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Everything posted by ZeeBeer

  1. Its a traditional step infusion for the Sahti style beers. I was considering trying it but I believe I will just stick with a protein rest and then bring up to 154-155. Do you think a 10 min protein rest would be long enough or should I let it sit for 30 min?
  2. This is a scaled down version from Randy Mosher's Radical Brewing recipe. According to him it takes a lot of Juniper berries as they can be weak in flavor.
  3. I am planning of brewing a Juniper Rye Bock in the next couple of weeks hopefully to be ready in time for Christmas. And I was wondering for the mash if I should use a single infusion, a step infusion with protein rest, or a multistep infusion starting at ~105F-~130-~150- and mash out at 168F. Another alternative would be to use decoction but I am a bit hesitant to try it as I have not done it before. I'm using a 3 gallon cooler mash tun. Here is the recipe stats for LBK size batch ~2.4gallon Grain 6.5lbs Munich 3.75# German Pilsener Malt 1.25# Rye Malt 0.75# Midnight Wheat Malt 0.25# Light DME 0.5# added to boil 1 oz Hallertauer 60 min boil 2 oz Juniper berries in mash 1 oz Juniper berries 60 min boil 1 oz Juniper berries 5 min boil German Bock Lager yeast 1.073 OG; 26IBU; dark amber color
  4. Sounds really good, did you just dump the puree straight into the fermenter?
  5. Welcome to the obsession! Don't worry the first batch usually never turns out but the next one will be great.
  6. Well I bottled up the batch today and I think it turned out really well. I may have overcarbonated it a bit as I was expecting more beer but ended up with 274oz. I was shooting for 2.3 gallons, oh well. It had a strong wheat smell but a nice fruity taste, looking forward to see how it turns out in four to six weeks. I also bottled my barley wine today too. Ended up with 7 liters in the batch due to losses in the trub and transfer to the secondary. Its ok though I filled nine swivel top 750ml bottles and will use them as holiday gifts. It had a great taste to it and at 10.4% ABV should be a knock out at parties. I should rename both of them though as I found a rattlesnake in my garage this morning when I went to start the bottle process. The joys of living in the southwest. Well :cheers: to future brews
  7. I wanted to use fresh cherries. If I froze them a day or so prior to brewing and then pull them out on brew day to thaw would that work? Also I was thinking of washing them in sanitized (boiled) water and placing in hops sacs, crushing slightly and then putting them in the wort at flameout and then into the fermentor would I get the cherry flavor I am looking for? :cheers:
  8. So I wanted to brew a lager for my next batch and my wife really wants some kind of cherry beer. I put together the following recipe but any suggestions would help as I have not done a lager or used these grains before. Partial mash three gallon boil down to MrBeer sized batch. 2.5# Munich (US) 1.5# Vienna (US) 2# Light DME 0.5# Belgian Candi Sugar, Amber (20 min) 1# sour cherries Galena hops - bittering Mt Hood hops - aroma Yeast - German bock lager I was thinking of boiling 1 cup of water with 1 can of cherry fruit and adding it to the secondary after 2-3 weeks of primary fermentation. I have a fridge that I have converted for keeping my LBK in so I do not need to worry about temperatures.
  9. Did you use MrBeer bottles or 12oz glass?
  10. I have been going commando for my last five batches and have had no problems except for my barley wine. I was using whole leaf hops for the recipe had a terrible time with getting the wort into my keg and having a clogged spigot even after filtering. It's in my secondary right now conditioning for three more weeks prior to bottling but I lost a lot of beer and only have 7 liters as opposed to the 8.5 I started with. If I use whole leaf hops again I will definitely use a sac. But as for the pellet the boil usually breaks down the hops that I have had no problem with it as far as particles getting into my bottles.
  11. I was using an old pot covered in a towel but I like the oven idea. I was going to get a cooler but ended up not being able to get one this time. I was looking at using a two gallon cooler as most of the recipes for MrBeer size batches will not require much space, but should I go for a larger cooler just in case. By the way, my LBK is bubbling away nicely although I did have a little leakage out of the spigot. I checked the spigot and it looked ok and I maintain a very sanitized refrigerator where I keep my keg so I am not going to sweat it.
  12. Ran the full hour with 1.5 ratio and hit 1.052 around 65% efficiency. Not bad for my first attempt. Will have to see how it turns out. Temp kept dropping on me and I had to reheat three times. Need to find better way to keep my temperatures up. I was using a towel to cover my tun but still lost heat.
