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Everything posted by SmokingTony

  1. I used the other half with another can of classic american blonde and a pouch of booster. I haven't tried that one in a few weeks, last one I tried it was a little green/cidery. Probably because of the malt/booster ratio.
  2. add a can of wcpa and you should have a good ipa
  3. 1 can hccd 1 can classic blonde 1/2 can bewitched red 1 pouch booster 3 packs fromunda fermnent 3 weeks, condition 3 months money.
  4. Hoppy - Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Dogfish IPA Malty - Guinness, Newcastle, or Fat Tire
  5. Pretty interesting. I don't buy commercial beer much anymore, but this is something I might pick up as I am hoping to delve in to cider making soon. http://draftmag.com/beereditor/introducing-the-witbier-cider/
  6. If they are rock hard after 3 days, I suggest opening them and closing them really fast.
  7. Some of my PET bottles have already began to crack from the bottom, so I let them vent. I will probably dispose of them after I empty them. However, I just finished bottling 2 batches into 12 oz glass bottles. I will try out my trub bottle after 2 weeks and then gauge the carbonation from that bottle. I added 1/2 tsp to each bottle, so if the trub bottle is overcarbed at 2 weeks I will consider refrigerating the rest of the bottles after 3-4 weeks.
  8. Is it safe to assume that the trub bottle will likely be the first to blow?
  9. I am going to harvest some yeast in a bit from the bottom of the LBK. All the reading I have done states that the harvested yeast is great for a starter, but does that mean I can't simply pour the harvested yeast into another batch that I intend on starting right after it is harvested and washed? What problems, if any, could I expect if I ferment simply with a batch of harvested yeast?
  10. Dustin wrote: I have loved beer for almost 20 years now but for the majority of that time I really was unable to enjoy beer with food of any kind. It wasnt until recently where I am able to enjoy the typical beer/pizza combos and beer/wings. I dont know what it was before but I think I felt the beer over powered everything and I wasnt able to enjoy the food. I am staring to come around now though and find myself drinking beer with more and more things. Beer and pizza right now is hands down my absolute favorite but that is a typical combo I know. Pizza and pale ale or IPA is so good
  11. I also find that Shiner Bock goes really well with BBQ chicken.
  12. Now you're speaking my language. I absolutely love good food/beer pairings. Lately I have been making a lot of fish tacos, and I find that a cold XX or Landshark are way better when paired with good seafood.
  13. I would let it ferment a little longer than 10 days. After that, just bottle and let it sit for 3 months.
  14. Yes, Dave, you are correct. I am mistaken, as glass jars and mason jars are not the same. Are glass jars not suitable for harvested yeast storage?
  15. I have a mason jar that I want to use to harvest some yeast tomorrow but the lid of the jar smells really bad. I have some generic oxyclean in there with water now, but if the smell doesn't come out, can I still use the jar for storing harvested yeast? I intend on sanitizing the jar and lid, of course, but that smell seems like it aint going anywhere...
  16. You should have let it ferment longer than 1 week, but it seems you got that now. I would just chill them and drink them. Brew another batch and keep learning. Welcome to the obsession
  17. A few questions. Are the nong ciders meant to be drank warm or cold? If they are carbonated, I imagine they are meant to be drank cold, so do you prime them like beer? Is it fine to ferment them in LBKs or do they leave behind a smell? I figured it was wrong since MB sells green kegs with their cider kits...
  18. what has been your fastest fermentation in your LBK? I think I heard Jim Koch (Sam Adams founder) say that his ales take 7-10 days. I usually let mine go for 3 weeks because I don't use a hydrometer, but I was wondering if people that do use hydrometers actually meet their FG in 7-10 days?
  19. Manowarfan1 wrote: What did you do recipe wise for the HCCD? I have 5 cans of this sitting here and girlfriend flying in today. We are going to make a batch or two while she is here so she sees how easy using MrB kit can be (as she is going to be having one delivered to her house while she is out here). Was thinking of just putting 2 HCCD with a little light DME or UME and maybe 1 cup of the booster. Throw in some hops after primary fermentation and see how it turns out. Never tasted the HCCD yet but it seems to be a lot of people on boards' fave HME so it should be tasty. We are going to use some of it to do a fruit based beer (something with either cherry or blueberry) while she is here, but I think we may end up making two. Just wondering how the base HCCD is on its own. Cheers jeff I've found that HCCD pours very easily compared to other MB HMEs and has a beautiful copper color tone. I recently made a 4 gallon batch using 4 cans of HCCD, a 3.3 # can of light LME and a pack of Booster. I think 2 cans of HCCD alone would be a good beer, and you can take it from there as to what you add as far as booster, LME or hops, but I don't think fruit would go too well. Just my opinion. I don't like fruit in my beers except for wheat beers, sometimes.
  20. Bottle them and leave them alone for 2 months! It will be well worth the wait.
  21. I think the red ale would be considered a bit more malty than a yuengling, but in general, they are both considerable balanced. A better comparison would be a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (Hoppy) versus a Guinness (malty).
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