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mashani

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Everything posted by mashani

  1. I do it if: 1) There are still a lot of floaties suspended due to me throwing in hops naked. 2) I'm sure it's ready to bottle based on hydrometer readings. 3) I've hit 3 weeks in the fermenter. At that point, I crash it and then bottle.
  2. skydvr wrote: Edd1619 wrote: Excellent! Thanks for the reply. Just one quick question on the crystal, the number is color so for a light beer, 10L should be used and foe a really dark beer, 120L should be used? Or can you use whatever you want to he a lighter or darker color? With crystal, the number is the color rating - the higher the number, the darker the color. So, 10L ("L" is lovibond, the color rating system) is light, 120L is much darker. I'm sure that there are factors like, how much you steep and for how long, but generally the higher numbers will give you darker beers. Just to make sure it's clear different crystal also has an affect on the flavor. The darker crystal malts provide a more pronounced carmel sweetness then the lighter ones.
  3. I've done both in the past and I can say I honestly couldn't tell the difference in the finished beer, so I just use pellets these days as a wide variety is more readily available at my LHBS.
  4. You didn't really use a pound of hops I hope? Or did you :woohoo:
  5. I'm going to buy a bunch of those I'm afraid...
  6. I've always just pitched Nottingham dry and never had a problem with it. It always feremnents the crap out of whatever I put it in. No sign of mutants.
  7. Kealia wrote: Boiling = hop sack Dry hopping = commando This is what I've been doing, but I do have to cold crash sometimes.
  8. As far as I'm concerned there is only one place in the world where random things getting into your beer is good. Belgium. I know that the wild fermenting critters in my part of the world are NASTY. There is a local brewer who lets their beer get infected with local wild yeasts and lactobacteria. And their beer is just plain nasty. I don't know why anyone buys it, it tastes infected, not Belgian. So my rule would be put the lid on it unless you live in Belgium
  9. DirkDiggler wrote: Eddie wrote: And when trying to recreate a lager recipe, brewed as an ale, you have to use a tasteless yeast (like US-05) and cold condition to get the clean, crisp taste associated with lager beer. Wow, this is very useful. Thank you Eddie Nottingham does a good job of this too if you ferment in the low 60s. It does tend to be pretty agressive at fermenting whatever it touches though, so you will need more malt vs. US-05 to achieve the same body.
  10. Each drop is the same as using 4.16 grams of cane sugar assuming 60 drops per package. So if you plug that into a CO2 volume calculator along with your fermentation temps you should get the proper CO2 volume. I believe this would work out to a bit more then a tsp of sugar, so it's tending towards the high side of carbing.
  11. There used to be a place just down the road from me where you could do this. But it closed some years back. There is however at least one local brew pub here that lets you go in and brew any of their beers on your own in small batches. You can't get totally creative with them, you "pick off a menu. It's not much cheaper then just buying the beer retail, but you can make beers that they arn't brewing at the moment, and it's almost impossible for you to make bad beer. One guy down the road from me brews all his beers there and swears by it.
  12. ronnydobbs wrote: +1 Add some more hops, but I think that you will have a beer you prefer if you like them thicker. I found the Sticky Wicket by itself to be a little in the thin side. Loved the taste of it, but seemed a little watery. So I always add some steeping grains and a little hops and go from there. Actually Sticky Wicket will be my next one that I am brewing up. I have a batch going with a steep of 6oz crystal and 2oz of chocolate malt, about 4oz of DME I had left over that I wanted to get rid of, and added 1/2oz of willamette that I split and threw in @20 and @7. And used nottingham yeast. I'll likely be bottling that this weekend. I did not add the hops earlier in the boil as this is my wifes beer and she likes them malty.
  13. Not exactly sure what to call this, but it's closer to an APA then anything. I made this to use up some buy 3 get one free Amazon HMEs. The Grand Bohemian has amarillo, and the hops in the IPA go well with amarillo, so I went for it. I'm drinking my final hydrometer sample right now, it's done, and it's YUMMY. It's in the fridge cold crashing, will bottle in a few days. The scary thing is that I could drink it as is without any conditioning. It's good! (I love amarillo hops though!) 1 can Grand Bohemian Pils hme 1 can American Devil IPA hme 8oz light DME 0.5 oz amarillo pellet @7 boiled with DME extracts @flameout 1/2pack safeale 05 Filled to the bottom of the Q I threw the hops in naked and left them in the wort, so this is still a bit murkey at the moment, but it will settle out. Don't see too many recipies that use the American Devil, so I figured I'd share it. Unless somehow it self destructs in the bottle I will make this again for sure, perhaps with some steeped grains replacing some of the DME. I have other American Devil experiments in the pipeline, as I do them I'll let you know how they turn out.