  13. So I am attempting my first partial Mini-Mash this weekend and have a few questions. Reading through the MrBeer FAQ wiki it recommends using a 2-1 ratio. I am using 1.5# 2-row pale and 0.5# wheat for my base so this would require 1 gallon of water. It also recommends only 30mins for mashing. Now this seems like a high water-grain ratio and a short time to mash. Now as this recipe will be using a low amount of grain is the short mash time useful in cutting down on any tannin production and will the high ratio still produce the sugar conversion? Recipe 3 gallon boil to 2.5 gallon for LBK 1.5# 2-row pale 0.5% wheat 1.0# Extra light briess DME 1.75# Wheat LME 0.25oz (6.5%) Saaz 60min 0.33oz (6.5%) Saaz 10min Orange slices 20min Orange zest, lemon grass, saffron 5min Whitelabs American Hefeweizen liquid yeast
  14. So a little over two months ago I got two slimlines at WalMart and tried batch priming for the first time. I used ScrewyBrewers batch prime calculator and mixed it up, bottled and let it go. I cracked open a couple of bottles last week and not only did I have a great tasting beer but it was perfectly carbonated. I was very pleased with the results and plan to batch prime from now on. My earlier beers using bottle priming were usually over carbonated (even had a couple of beers explode on me when opening, although it was the MrBeer black&booberry bock recipe and a lot of the trub got into the bottles). I bottled a porter last month using slightly less sugar to get a CO2 around 2.0 and will try it this weekend to see how it turned out.
  15. Great thanks Is there any difference in the carbonation between the granulated and the brown? Should I use slightly more/less relative to what the screwy brewer calculates?
  16. So I have not been on in a while (several months actually) but I have brewed several batches since then and have turned out some great beers and some that still need a little tweeking, but they were still drinkable. So I am going to brew a dessert porter in a few weeks after my Summer Ale has finished fermenting. My question is for the bottle priming should I use the white granulated sugar or go crazy and try using brown sugar? I know that the brown will add a little flavor/color but it is a porter. If I did use the brown sugar how much should I use? Same as recommended for 12oz bottles? Cheers!
  17. So this is my first attempt at steeping grains and I wanted to make a strong IPA. Here is my recipe 0.5# Crystal 40L 1# Light DME 0.41# Booster (1 cup) 2.42# MrB. ADIPA .25oz Newport (10%AA) @ 45 min .50oz Cascade @ 25 min .25oz Willamette @ 5 min Will dry hop with Willamette after primary Yeast Safbrew T-58 With Qbrew I get OG 1.080 FG 1.020 and a Bitterness of 85, I'm shooting for something around 80. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Any adjuncts or extras to add to the flavor would be great for others who have brewed imperials. Also how long should I let it condition for? I know it should condition for several months probably up to six but I do not want to lose the hop profile.
  18. Oops as my kids would say. My wife did the same thing with one of the kids toy buckets. Why it was on the stove I still do not know to this day. That plastic would not come off no matter what we tried. We ended up having to buy another burner.
  19. So I tried the first bottle after conditioning for two months and it did have a slight off-flavor. A bit difficult to describe not quite a burnt flavor but definitely a sharp initial taste. However it had a great body and after the initial taste it went down smoothly. Not quite as hoppy as I was trying for but I think I will give it another two months to see if it improves. Still learning and will chalk this one down to experience.
  20. I have a friend who swears by Carboys but I was wondering if there is a "best keg" out there. Any thoughts?
  21. yankeedag wrote: packerduf wrote: Bottle straight away!! Edit: Damn, you are fast tonight Yankeedag. it's easy when you don't have a life... bwahahaha.. wait. what? Damn! At least your here to help us noobs out
  22. Do you let the keg warm up to room temperature prior to bottling or do you bottle straight away?
  23. D Rabbit wrote: SmokingTony wrote: jeff7181 wrote: I live in Michigan and I don't have working air conditioning and don't have a basement. It often gets up into the 80's in the summer here and sometimes 90's. How is this going to effect my brew? My second batch (the last one I bottled and drank) turned out well, but it did spend most if it's time around 70 degrees while fermenting. The batch I currently have fermenting is the summer seasonal and I have a second kit of it on the way. I actually started fermentation on a 90+ deegree day. Is this going to negatively impact the quality of my beer? You should invest in a large ice chest and rotate frozen ice packs/water bottles. This is your best bet. Is relatively cheap and works great. You can keep your temps in between 55-70 by using this method.+1 I live in the southwest and after a disastrous 84+ keg day, I started putting my MrBeer keg in my cooler with frozen water bottles and have had no trouble keeping the temps around 66-74.
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