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Posts posted by vmaxept

  1. So, I under carbed a nice C-MRB Patriot American Lager. I used S23 lager yeast washed one time. I suspect while the beer turned out just fine, there was not enough live yeast to carb. I added 74g booster batch prime to 8 qts.

    Followed the proper protocol of warm carb for a week then into the lager fridge at 50 for a month.
    First bottle was light on carb level. I removed all the bottle from the fridge to warm at about 68 for another week. Bottles felt hard but not 'real' hard.
    Cooled one down for a week. No good still low carb level.

    I have 6 qts to re-carb. I decided not implement my normal re-carb process.
    I had an empty TAD keg, that would hold all the beer that need re-carb.
    I added a WAG of 3 tablespoon measures to the TAD keg. Opened each bottle and SLOWLY poured into the keg at an angle to reduce oxidizing.
    Attached the TAD tap and left sit in the bath tub for a week.. It did not blow and is rock hard. Placed in fridge to cool down.
    First draw with no CO2 cartridge, yielded a nice carb level.
    Will draw another pint then attach the CO2.

    Re-carb worked well - again

    This recipe while not great is 'good' A nice lite Lager

  2. Cracked the first test bottle
    Brewed at 8.5 qts a bit over fill.
    OG 1.048
    FG 1.014 at 21 days

    Bottled aged 4 weeks
    Fridge for 3 days

    First impression, not that great. Not bad but about a 6 at best.
    Low carb - my fault only used 73g booster.
    Pour gave little head no lacing
    Earthy aroma
    good mouth feel
    not much hops no after bite, I guess it is balanced.
    After it warmed some the hops were noted like earthy - but that may be from the grain bill they used maybe burnt or roasted?
    Malty but weaker then I expected.
    Drinks smooth and 'soft'
    I think it is more of a dark IPA or a dark pale ale?

    I like the BASIC (new) Porter and Stout much better then this Craft recipe. These 2 were great, Porter is gone it was so good :) Some stout remains. I will brew both again even at list price, but then there is the sales and chits for a deal.

    It is a nice dark beer,
    I would brew again at sale prices only.

    Will test another in a week, then place in the ready to drink pipeline.

  3. Yep, hop spyder works great. I use it when I have more then 1/2 oz of hops to add over multiple drops.

    I also use a small hand strainer (fine mesh) to swish around in the wort during the cooling phase. It removes any free hops and free fines from steep grains. Adds to the aeration better then a slotted spoon plus helps with the faster cool down.

  4. The OP did not say. Could be an original BRA HME or the new Craft Series Bewitched Amber Ale. That one is not really the same, close maybe. I have not brewed that one.
    I assume ? the OP has the original HME.
    Can only get them on the web or yard sales

  5. I am drinking this. It has a nice mild hop taste, maybe a bit bitter with a bite aftertaste. I thought it is OK - not great not bad - a 5. I would brew again. I brewed as a real lager with washed S-23

    I would add a pale or amber LME/UME NOT the wheat. I believe that would not be close to the style of this lager/ale.

    Cascade hops with a 20 to 30 minute boil might be nice or maybe just a 15 minute boil for flavor.
    I would think a hop like Liberty might be better then a C hop.

    As with all disclaimers- its your beer brew what you might like :)

  6. Looks OK to me. Are you doing a hop boil? 8 oz LME good for a hop boil.
    Watch the Columbus hop, it is strong. Can get bitter.

    Depending on the boil that recipe might be quite hop forward.

    Do you have Qbrew? Enter the recipe and tinker with the hops boil to obtain the IBU (bitter value)

    Unless the hops are for dry hop additions only.

  7. Coffee,
    1 use ground in a hop sack. A few oz per LBK. add to wort but not boiled
    2. make a small pot or espresso maker few oz, add to wort
    3 add brewed coffee to batch prime/bottling
    4 cold brew/soak the beans or grounds in water for 24 hrs. add to wort in keg or use at batch prime.

    Object is to find the best way for you to extract the coffee flavor without the bitter oils/tannins.

    I tend to add the grounds in a hop sack at FO in the hot wort. I normally leave the sack/coffee in the LBK
    I also used a French Coffee press with hot, not boiling water. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Pour liquid in wort.

    Vanilla- I use extracts only, added at batch prime/bottling - 1 to 2 oz

    You can find other recommendation in the forum search

  8. Point noted
    Bakers Choc Blocks Ingredients Chocolate with Fat shown at 7 g.
    So yes some added some fat to the beer. However the Choc nibs one buys at Northern Brewer or LHBS are solid chunks of choc..so what makes that any different.?
    Many toss x amount of the choc nibs in the wort while hot or in the keg after initial fermentation.
    Really doubt the slight bit of fat in a 2oz solid block of pure chocolate will cause any problems. Sure has not trashed my 4 recipes.
    Making an issue when there is none.

    Coco powder, nothing but Coco and no fat. So may be better.

    Now a Hersey bar has LOTS of junk in it like sugar, alkali, a long list - I dont eat candy :)
    There is a difference between milk choc and coco/pure choc.

  9. I used Bakers Chocolate block for my Stout/Porter recipes.
    I add 2 oz or 2 blocks to the wort at FO. Mix well until melted. I have used 3 blocks or 3 oz, very strong but good after 2 months.

