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mashani

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Everything posted by mashani

  1. You can use pink or green peppercorns if you can't find the grains of paradise. It will give you a similar result.
  2. You saw it I thought, you commented on the thread. I basically made more of it, although I went up 5 degrees higher on subsequent batches from what I posted there to darken it just a touch more. http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/18-advanced-brewing-techniques/370666-dandelion-golden-candi-syrup#371309 I forgot how much vanilla like flavor that syrup had, that's going to add some more interesting stuff to this beer, maybe bring out some of the other flavors. Anyways, I brewed this, and it did come out at 1.050, so I'm right where I wanted. Should be a nice summer beer I hope.
  3. Even if you don't want to go all out nuts like I did, just brewing it straight up and replacing the T-58 with Bella Saison or Wyeast French Saison should get you better attenuation and a similar but more complex flavor profile.
  4. @rickbray66 Both will work, but they will leave different results. French saison is less finicky about fermenting things out. It just works as long as you get it into the 70s, where the Belgian stuff likes to get stuck and won't finish unless you get your temps into the 80s or even 90s. French Saison does not make bubblegum, where the Belgian Saison does. It is less fruity in general, lets more of the more spicy flavor come through. Both leave some tartness behind, but the French Saison it's more lemony, where the Belgian Saison it's just more of a "general tartness". I'm not saying that in a bad way, it's just different. If you want to ferment the entire time between 80-100 degrees then Belgian Saison will still make good beer assuming you like bubblegummy saisons like Dupont. It's perhaps the only yeast I'd use with temps that high. I'd not go above 85 with the French, and only that high > 2 weeks into the fermentation, it's best to keep it in the 70s for most of it in my experience. Both can ferment out to crazy 90%+ attenuation levels if they are kept happy. French Saison leaves more mouthfeel at the same level of attenuation. I can not explain why in a scientific manner, but it does. I personally like the flavor profile of French Saison better, but Belgian Saison makes good beer too. I used the Belgian in my sorachi ginger saison and it's quite yummy now that the ginger bitterness has mellowed out with age.
  5. Are you going to batch prime? If so, what I would do is boil them in the water you are going to add your priming sugar to. That will get everything out of them, where you may not get as much "dry herbing" those things...
  6. I don't know what kind of dandelion wine you had JohnDubya, but I'd guess the nastiness was not caused by the dandelions themselves. The dandelion candi syrup was made from a strong dandelion flower "tea" as a base. The tea was by no means nasty tasting, it was slightly sweet, nutty, a little floral, with only a hint of herbal flavor. I would have happily drunk it as tea. So I'm certain that even though the sugar will mostly ferment out that it will leave behind nothing but goodness that will be perfect in a Saison. The syrup has a little bit of caramel and a little bit of fruit flavors added, but those are also good things here. Saisons are what I made that stuff for, although I might try some in an experimental Belgian Blonde or Patersbier. EDIT, btw, I think the dandelion candi syrup would be good in a mild too. Maris Otter nutty + the nuttiness and light floral/herbal/caramel from the syrup, and some 60L and East Kent Goldings and a touch of chocolate malt... I may do that if I have some of this left over in the fall when my temps are more conducive to brewing a mild. EDIT EDIT: Btw, I think East Kent Goldings or Styrian Goldings would be good instead of the Hallertauer in this beer as well. If I somehow end up with an extra can of it and this works out well, I might try that in another batch. Streisselspalt would be good too I bet, I'd probably have used that if I still had some. I don't think I'd sub the saaz. I want the spice/cinnamon from it.
  7. I posted the recipe that I'm going to use to totally destroy / bastardize / demolish / mangle and/or mutilate my second can in the advanced recipe topic. If you have 2 LBKs, and you like hoppy saisons, and you don't like this beer as an IPA, it may be worth a read for ideas on how to frankenbier a second can and get twice as much beer. (I'm 99% sure it's going to make good beer).
  8. At nearly 4 months, this beer is exactly what I wanted it to be. Mmmmmm. The hop flavor and aroma is great, the spicy rye goes great with the yeast, it seems quite dry because of the rye and the sugar, even though it's not really as dry as if I had use French Saison. I like it. I wish I had more Strisselspalt, I'd use it in the other Saison I'm whipping up, but since I don't, Hallertauer is it.
