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SmokingTony

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Everything posted by SmokingTony

  1. You need to take it out of the fridge and let it sit at room temp for another month.
  2. I'm curious as to what brand of LME the more veteran brewer's on this site prefer. I have only used Cooper's, but I intend on working with some Briess on my next batch. I doubt I will get around to trying Munton's. Also, do you guys ever use "bulk" LME from your LHBS? It seems like you can buy it that way at a cheaper price per pound, but I get the feeling it is a lower grade than Cooper's or Briess. Can't say I speak from experience though, which is why I pose the question.
  3. It was simple hopped dme kit that you mix with water, no need to boil or anything. I aerated properly before and after pitching. The yeast was about 3 years old, so I will probably just repitch some fromunda tomorrow morning if I don't see anything by then. thanks man
  4. Pitched 9 grams of old generic ale yeast into some old hopped dme at about 70 degrees yesterday. No activity at all yet, so I am pretty sure the yeast was dead to begin with. Should I repitch with a couple packs of fromunda or should I toss the batch?
  5. russki wrote: I can speak from experience about the Wyeast Weihenstephan Weizen yeast - just brewed a Hefeweizen and a Dunkelweizen with it. I actually split the smack-pack between the two, and the results were great. I was intentionally trying to stress the yeast to get more banana esters, and the finished beers had plenty of banana! I personally do not care for WB-06 - used it a couple times, and while the beers turned out ok, they were nothing to write home about. So, if you are brewing two wheat recipes on the same day, as long as they are under 1.060, I say you can definitely split the smack-pack. Otherwise, just use the whole thing. I am down with banana! I think I will give this a try. I also intend on following up with a weizenbock that I will be pouring over the trub, so there should be plenty of yeast cells then.
  6. Is there a big difference between wyeast Weihenstephan Weizen yeast and Safbrew WB-06? Seeing as how wyeast prices are about double safale and contain half as many cells, is wyeast the best yeast available?
  7. Well it seems normal for people to split a pack of 11.5 g safale between 2 MB batches. Can I also split 125 ml of wyeast between 2 MB batches without fear of underpitching? Also, the descripion stated that the 125 ml is 6-8 times more than the previous 50 ml packaging. Can someone please further clarify?
  8. How much is 125 ml of wyeast compared to 11.5 grams of safale? Wyeast #3068XL Weihenstephan Weizen Yeast $7.99 A unique top fermenting yeast which produces the spicy weizen character, rich with clove, vanilla & banana. For best results, ferment around 68 degrees. Now in the expanded 125 ml package (6 - 8 times more yeast than the previous 50 ml packages)!
  9. Leave it alone. Forget about it. Put it in bottles in two weeks. Then, forget about it again.
  10. Trollby wrote: Should be good, OVL is pretty hoppy That is also my thought. Maybe I should just do 2 cans OVL 2-2.5 lbs light LME and a pack of booster. Bocks should be fairly malty and less hoppy, no?
  11. Looking to make some spring bocks. I got a bunch of OVL. Would this be good as a base for a bock? I was thinking 3 cans OVL + 2 lbs of Light LME and a pack of booster split between 2 LBKs. I have fromunda and Safale-05, thinking of going with the fromunda though (probably 2-3 packs per batch). What do you think?
  12. DesreveR wrote: cavalrymsh wrote: I'm sure it's supposed to represent all the fine brews we create but cant share with our Borg brothers... I would at least share my OWN picture of my OWN actual brew even if you couldn't taste it personally. The head on my beers may not look as pretty as the one in this picture, but I'm not about to call any other beer my own. Lame.
  13. Do weizenbocks use wheat yeast strains or do they just contain wheat malt?
  14. bpgreen wrote: SmokingTony wrote: I am ready to make wheat beers. I want to make some weizenbocks too. I don't have a LHBS, so if I want some true wheat yeast I need to order it online and it will come out to over $10 after shipping. Is there anything I can do to make my wheat beers more "true" while using only standard ale yeast like fromunda or safale-05? I have a Cooper's wheat kit, plenty of light LME, a bunch of WWW and OVL, fromundas up the ying-yang, and some safale-05. The fromunda is good for a wide range of styles. It won't be exact, but it would be a better choice than us-05, I think. thank you.
  15. I am ready to make wheat beers. I want to make some weizenbocks too. I don't have a LHBS, so if I want some true wheat yeast I need to order it online and it will come out to over $10 after shipping. Is there anything I can do to make my wheat beers more "true" while using only standard ale yeast like fromunda or safale-05? I have a Cooper's wheat kit, plenty of light LME, a bunch of WWW and OVL, fromundas up the ying-yang, and some safale-05.
  16. Welcome. What's done is done. Think of it this way, good beer is not made out of honey and sugar (booster), and you have a lot of that in your beer. It will take a long while for it too condition, or mellow, out. You will likely need to leave your beer in the bottle at room temperature for 6-8 weeks before it is enjoyable. Leave it in the keg for 2-3 weeks and then start another batch. All in all, it will be about 10 weeks total before your beer is good (enough to drink). Read the Simple Guidelines thread and happy brewing. Don't be discouraged.
  17. mikebolt wrote: Well, like many i'm assuming, I received a Mr Beer kit fir Xmas. Got up this morning and decided to hop right in. Watched all the vid's from youtube on how to make a standard recipe(west coast pale ale) and gave it a whirl. Seemed easy enough, but I don't see any bubbles in the keg, so I'm worried that I may have botched the yeast part Wish I would've found these forums first, lol. Anyway, just wanted to say hello. Really looking forward to getting into this and seeing what I can do. Cheers!!! You probably won't see bubbles (krausen) for about 2 days. It's normal. Welcome! Now walk away from the fermenter...
  18. what you want to add is light malt extract instead of more booster, sugar or HMEs
  19. GWCR wrote: Personally, I would toss one of them in the last 15 minutes of the boil as a yeast nutrient, and then go with a yeast like us-05, s-04, etc, depending on the style of beer you are trying to make. I don't understand, because I figure this would kill the yeast and produce bad flavors.
  20. Sickly wrote: Also wanted to mention I found 3 LBKs with 7 cans of various HMEs and UMEs and several other tools for only $12.00. Ordering it today! Will have 4 LBKs after they arrive. Pretty stoked. what a deal!
  21. I have two packs of this yeast and I think they might be expired. The only information on the packet is below. I'm pretty sure its 3g of Ale yeast, but I don't know what the numbers mean or what strand of yeast it is. It came with two mix packs of hopped DME from the Beer Machine. How can I test the yeast to see if it is still good? If I pitch both packs into a batch, and nothing happens after a few days, can I repitch some fromunda without worrying about off flavors from the dead yeast? ALE 3G 514108
  22. Never met a mean that liked beer that didn't love Guinness.
  23. It's normal for the bubbles to stop, especially if you are using only 1-2 packs of Mr Beer yeast.
  24. patrickb wrote: Sorry for the confusion everyone. I didn't mean to muddy the waters but as beerlabelman alluded, there is not real clear cut answer. The blend of hops used in the MB HMEs has changed at a couple of points over the years. It is a proprietary blend which is why we don't disclose exactly what is in it. We formulated the blend in such a way that if you are brewing to style, any likely hop additions for that style will compliment the overall flavor. Does this mean that all the MB HMEs have very similar or identical hops and are really only differentiated by the color of malt extract or blend of malt extract?
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