  14. I'm a hop head too, but for a porter I'd probably stick with fuggles or willamette or goldings for just a touch more bitterness and to add aroma and flavor... I'd save my cascade (or amarillo, citra, centennial, etc.) for a black IPA that didn't have an abundance of roasty malts in it. But that's just me, who knows it might be good with cascade. It will still be beer!
  15. Can't make up your mind... brew 3 batches at once!
  16. @yankeedag, what calculator are you using out of curiosity? Qbrew and http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe both agree that it's 70+, unless I'm totally nuts... If these are inaccurate, I want better software... [EDIT: They are close to your numbers if I base it on a 5 gallon batch, but I'm making a 2.4 gallon batch.]
  17. @yankeedag, the Citra is 13.5AA, when I calculate your hop schedule I come up with 71IBUs in a 2.4 gallon batch. Seems perhaps too much for a 5% beer. (although I am a hop head and love IPAs so who knows it could be awesome). The wheat beer I like very much is 4.8% and 21IBUs, with loads of flavor and aroma. I'd think at least for the first try I'd like to brew it between 30-40IBUs and keep the schedule weighted more towards flavor. @HYRLUV - we will all just have to brew more batches with different hops! I'm sure they are all going to be good, I love amarillo and citra.
  18. I actually have a similar beer in the fermenter. I'm sure it will be good, I love amarillo. I just scored a can 3.3# can of Muntons wheat extract from the LHBS for $9, and grabbed the last ounce of Citra they had for $2. I think I'm going to steep 8oz of 10L Crystal and continuous hop with the Citra over about 40 minutes at 5 minute intervals as soon as I have an open fermenter. I'm thinking that will make a pretty taste 2.4 gallon batch for
  19. The dark strong winter ale is of similar style. To do it with the IPA kit and dark extract you would need to be sure your dark extract wasn't targeted at bitter/roasty stouts or roasty porters. It needs to NOT be bitter or roasty flavored, or at least not very much - just dark. The flavors of this style are supposed to be clean and hop forward, not driven by the malt or the yeast. The safest bet would be to steep a small amount of dark grains that will give it the color but not impart much if any roasted or burnt or bitter malt flavors. Something like 60L Crystal and a bit of de-bittered carafa or chocolate malt would do the trick. For a Mr. Beer sized batch, maybe 6-8oz total grains. You'd also want to use a clean yeast like Safeale-S05, and add some cascade or amarillo or centennial type of hops boiled for a few minutes after you remove the steeping grains and bring it to a boil for flavor and aroma. Then add the IPA HMEs at flameout and ferement as usual. Might want to dry hop after fermentation settles down. Hope that helps.
  20. I actually have a batch of this very thing that I split between 2 Mr. Beer fermenters conditioning right now. Won't be cracking one of them open for a few more weeks at least, but I sure hope it comes out as yummy as yours looks. It was pretty tasty when I sampled my hydrometer test considering it was all trubby. I have another batch of a coopers "Real Ale" that I hopped up with some cluster that I'm going to be bottling in just a few days. I did a hydrometer reading today, and think it's done but going to wait just a wee bit longer and let it clear a bit more. It also tasted pretty good for a flat bitter green trubby beer. I was skeptical but found that I like the yeast that comes with the cooper kits, and just use it when I have it.
  21. Hi! New to the forum, but not new to brewing. Did AG batches many years ago, also meads and such but fell out of the hobby (x-wife yada yada), and have now gotten back into it although I don't have a lot of time or space - so Mr. Beer fermenters and tweaked kit brews or extract brews with steeping grains have become my main thing. That said I'm going to try small batch BIABs soon when I have a few hours to spend. Nobody did BIAB back when I was a kid :laugh: Anyways, for whatever it's worth, I've been trying to decide what to do with 2 extra cans of IPA and some other HME's I've got laying around, and these are my current plans (which I can't say will be any good mind you but): A variation on Jon_TWR's "Drunken Druid" which is a variation of Mr. Beers "Fallen Friar". Using IPA instead of HCCD, and 1/2oz centennial as the hops instead of cascade as Jon did, and Nottingham ale yeast. Will probably boil the hops for 10 minutes with about 8oz of light DME, then move along as normal Mr. Beer extract batch. Also, I'm pondering mixing an IPA with a Grand Bohemian Pils HME, and adding 1/2oz of amarillo boiled in 8oz of light DME as above. Will probably use safeale 05 in this one. This will either be really good or aweful, only time will tell I'll be happy to post up some beer porn and tasting info when I'm done with these, it's at least 8 weeks out before I'll have either of these done and conditioned enough to try. For whatever it's worth, I like the IPAs straight up with a bit of DME or some crystal steeped and a bit of centennial boiled for flavor and more for dry hopping. I happen to like centennial more then cascade, but cascade would be good here as well.
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