or something. The nutrient and energizer usually have DAP, Urea, and some other stuff that is kind of specific. You could try some raisins, although I really have no idea what kind of nutrition that gives. Pitching more, healthy yeast *might* help, but given that you had some vigorous fermentation early, I'd guess that reproduction/numbers isn't really the problem... About aeration...I usually use aeration during fermentation only for higher gravity stuff and usually it's only 6-12 hours into fermentation, but the skeeterpee recipe suggests adding nutrients and some aeration at 1.050 due to how hard the environment is for yeast. It seemed counterintuitive to me to aerate at 1.050 but it tastes fine and many people have done it that way and reported success so I'm not gonna worry too much. But it doesn't make sense to me why that would be helpful if the yeast are done reproducing. So I guess on second thought I shouldn't recommend it since I don't get why it's helpful and also I have never worked with the Mr. Beer yeast. My experience was with wine yeast. Sorry to be confusing! And long winded.
  14. Ok, yeah. Really low pH can be a problem for yeast. There's also probably not a ton of nutrition there. It's really important to aerate well. In fact,f or these kinds of drinks I aerate the hell out of it after pitching and then again after a day or so of fermentation. I also add yeast energizer and nutrients in two additions. It can also help to pitch yeast at high krausen. I recently made skeeterpee (www,skeeterpee.com) and used a slurry from an apfelwein I made, fed with some juice 2 days before I pitched it. That ensured that I had a large number of healthy, active yeast doing their thang. That skeeterpee (basically it's sugar and that RealLemon juice) started fermenting vigorously within 3 hours and went completely dry from 1.066 within 6 days. Anyway, in terms of things that would be helpful for you now: this is my opinion and I'm not an expert in yeast management. But I'd aerate again (especially if you think this might be a problem), add nutrient and energizer if you can and see what happens. If you had good activity at first, it seems to be that the yeast is pooping out some rather than having trouble getting a foothold.
  15. +1 to BIAB. I spent a grand total of about 50 bucks for a 24 qt pot (I could have cut that cost a lot by going smaller and aluminum). With that, I can do 2.5 gallon batches of almost any gravity I would really want. I've been able to do up to 1.085-1.090 all grain, with full volume boils. You'll need an accurate thermometer, hydrometer and paint strainer bag too.
  16. The problem does seem like DMS. The lid on during the boil would be the most likely culprit. I, too, don't think DMS is an issue with chilling due to no-chill brewers making DMS-free beer.
  17. Sure you can add it whenever. But I've never attempted to put it in bottles individually. I mix it with some water and sometimes with my priming sugar and bring it to a boil to sanitize it and then add to the fermentor or bottling bucket. About .5 pounds per 2.5 gallons is what I use for cider and sweet stouts so you could divide that out and try it. You probably won't infect those bottles by not boiling...but it's a good idea to boil.
  18. "k9dude" post=256326 said:EDIT: Also how much water did you use? +1. My previous post assumed you used software or BierMuncher's ratios.
  19. I'd guess that's probably not your problem. With a nice, thick mash in an insulated tun I'd bet most of your conversion was done well before 45 minutes. I'd still mash for 60 minutes, FWIW.
  20. "FedoraDave" post=256188 said:I'm currently fermenting my second batch of Lime Cerveza. Didn't skunk the first one, won't skunk this one. The first one turned out great, so I can't see what improvement would be gained by intentionally skunking. :hammer:
  21. First off, congrats on taking the plunge. The first one is never smooth but hopefully it was fun. Good lessons to learn. About the ice bath: I've figured out how to make 7 pounds work for 3ish gallons. The trick, for me, is to start with just the coldest water you can get. I keep the top off and stir like a madman. That 212 degree pot is gonna just destroy your ice immediately but if you use the water to get it down to, I don't know, 190-160 that way, then change out the water and add half the ice, stir again, keeping the ice moving too. That ice goes pretty quick but it's somewhere like 120. Then I change out the water one more time with the second half of ice, stir, and get it to somewhere in the 90-75 range. Depending on how high it is this part can be a bit of a pain. For the last few months I've actually been putting my Better Bottle on the cement patio and it seems to wick away the heat better than anything, including my mini fridge cranked all the way up. Anyway hope that's somewhat helpful. If you just buy two bags of ice, it's a lot less of a pain in the ass.
  22. By the way, I've not been able to cool my wort quick enough using my 3 ice cube trays. I buy a bag of ice to do it. 7 or 8 pounds I think. At this point, I've probably already spent enough to have bought a chiller, but less than 2 bucks per batch makes it easier to bear.
  23. "mnstarzz13" post=256000 said: "Scott838383" post=255997 said:SenoPepe wrote FWIW, I do full volume 2.5-2.75 gallon batches and I don't own a chiller. I can get it down to 80 degrees in 20-30 minutes with an ice bath. Yea, I have done that on occasion. For this one, it was really late at night so I added ice cubes IN THE Wort while the pan was sitting in an ice bath. Hope that wasn't a mistake! I'd not suggest doing this. Unless you are using sanitized containers to freeze the ice in and its in a sealed container with good usable water (boiled if necessary). Freezers can contain possibly harmfull organizims to your beer so open ice cube trays are a no-no. Edit: D'oh! Thought you were quoting me. Carry on. And +1 :blush: Wait, what? I mean ice bath, like ice and water outside the pot.
  24. Yeah, that's about it. The borg can probably help you rig up a recipe.
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