  9. Brewing this tomorrow or Wednesday. This is the plan. Will update if anything changes. Perfect for summer. 4.6 gallon partial volume boil. Ingredients: 1 Mr. Beer Summer Seasonal White IPA 1.5# Wheat LME (Northern Brewer) 0.5# Dandelion Candi Syrup (I made this myself. I posted the recipe here somewhere. I've got 2# of it, may as well use some). 3/4oz 3.0AA Saaz @15 1/4oz 4.2AA Hallertauer @15 Seasonal spice pack @5 (lemon peel and coriander). 3/4oz 4.2AA Hallertauer @2 1/4oz 3.0AA Saaz @2 Danstar Bella Saison Yeast Process: 2.5 gallon boil of the Wheat DME and the Candi Syrup. I'm going to do a 20 minute boil. Hops and spice pack as above @T15, @T5, @T2 Turn off flame Stir in can of Seasonal Summer White Wheat IPA Put on lid and let stand for 10 minutes (little hop stand to get more out of them maybe) Pull hops and spices, top up to 4.6 gallons, cool, split between 2 LBKs. Pitch Danstar Bella Saison Will start it around 66, let it free rise into the 70s... I'm not going to do temp control unless I have to. (have to is if it hits 78 or so, but I doubt it will, my house isn't that hot yet). The OG should be right around 1.050. IBUs should be around 32-33, and it should be around 5 SRM. I would not be surprised if this gets to 1.008 or even lower with this yeast. It chews up anything and the sugar will make it freaking happy. Between the hops and the candi syrup it's going to earthy and slightly nutty and grassy and spicy and floral, with only a hint of light caramel sweetness and some vanilla like flavors too. The yeast will add more spices and herbal notes and some lemony/tart flavors. The spice pack will add some lemon but it will not be in your face, just hints in the background. I see no reason why it won't be tasty, and it makes my second can of that seasonal worth it price wise and time wise. It works great here as a base to give me the bitterness I needed without doing a long boil, and it's wort makeup is perfect for this really, since its so "blah" from a late hop standpoint, I can just whomp on it at will. I look at this is as what that beer should have been. Maybe. LOL. And I will be able to directly compare this to the Summer Seasonal yeah! EDIT: if you wanted to try this and not make your own candi syrup, I'd suggest trying 1/2# of 5L golden candi syrup. What I made is a lot like that, except it's got the nutty/herbal thing added. This stuff: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-ingredients/sugars/belgian-candi-sugar/golden-candi-syrup-1-lb.html I've used it in saisons and it's great. EDIT: Brewed it as above. I got exactly 1.050, so yeah!
  10. I ordered a couple because I like saisons and Wyeast French Saison is one of my favorite yeasts, and that yeast makes equivalent beer - so I don't see how I will not like the result. To order 2 packs of just the yeast from Northern Brewer comes out to close to $19 after you add in shipping (the yeast is $5.50 each). You can get it cheaper from Rebel, but Rebel doesn't have any LME I want to use, and I have plenty of DME and hops, so nothing there for me to "go with". None of my LHBS carry it, nor French Saison, so I have to order it from somewhere. I can make 2 batches with one pack of that yeast, so I consider the extra pack "free", and believe me, I will find good use for it. So I don't feel totally screwed, especially since it's an easy no time spent summer beer I can brew when it's too hot to brew anything else.
  11. Sounds good to me. I personally would use a pound or two of light munich instead of aromatic (and remove some pils to compensate) if I'm doing a mash, but that's just my preference - accomplishes the same thing basically.
  12. FWIW, I agree with T8R/Ranger even though I said to add an ounce of hops or even more. When I talk about adding saaz to this beer, I mean all of it as LATE hops for flavor and aroma, not to increase bitterness. My issue with the beer straight up is I taste as much Pride of Ringwood as saaz. A lot of late saaz fixes that.
  13. I often will go to 2.3 or 2.4 gallons (2.4 is about to the bottom of the Q in Quart). That said, I've massively overflowed LBKs when filled only to 8Q (below the 8.5 line) when using 3787/WLP530. I thought I was being careful LOL. So it really depends on your yeast and wort composition.
  14. "Inkleg" post=378398 said:An unsanitized whisk, that's the best ya got. Left the lid off a chilling pot during the height of pollen season. Actual film of pollen on the wort. Swatted a fly out of the air into another pot of chilling wort. I won't get into the dog and cat hair floating around this place. and those are just off the top of my head. Bottle it after 3 weeks and report back another 3-4 after that. Carry on. I've had a cat butt in my beer. It turned out fine. LOL.
  15. I think it's derived from the same strain as Wyeast 3711 (French Saison). It is what I will be using to turn my other batch of the White IPA into a saison. It's peppery and spicy. Should not make bubblegum or fruity flavors like Belgian saison yeast. It will ferment the beer very dry. It plays nice with hops, especially spicy/citrusy/floral hops (like traditional noble hops and Goldings and the like that are typically used in saisons) and enhances them. Let me put it this way - if Mr. Beer had shipped that yeast with the White IPA then it would have met the 1.008 that was listed. Or maybe even lower. It does not need 80-90 degree temps like Belgian Saison yeast, but it still will make better flavors if you can get it into the 70s a few days after it gets going - and it will ferment out faster. I'd start it around 66, and let it get up to 75 if you can. DO NOT try to keep it in the low 60s. That will just make it take 4+ weeks to ferment out your beer, give you a poor flavor profile, and if you don't wait you will have bottle bombs later. I've gotten 90% attenuation with French Saison in the upper 70s... EDIT: I will warn you - if you decided that you HATE the T-58 and you didn't ferment it in the 70s and make a bunch of banana or funky fruit, you simply just hate the peppery/spicy flavors - then you will likely hate this yeast too. The flavors will be similar but more pronounced and more complex. I use T-58 at cooler temps as a pseudo-saison yeast to replace French Saison in batches with lots of sugar added to help dry them out.