    I have used Coco powder with one recipe, I added 3 oz. It was a bit bitter for a few months. That one also had too much coffee added, so the bitter could be either.

    I think 2 oz of Coco or dark bakers choc is adequate.

    You can also add 1 to 2 oz of pure vanilla extract at batch prime/bottling.
    That brings out the chocolate flavor.

    As Dave said, Steep grains add flavor, color and body.
    I have used Choc Malt in a few recipes. All are in the conditioning phase.

  10. "FedoraDave" post=296258 said:

    Not to contradict you, Rick, but I've seen pictures of one of the Borg members who sets his LBK on a counter, with the bottling wand attached, and another LBK on a chair or stand or something just below it. The bottom of the wand barely touches the bottom of the empty LBK, and the transfer goes smoothly, with pretty much no aeration. It's just gravity doing the work instead of needing a siphon to start the transfer.

    Yes that is how I do it. I should post some pictures. Works great no tubing mess or accident waiting to happen.

    I had to use boxes to shim the kegs for the correct height.

  11. Are you using the original MRB 2-can HME kit?
    If so then there is really no need to add the LME. Assume you are using both cans.
    I have not used the new LME packs. If you wanted to add one I would use the darker. The malt addition will bump ABV a bit and add some body.

    If you are using one can, then yes you should. However the hop to malt profile is based on 2 TWO cans of HME.
    With one can, and added LME 8oz you will obtain a beer with less hop flavor and in this case a thinner beer due to the lack of malt.
    Original HME 1.21 pnd the LME packs are 8 oz.
    I will assume you are not adding any hops to this recipe.

  12. Well, no , IF it is the MRB auto-fill bottling wand.
    If your batch prime bucket is another MRB keg or a slimline or another bucket with a bottom tap.

    The wand is attached to the spigot tap of the keg or bucket.

    IF you are using a prime bucket with NO tap on the bottom - then Yes you need a siphon and tubing.. I suspect that might be messy. I have always batch primed and bottled from the LBK or a slim-line

  13. Here is one recipe I have working
    High Country Canadian Draft Gold Honey

    1 HCCD
    1# Golden Light Dry DME
    2 oz Cara-Pils
    2.7 oz Honey Malt
    40 oz water Steep at 165* 55 min mini-mash
    YEAST 3 MRB Ori hydrated
    .39 oz Columbus 30 min
    .25 Northern Brewers 15min
    Filled LBK to Q line overfill
    OG 1.041 ADD HONEY 7DAYS 8 oz

    and another - Gone

    High County Canadian Draft + Amber UME
    Amber UME
    Yeast 7g COOPERS Re-hydrate
    Glacier .89 oz 40 min
    Willamette .25oz 5 min
    OG 1.040 @ 68*
    Added water to Q line for 9 qts 2.24 gal
    FG 1.012 Good hop flavor but mellowed over time

    I have 3 or 4 more HCCD recipes I can share if desired.
    I never make the same one twice :)

  14. One trick I use, When the wort gets close to a boil, when it just starts, you see bubbles, I drop the first load of hops. Boil starts with no major foaming action and no boil over.
    As I posted before there is really no need for a DME boil, unless you are adding hops.
    I suppose one might argue you need to boil to kill off infection. If that was a concern, you could boil the water cut the flame add the DME and re-heat up to the boil.
    I have not had a problem with my no-boil extract brews.

    Most of my DME additions are made to the warm water then heat until the wort just starts to boil. I add the HME, mix with the wort, keep flame under a boil then FO.

  15. Should be a nice strong lager. Of course you know the hops will mellow over the lager period. Should smooth out fine.

    I assume you rehydrated the yeast? .

    I never made any of the original Seasonal's.

    I have an other OVL lager on deck. I might try your ferment /D-rest/short cold second lager cycle.

    I normally go to a cold crash at 40* for 3 days after D-Rest

  16. You are good to go.
    No need to do a DME boil if you are NOT using any hops.

    Only need a boil for hop additions, to state it another way.

    Many times I never do a boil if I am not adding hops. I heat the water around 200, add the extract DME LME and HME, mix, chill, ferment.

    There is also no need to boil the DME. The so called hot break only applies to AG. DME already has been boiled past the 'hot break' when the extract mfgr made it.

  17. To help prevent leaks with my LBK, I sanded the seam of the 2 halves of the LBK under the spigot washer area. There is a raised area then that can leak.

    That really helped.
    The second fix is to use two of the rubber gaskets.
    One inside and one outside.
    Install with the taper to the keg.
    Do not need to make the tap very tight - just sung will work fine.

    I have no more leaks.

    Been to Canada one time - Manitoba way out in the boonies for a big Endurance Race.. it was a real PIA getting the business into Canada then back to the USA.. never went back

  18. Hi Red--- Welcome
    The new C-MRB recipes are quite different. All malt. No 'real' need for booster anymore.
    The OVL is actually quite good 'as is'. So brew it with no additions and find out if 'you' like it.

    I make the recipe with exactly 2 gal of water, not filled to any line on the LBK.

    I made it as a real lager with lager yeast. Quite good.
    I suspect when brewed with the CMRB Ale yeast it will be good also.

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