  16. Honestly I wouldn't do much of a hop boil in that recipe. If you want to boil the saaz in the LME that comes with it for 2-5 minutes that would be ok. If you want to just chuck it in at flameout Mr. Beer style that's ok too. That's about it. The reason: Dubbels are not about hop flavor and the amber has plenty of bitterness already. EDIT: If you really want to do something different and "enhance" that brew, then DITCH the LME that comes with it, use it in some other recipe later. Go to your LHBS and find some D-45L or D-90L candi syrup. Use that instead. If using the T-58 just go ahead and use the whole bag of it, that will kick up the abv, but leave it dry, unlike the LME addition. And it will tremendously flavors that will make it seem more like a true dubbel. Just make sure you ignore it for 3 months before you even consider drinking it if you do so. You will be rewarded. If you can't handle a 3 month wait then just use 8oz of the stuff (half the bag), but I'd still suggest you ignore it for 2 months after bottling it.
  17. "Kealia" post=378267 said:mashani, I do like some saisons/farmhouse ales so I guess I shouldn't generalize and say I don't like belgian beers. Maybe it's the lemon that I'm picking up that is turning me off. I tried a soriachi ace a while back and couldn't drink that so maybe I'm not attributing this face :sick: to the right thing :cheer: I'd gladly do a swap with you down the road if you are so inclined, sir. Must be the lemon. I like "A Sorachi Ace" (Brooklyn Brewery) quite much if that's the beer you are referring to. Bone dry and lemony... Everyone's different
  18. "Duff" post=378155 said:All I can say is the infected batches I have had the pleasure of sampling that were not purposefully soured made my want to hurl :sick: . My unintentional Brett-C infected beers were pretty tasty. Not very sour, but pinapple/hay/funky. Which I fortunately like, as in I'd buy a Belgian beer with those flavors and drink it. Some others would not.
  19. "Screwy Brewer" post=378112 said:There's plenty of good reasons for doing a full wort boil, hop isomerization immediately comes to mind, why not just get a bigger fermenter? Yeah, but if your doing PMs or Extract brews with a late addition you can really work around this issue, I've pretty much become an expert at it since I can't boil a 4+ gallon full volume batch on my stove. Although I am topping up pre-fermentation, not post. Anyways, to the OP, as long as you boil the water to drive off as much oxygen as possible and are careful about keeping it sanitary when you do this, AND you adjust your recipe to give you the correct bitterness and hop flavor intended once you reach full volume batch (this takes practice and tweaking to get it the way you want), you can do it. But you can't just brew it straight up and expect it to work out the same. If you are concentrating your wort beyond a certain amount and not doing a late addition, then you will need to use more hops to get the same effect, which is what Screwy was getting at. If you boil with all your fermentables at a lower volume, you also may caramelize your wort a bit more, which can change the flavor and/or make it slightly less fermentable. So ultimately... Is it best practice "by the book"? Nah. Can you do it? Yah... you can do a lot of crazy things and still make good beer. God knows I have. But to get it to work well for you, you are going to have to keep notes and adjust things to fit that process.
  20. "TheGrove" post=378109 said:Actually, I have a Weihenstephan Weizen Liquid Yeast on hand. Wouldn't that give the same effect? More so, if you ferment it warm and you underpitch it. As in do not make a starter and ferment it in the 70s and you will be floating in bananas. If you make a big starter it will become clove beer not banana beer.
  21. Windsor is supposed to have lower attenuation, like some other yeasts like London ESB, and similar yeasts that were selected specifically for this character. They are meant for malty beers, not for dry beers. Which is why they work great in Milds too, you get a 3% beer with body and flavor.
  22. @BlackDuck: Did your krausen vanish after say 2 days? If it was in the upper 60s when you first saw krausen and then you went to bed or to work, it might have gone into the upper 70s for 4-6 hours, fermented like mad, krausen fell back down and temps dropped back down to the upper 60s over the next few hours. T-58 can spike your fermentation temps by up to 10 degrees when it gets into happy mode. It's best to keep it in the low 60s when it's starting to krausen, because it will hit 68-70 all by itself once it gets going and that doesn't take long. That would make banana, and also getting the yeast anywhere above 70 tends to make some funky musty stone fruit like flavors. I do not have banana, or if I do it's buried under all the nelson sauvin I used - but I do have some of the funky stone fruit, but I did that on purpose by raising it into the lower 70s after my krausen fell to finish there. I didn't let it get over 70 until after my krausen fell, I put it on my cold shelf to start. @Kealia: Do you like Saisons Kealia? If I do the 2 LBK 4+ gallon split to make Saison with my other can (most likely), maybe I can put aside a 12ozer for you to try out. Everything about this beer screams "turn it into a Saison" to me. I think it will make a good one, even if it doesn't make a good "White IPA".
  23. You should not have gotten much banana from the T-58 unless you did active fermentation in the 70s, or unless the yeast got stressed out in some way (too cold, didn't pitch enough, it was half dead in the package, ?) T-58 is more of a clove/pepper/spice producer in the low-mid 60s. I do not consider it a yeast to use when I want banana, I go with WLP500 for that.
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